First Timer 201 Turbo....install help and questions. Lots of Pics.

[prtp3warrior]

I appreciate all of the assistance I have gotten from you all so far. Before I fire it up I would like an internet inspection. Tell me what you think.

 

[prtp3warrior]

The area I am most concerned with is where the chimney goes through the ROOF. This was done by the previous owner of the house and there is ZERO clearance. The Pipe is metalbestos. Should I be concerned about this?

 

[prtp3warrior]

Another concern is where the Black stove pipe is close to the support beam at the ceiling. That distance is 17 inches. I have ordered a pipe deflector to solve this. What do you think?

By the way. Here is a link to my owners manual. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/28582/

 

[RocketMan]

You are not ready to light a fire yet! The roof clearance to the pipe should be a minimum of 2" all the way around. The 6 to 8 adapter should be inserted into the stove flue, not on the outside (creosote flow). I think the framing for the ceiling support box should also have some clearance, framed for the size of your attic insulation shield. Be safe!

 

[prtp3warrior]

That is why I am here. The 5 to 6 inch adapter will not fit into the flue. I agree with you but it absolutely wont fit. I am pretty sure I have the insulation shield correct. It is just not secure in that pic. The metal base attaches to the frame for the ceiling support. I am concerned about the roof penetration. I am scared to start cutting on the roof.

 

[begreen]

Definitely need to provide proper clearances with the roof hole. There must be at least 2" complete clearances to any combustible from the class A pipe.

You always want the crimped end down and going into the fitting below it. The adapter does not look correct. There needs to be a 125mm to 6" round adapter on the stove collar. Then the 6" round will insert into that adapter.

Hard to judge stove clearances. What is the distance in the rear from the stove to the drywall? Is that a floor protector wall shield with a 1" airspace behind it?

 

[prtp3warrior]

The floor protector will have a one inch space behind it once I mount it. When I cut out the roof to allow the clearance, how should I secure the chimney?

 

[prtp3warrior]

Okay I have removed the wood around the chimney. It now looks like this. The problem is that my rafter is still only about 1.25 inches from the pipe. Am I going to have to cut my rafter and support or is there something I can use to protect it?

 

[webby3650]

I am not sure what would be considered acceptable protection for your roof truss but I do know you most certainly don't want to start cuting on your trusses!

 

[Highbeam]

To gain clearance from that roof rafter you need to move the whole chimney away from it. Yes, that means your ceiling cutout is in the wrong place. The ceiling support box needs to be moved 1" in the direction which will provide more clearance to that rafter. Good thing you cut the roof decking out to 3" instead of 2", you'll need that extra inch.

Don't be tempted to lean your chimney. It'll look silly.

 

[prtp3warrior]

Can not be moved. It will leave a hole in the roof and the cieling. can I place a 2x4 with steel plate reinforcement for about a three foot span then remove that portion of the truss?

 

[prtp3warrior]

Can I put half round a steel plate between the pipe and the plywood with some airspace?
I will go on my roof soon and see if maybe the storm collar can be shifted.

 

[prtp3warrior]

Just so other do it yourselfers don't read this thread and order the wrong thing like I did... It is called a Ceiling support finish kit NOT a Ceiling Support Box. A ceiling support box is for runs through less than 3ft of attic space. For six feet, which is what mine is, you need the finishinf kit and an attic insulation shield. I can get the part numbers if anyone wants them.

 

[prtp3warrior]

To gain clearance from that roof rafter you need to move the whole chimney away from it. Yes, that means your ceiling cutout is in the wrong place. The ceiling support box needs to be moved 1" in the direction which will provide more clearance to that rafter. Good thing you cut the roof decking out to 3" instead of 2", you'll need that extra inch.

Don't be tempted to lean your chimney. It'll look silly.

You are right. there was no other way without cutting trusses. I moved the whole thing over two inches and cut out a little more of the roof.

Been burning for almost two weeks and my 201 is keeping us toasty. A little finicky to use but a really great stove. Thank you all on these forums for all of your help. By the way. When I ordered the 6" Stove pipe connector for the metalbestos chimney from Ace Hardware, Selkrick would only sell them in twos. If anyone wants to purchase one you should contact Robinson's Ace Hardware in Charleston TN. It is on their shelf now and I would bet they would cut you a deal. They are really great folks.

 

[rafael207]

HI there!
Pardon me changing the subject... Somebody directed me to this thread because of my question.
I am cleaning up a 1981 jotul turbo 201 wood stove. it is a double combustion stove Here is my question. on the ceiling of the bottom chamber there is a hole that has been formed, from what I can see, many years of use. it is ridged to the touch. After some research i found out that this stove is not catalitic. I am not sure what this ceiling layer is, or if it is operating correctly.
thanks for your help
r

 

[prtp3warrior]

I am not sure what that stuff is but you are right it is rigid. When it is not all torn up it feels like some type of rock. If I remember in the back of my stove there are screws of some type holding it in place. This would lead me to believe it is replaceable. Can you tell if there are screws holding it in? If so, I think you had might as well remove it. Perhaps then you could take it to a hardware store or something and find out what it is. This stove is difficult to find much info about but I will tell you that I like mine alot so keep at it.

