Fisher Install

[CrustyRT]

Well the title says it all. I need pre-install advice. What better time to get it

The stove was given to me by my brother-in-law that knows I'm short(full-time student with a stay-at-home wife/mom) on cash and long on a do-it-myself woodpile and a do-it-right-myself attitude. I have access to a splitter, chainsaw, lots of fallen hardwood and am able to use a screwdriver/hammer/circular saw without jamming them through my forehead. The stove is what I think to be a Baby Bear. It has a cast(?)single door with "Fisher" embossed on the front. Its foot print is approximatly 18 1/2" x 33" with the 6" opening for the chimney on the back. It looks just like the one for the patent without the top that opens.

My home is a 1300 sq/ft ranch with the living room in the center. I intend to put it catty-cornered in a corner of my living room that one wall has a window 45" from the corner. I'll be putting up/down as much cement board/tile as needed. I will be installing whatever is necessary to make the stove safe for my family of four. This is where the experts(hopefully you guys/gals) come in. How far does the chimney need to be from the wall? How far from the wall does the stove need to be? I saw 36" on the site some where but I was wondering about installing in a corner and heat shielding for the walls. How big a surround? Will tile and backer board be enough of a heatshield? I realixe that if I put the stove far enough from the wall, I could line the room with firecrackers and be ok but I really don't want to have to look around the stove to watch MotoGP or live in a house with a woodstove and firecrackers lining the walls!

Yes, I know it is old(1975? per patent info) and inefficient. Yes, I know it needs an additional door gasket to get a controllable burn. It may even need a baffle plate and some other stuff but what better time to find out than BEFORE I cut a hole in my roof...

With my tongue in my cheek and thanks in advance, I'll be here nightly all week. Don't forget to tip your waitress.
Crusty

 

[CrustyRT]

I did the insulation last year. I'll tell you what is silly. Paying for lp when I have dead wood for free. Thanks for the booklet advice, to the batcave...

 

[Shane]

Like enord said get the NFPA 211 code book from you local fire dept or building inspector and that will give you all the answers. I apologize I no longer have access to a copy or I'd cut and paste for you. Generally though 18" from single wall stove pipe to the combustible. Can be reduced with UL listed heat shields to 12". 36" from stove to combustible can be reduced with properly constructed wall heatshields to 12".

(RANT WARNING) Why is NFPA211 & the international codes not available online for free to anyone who has the sense to look at it and read it. I understand that they have to make money back on printing etc. and that by law your building inspector has to make a copy of the code book available, but wouldn't it be logical to think that code compliance may increase if the important info were made readily available to all online easily downloaded?

 

[BrotherBart]

Free to read right here until your eyes roll back in your head.

http://www.nfpa.org/freecodes/free_access_agreement.asp?id=21106

 

[Shane]

Wow, wish I'd gone off on that rant a while back. I could never find that when I worked at a hearth store thanks BB. It would be even better if they were printable etc. But that's better than nothing.

 

[CrustyRT]

Free to read right here until your eyes roll back in your head.

Anybody got the Cliff notes?

 

[begreen]

Old stoves need a lot of clearance and you have a tight corner install. I think the window may be an issue unless it's getting covered with a heat shield. If it has a sill projecting into the room, even that might not work.

Drawings of the layout and a picture or two will help.

Section 12.6.1 is what you want to start with. Table for clearances is on the next page.