Fisher Honey Bear? New house old stove

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Mitchyd91

New Member
Jan 4, 2026
2
Wernersville PA
Just moved into a new home and this beauty was installed.

I have done pellets before and dabbled in coal but never wood.

This unit seems to be in great shape with no perceivable issues other than needing the chimney cleaned out.

Can anyone share pointers on burning with this stove? I’ve done a bit of research and they say it’s inefficient but for me that is no concern as it will be used for our basement when hosting friends.

Any tips on how and when to adjust the flue or doors, etc?

Thanks all for the help. Have lurked for a while but never posted or made an account!



[Hearth.com] Fisher Honey Bear? New house old stove
[Hearth.com] Fisher Honey Bear? New house old stove
 
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The front sliding dampers are air wash over glass. Keep them wide open and open turn dampers which are primary air a few turns to start the fire. As wood catches, and temperature comes up, slowly close primary for output wanted.

Close air wash slightly if it burns too hard, even with primary closed. You will learn how much you can close them to prevent accumulation on glass.

Since all venting systems, outside air temperature, altitude, atmospheric pressure, wood moisture content and species vary, no one can give you exact damper settings that will change as weather and fuel changes.

The main thing is knowing what the controls are and how they affect the fire and form creosote.

After some experience, start closing the exhaust damper. With exposed liner you can measure temp with a IR thermometer for a good idea of how much you can turn down air to maintain a minimum burn that prevents creosote formation.
 
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The front sliding dampers are air wash over glass. Keep them wide open and open turn dampers which are primary air a few turns to start the fire. As wood catches, and temperature comes up, slowly close primary for output wanted.

Close air wash slightly if it burns too hard, even with primary closed. You will learn how much you can close them to prevent accumulation on glass.

Since all venting systems, outside air temperature, altitude, atmospheric pressure, wood moisture content and species vary, no one can give you exact damper settings that will change as weather and fuel changes.

The main thing is knowing what the controls are and how they affect the fire and form creosote.

After some experience, start closing the exhaust damper. With exposed liner you can measure temp with a IR thermometer for a good idea of how much you can turn down air to maintain a minimum burn that prevents creosote formation.
This is wonderful thank you.

Am I right in assuming that as I learn, don’t mess a ton with the exhaust damper until I refine the other two adjustments?
 
Using well seasoned wood well help for a wonderful burning experience.
Nice insert.
 
This is wonderful thank you.

Am I right in assuming that as I learn, don’t mess a ton with the exhaust damper until I refine the other two adjustments?
Yes. It’s easy to over use a flue damper. That is a chimney control to slow the rising exhaust gases, reducing draft. Depending on height, and mostly insulation around liner, you may need more heat left up. Chimney specs are needed to give you more information on its use.
 
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