First look at Drolet's new EPA 2020 wood furnace...

[usernametaken]

I guess I read wrong brenn. I could have sworn it was secondary but being as knowledgeable as you are, I'm sure you're right. Thanks for setting me straight. Either way, I think I need to crack mine open a bit....

 

[brenndatomu]

Don't get me wrong...I really don't know the air passages on a Max...but I am pretty sure the intake damper controls primary air...

 

[usernametaken]

When it comes to wood stoves/furnaces, I'd be my life on your facts sir... LOL

 

[brenndatomu]

When it comes to wood stoves/furnaces, I'd be my life on your facts sir... LOL

You give me too much credit...and I think you may have a gambling problem, or at least have a high risk tolerance!

 

[usernametaken]

What's that pain I feel in my chest?? Wait... what did I say.... Uh oh.....

 

[brenndatomu]

The reason (I stand to be corrected) the VF100 burns the same wood without issues is that its combustion is much more controlled.

No, you are right...monitored and actively controlled.

 

[salecker]

kind of hard to insulate?
View attachment 269783

Adding insulation to the roof is easy enough,replace the windows with Quad pane units.You could reinsulate the walls but you would lose the pan abode look.
And what is that cool yellow thing taking up the driveway in the back?

 

[Highbeam]

Damper is primary air...I know of no wood furnaces that control secondary air...can only think of one stove that has any control of the secondary air...but even it is tied to the same linkage as the primary air, so no individual control.

The one woodstove that controlled secondary air with a linkage no longer does that, it switched to a barometric system with the 2020 regs. There are at least a few stoves with variable secondary air supplies but I don’t think any are user controlled. They all use bimetallic coils or draft strength devices. The theory being that you don’t want much secondary air unless the fire is chooching hard.

 

[aswr]

Adding insulation to the roof is easy enough,replace the windows with Quad pane units.You could reinsulate the walls but you would lose the pan abode look.
And what is that cool yellow thing taking up the driveway in the back?

roof actually has been done. The cool yellow thing is a underground long hole drill

 

[aswr]

I use a paperclip to keep our damper open a hair. When its brutal cold, I don't need to use a clip because the damper cycles with the home. I can tell you from experience that the drier the wood the better.

thanks opened up the damper a hair and turned the t stat down and now she gasses like she should.

 

[aswr]

Adding insulation to the roof is easy enough,replace the windows with Quad pane units.You could reinsulate the walls but you would lose the pan abode look.
And what is that cool yellow thing taking up the driveway in the back?

 

[usernametaken]

thanks opened up the damper a hair and turned the t stat down and now she gasses like she should.

Good to hear! That give me inspiration to do mine. I would have it done already but I have a outside air kit that covers the damper and I don't want to disassemble it hot. It's supposed to be in the low 50's on Christmas so maybe I'll pull it apart then. What did you use to hold yours open... the paper clip hack?

 

[aswr]

i

Good to hear! That give me inspiration to do mine. I would have it done already but I have a outside air kit that covers the damper and I don't want to disassemble it hot. It's supposed to be in the low 50's on Christmas so maybe I'll pull it apart then. What did you use to hold yours open... the paper clip hack?

i just adjusted the chain a bit to open it up a hair. as per instructions load the furnace turn the t stat to call for heat for 10 min and then turn t stat off so it doesnt call for heat.

 

[brenndatomu]

i

i just adjusted the chain a bit to open it up a hair. as per instructions load the furnace turn the t stat to call for heat for 10 min and then turn t stat off so it doesnt call for heat.

Bette watch that like a hawk...adjusting the chain is probably too much...it only takes a very small amount to do the trick...and even then sometimes needs to be undone when its really cold out (stronger draft for some) and you are loading the firebox clear full...things can get really hot really fast if given too much air.
Somewhere here I seen someone had replaced their chain (or a portion of the chain) with a small turnbuckle...infinitely adjustable!
Actually, one of the slickest mods I've seen is when the Amish replace the damper motor with a bimetallic spring...that worked surprisingly well! (those "non-electric" units are set up to gravity heat too)

 

[usernametaken]

I think he might be OK with it. When it's super cold, my damper never closes anyways. As long as there is a call for heat, the damper is open... which can be indefinitely when the temps are in the single digits. I remember the micro turnbuckle ideas too. I think a member posted pics in my original fine tuning thread when I started here...

 

[aswr]

Bette watch that like a hawk...adjusting the chain is probably too much...it only takes a very small amount to do the trick...and even then sometimes needs to be undone when its really cold out (stronger draft for some) and you are loading the firebox clear full...things can get really hot really fast if given too much air.
Somewhere here I seen someone had replaced their chain (or a portion of the chain) with a small turnbuckle...infinitely adjustable!
Actually, one of the slickest mods I've seen is when the Amish replace the damper motor with a bimetallic spring...that worked surprisingly well! (those "non-electric" units are set up to gravity heat too)

when I say a bit i mean a little bit. no more than the width of a paper clip

 

[aswr]

when I say a bit i mean a little bit. no more than the width of a paper clip

i just turned it a little to open it up. I didn't cut a link or anything drastic like that.

 

[brenndatomu]

when I say a bit i mean a little bit. no more than the width of a paper clip

Gotcha...thought maybe it was 1 chain link...

When it's super cold, my damper never closes anyways.

Good point...and exactly why the "temp controller" mod came about...because "super heating" your chimney for 2 hours is stoopid

 

[usernametaken]

I'm just not seeing that high of plenum temps without it open... This is why I need to try the clip mod to see if secondaries alone can keep me over 140 and keep the blower on a higher setting. As per factory setup, you'll never see blower speed 2-6 with the damper closed no matter how perfect your draft or dry your wood is.

 

[brenndatomu]

Yeah it seems like the Max is just a different animal that the Tundra for sure...I never once saw plenum temps at 140 with it...120 was more typical...maybe 125.

 

[usernametaken]

Max needs a minimum sustained 140 plenum temp to kick the blower above speed 1. 150-160 is ideal and will keep you at speeds 4-6 for a while and really make some heat. Speed 1 is fine for a 30 degree day when you are just maintaining. However, if you wake up in the single digits and the temp has dropped inside overnight, you'll need some recovery and speed 1 won't do much.

 

[brenndatomu]

150-160 is ideal and will keep you at speeds 4-6 for a while and really make some heat.

I bet!

 

[usernametaken]

What are fossil fuel plenum temps? Must be higher than that. I'm not an engineer but PSG seems to think that's the most efficient temp and have dialed it in there. Most of the guys I talked to there don't even want the KIP lower than 135.

 

[brenndatomu]

I can't use that much heat...this house is only ~3000 sq ft...and that's if I include the basement...insulation has improved from "poor" to average in the time that I have owned it...and soon to be "above average" after I complete the attic insulation upgrade here soon.
Not doing that so much for the heating season (the VF100 is almost "too much" in warmer winter weather as it is now) but more so for improved comfort of the upstairs in hot weather...

 

[brenndatomu]

What are fossil fuel plenum temps? Must be higher than that. I'm not an engineer but PSG seems to think that's the most efficient temp and have dialed it in there. Most of the guys I talked to there don't even want the KIP lower than 135.

My oil furnace will creep its way up to 135* max if it runs for a long time (like if I allow it to run after the whole house is 4-5* less than our normal indoor temp)