We just purchased a used one and wondered if we should install a damper in the stove pipe. And also when and how do you use the draft controls on the front of the stove? Does anyone have a manual for this model stove?
Fisher Grandpa Bear Type IV
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A Grandpa IV should have glass doors with primary air dampers on the sides and two slider type air controls on the front for air wash over the glass. If that is what you have, I can give you instructions on how to use the air controls. Every chimney is different, so air setting varies by chimney and weather conditions.
A flue damper is a chimney control. It is used to slow the velocity of rising exhaust gasses when the draft is too strong. It is not stove specific, it depends on the chimney and connector pipe configuration. It is required on a double door Fireplace Series with solid doors since they come with a screen for fire viewing and the flue damper becomes your only air control when in Fireplace Mode with doors open. It is not required with glass doors unless you have an over draft situation that you need to slow the draft. Care needs to be taken if you install one, since you can slow the draft too much slowing the velocity of air entering the glass air wash. That causes soot on the glass.
Everything for a manual is the same as the III except air wash. The IV has larger glass openings and a different glass shape than a III with glass. Same stove body. The air control is the only thing a little different than the uploaded III manual for solid doors, which has no air wash.
A flue damper is a chimney control. It is used to slow the velocity of rising exhaust gasses when the draft is too strong. It is not stove specific, it depends on the chimney and connector pipe configuration. It is required on a double door Fireplace Series with solid doors since they come with a screen for fire viewing and the flue damper becomes your only air control when in Fireplace Mode with doors open. It is not required with glass doors unless you have an over draft situation that you need to slow the draft. Care needs to be taken if you install one, since you can slow the draft too much slowing the velocity of air entering the glass air wash. That causes soot on the glass.
Everything for a manual is the same as the III except air wash. The IV has larger glass openings and a different glass shape than a III with glass. Same stove body. The air control is the only thing a little different than the uploaded III manual for solid doors, which has no air wash.
That is the stove we have- with the glass doors. Was wondering how to use the air wash controls. Not sure how they work. Thank you Coaly for your good info.
Open front sliders fully as well as the side intakes a couple turns when starting. As larger pieces catch, close side intakes as you would if the draft caps were the only intakes. This allows air wash constantly over glass to prevent smoke particles from sticking. Instead of keeping draft caps open a half turn or more for desired heat output, you can close them fully and use only air wash for intake air when up to temp. Overnight, the air wash should give enough air for desired heat output (unless extremely cold) or you may need to close them partially if it burns too hot. Since the chimney is what makes the stove work, no one can tell you the exact amount of air needed for the output required at any given time. That comes with practice.
It depends on strength of draft, since the chimney creates a low pressure area and air pressure outside of the stove PUSHES air in by atmospheric pressure. The greater the pressure differential, the more air and the higher the velocity rushing in to clean glass. Opening the side vents allows the pressure to equalize and prevents the air flow needed across the glass. When you understand this principal of getting air into a stove, you can see how to make the path of least resistance, the main air flow in. With the proper chimney, only air wash is needed from the front to support combustion. An oversize chimney or extreme amount of connector pipe can require more air from the side vents. So chimney and connector pipe configuration is critical for any stove.
It depends on strength of draft, since the chimney creates a low pressure area and air pressure outside of the stove PUSHES air in by atmospheric pressure. The greater the pressure differential, the more air and the higher the velocity rushing in to clean glass. Opening the side vents allows the pressure to equalize and prevents the air flow needed across the glass. When you understand this principal of getting air into a stove, you can see how to make the path of least resistance, the main air flow in. With the proper chimney, only air wash is needed from the front to support combustion. An oversize chimney or extreme amount of connector pipe can require more air from the side vents. So chimney and connector pipe configuration is critical for any stove.
Thanks for the information on the air wash Coaly I have to wire brush the stove and refinish it before we bring it in the house. We can"t wait to try it.I will post pictures when it is done
If this is a "Brass and Glass" model, consider using Stove Bright Metallic Brown. They were available in that color as well and look really sharp.
Coaly the Stove Bright Metallic Brown does look good,but we decided to stick with the Satin Black. It looks good I will be posting pics soon.I am building a hearth now and then can install the stove. When I installed the side vents,I noticed the left one was not contacting the stove body evenly. Have you heard of that before? I heated up the strap of steel that the mounting bolt for the vent goes,and gave it a twist, now I have pretty good contact. Also in one of your previous post's I saw you mention a mounted blower on these stoves.I do have the shield that directs the air up and over,but no blower. Does that mean this stove had one? Or did they come with that shield anyway.It also has a heavy heat shield behind it. Can I use the stove with just the heat shield only? Thanks for any info
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