 

[rafael207]

thanks I am going to try and remove it.Hopefully it comes out easy.

 

[rafael207]

Hey there.
I thought i would post an update for those who might care.
I was not able to find any replacement parts for my stove. I repaired all of the cracked firebrick, replaced all of the gaskets, and patched the hole in the bottom chamber with new firebrick and mortar. I fired up the stove yesterday, and it it working like a charm. I'm glad that I kept with it because this stove is great!

 

[prtp3warrior]

Hey Rafael, that is great. I am liking mine as well. I wish the fire box was a little bigger but I like the fact that the stove itself only takes up about two square feet of floor space. Have you read the instructions I posted about how to fire one up? It seems complicated but after a couple of times it gets easier. Remember that when the handle is all the way down is when you are giving air to the secondary chamber. When it is all the way up (just hooked), you have all the air going to the box. When it is in the middle, only the primary valve gets air.

Congratulations!

 

[rafael207]

I have not read those instructions yet, But I will do so. I did notice that the door handle was affecting how fast the fire was burning, but didn't know the exact reason. I found that the fire was easy to get going.
I hear what you mean about the fire box being too small. Luckily I knew the size of it before I chopped my wood for the winter. but the stove still puts off some heat. My house is 75 degrees right now I am looking forward to saving money on propane.
thanks for the help
r

 

[prtp3warrior]

Great. Handle up and valve open= all air into fire box Handle Down = Valve to fire box, secondary air (handle slot) to secondary burn chamber (only do this after fire is really pumping, secondary burn should last between 30min and an hour, if it dies out sooner, lift handle all the way to reignite) Handle in middle position and valve open = no secondary air supply anywhere (this should be done after secondary combustion has stopped) You can now close the primary valve to conserve your charcoal burn. Hope this helps!
Again, congrats.

 

[Gooserider]

Some messages have been deleted from the end of this thread in the interest of keeping the peace... They did not contribute useful content to the thread, and I hope they will not be repeated....

Gooserider (in MODERATOR mode)

 

[irover]

You are not ready to light a fire yet! The roof clearance to the pipe should be a minimum of 2" all the way around. The 6 to 8 adapter should be inserted into the stove flue, not on the outside (creosote flow). I think the framing for the ceiling support box should also have some clearance, framed for the size of your attic insulation shield. Be safe!

this is a 125 mm flue, and it is conically made to fit inside a 125mm tube. So it should actually go inside. Sealing compund should be used.

 

[calcifer]

Hello,

This Message is in response to Rafael207

I also have a Jotul 201 - and yes, it's kinda crazy how little information there is about these stoves -

I just picked one up and very carefully took it apart. Seems to be in slightly better shape than yours - from the photos you took..

To answer your question about the baffle in your stove- the one that has a hole in it- It's made of about 3/8" or 1/4" thick cast iron.
There was some reddish stuff painted on it - it seems - I'm going to contact Jotul about that one. Just on top of it is a 1" thick, dense fiberglass barrier.

My funny shaped baffle is still in one piece - but it's beginning to crack. Other than that - my stove is in great shape. Very good quality construction. Every other part is in good shape aside from lots of broken lightweight refractory brick. I'm going to get some more of those from my local pottery supplier.

I was thinking - before mine cracks and falls apart - what if I take a mold of it - make some wax copies - and have an iron foundry pour some brand new ones? Is that something you'd be interested in? I don't know how much this would cost - but if we found some other 201 owners who were interested in a group buy - it might just make the whole thing affordable. Anyone who's overfired their stove would be likely to need one of these.

I'm going to contact an iron foundry in Seattle and ask about pricing for a piece that size.

The whole stove is very easy to take apart with at 10 mm long socket, or socket extension, and a 10 mm wrench. Also needed is a 14 mm wrench for one set of nuts. Keep organized if you dissasemble yours. Draw a diagram, and make a note of where all bolts came from - there are about 5 or six different lengths. A few have nuts, a few. My stove was so well assembled, most of the sides didn't come off once the bolts were undone. I had to tap them gently with a 2x4 to break the gasket seals. I'm going to ask Jotul about a reccomended gasket sealant. I'd like to use what they used originally. Hopefully it'll be something I can squirt out of a caulking gun or something to make less of a mess.

I still need to clean out all the seams with a screwdriver, and purchase appropriate sized fibreglass rope for certain parts (like the top, which simple lifts off). I'm going to use auto spark plug anti-seize for lubricating all the bolts. Hopefully this will make it just as easy if it ever has to come apart again.

You can unbolt the glass discs in the "eye" in the middle of the stove, and clean the innermost disc. I very gently used 1000 grit wet dry paper and some spit to remove brownish grit. Be careful not to cut yourself on those glass discs (i did). Make sure to replace the little fiberglass spacers too.

Good luck with your stove- and please let me know if you have any more questions-

- David

 

[irover]

yes, i would like to see pics of a disassembeled 201! Mine is still too good to take apart