I have been working on a Grandpa Bear Type IV stove, had it all apart,wire brushed, and re-paint.When I reassembled the side air controls,I noticed one had a gap, where it didnt contact the stove body. I was able to heat the strap of steel,where the retaining bolt,passes thru,and have fairly good contact now.Is that common on these stoves?It seems like they should fit close.Also I saw on a old thread, where they came with a blower.My stove has a shield on the back where the air is directed up and over. Do I need that shield,if I dont have a blower?It also has a heavy heat shield on the back.I did build a tile hearth for it this weekend and will install it this week. I will post pics then. Thanks for any info
Fisher Stove air vents
- Thread starter Homesteader23
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
The blower was optional, it didn't come with the stove.
The shield is part of the UL listing since it was tested with it. So yes, it must remain on the stove to be considered UL Listed and use the clearances given on UL tag. removal would require it to be installed as an unlisted appliance, technically no longer allowed by code under the ICC, or International Family of Codes.
The air damper support for the draft cap normally doesn't warp, but it may not be built to exact specifications since you describe a strap of steel across the hole like the cast iron door design. Here are pictures of a normal air damper support;
You could cut a piece of angle iron such as used as brick supports to add across the existing piece to prevent warpage. Double nut the draft cap mount bolt through the new and existing support. Final adjustment is a slight bend of the bolt where it mounts to stove so you have adjustment to rotate bolt until draft cap seats flush on stove body. I mount the bolt without damper installed and tweak it with an adjustable wrench just a degree or two so it can be rotated to the position needed to allow perfect contact.
The shield is part of the UL listing since it was tested with it. So yes, it must remain on the stove to be considered UL Listed and use the clearances given on UL tag. removal would require it to be installed as an unlisted appliance, technically no longer allowed by code under the ICC, or International Family of Codes.
The air damper support for the draft cap normally doesn't warp, but it may not be built to exact specifications since you describe a strap of steel across the hole like the cast iron door design. Here are pictures of a normal air damper support;
You could cut a piece of angle iron such as used as brick supports to add across the existing piece to prevent warpage. Double nut the draft cap mount bolt through the new and existing support. Final adjustment is a slight bend of the bolt where it mounts to stove so you have adjustment to rotate bolt until draft cap seats flush on stove body. I mount the bolt without damper installed and tweak it with an adjustable wrench just a degree or two so it can be rotated to the position needed to allow perfect contact.
Thanks Coaly,the pictures you posted, of the angle iron supports,are what I was calling a strap.I didnt think they would warp,probably just never adjusted properly.I heated up the flat area where the bolt passes thru, and tweaked it a little. I think it contacts pretty good. I placed a dollar bill behind it and tightened it,it pulled out with resistance.One spot I had to put two bills in to make it tight, I thought that might be close enough.Thanks for the info on the blower.I will finish my hearth today, and install the stove this week.We have had a few cold nights already this Fall.Am looking forward to firing up this stove.Thanks for your good info.
I just was sizing up my stove pipe,for my Fisher GrampaBear,and I am not sure if I need a special starter pipe,to start from the stove outlet.An 8" pipe fits in the stove easy enough, but there is an air gap where the pipe connects to the stove outlet.When I bought the stove,it was hooked up to the chimney.It was just stove pipe,I did not look that close at the time,to see how tight it fit.Maybe there was a gap then too.Any advice is appreciated.
Top or rear vent? The top vent needs to be inside the stove connector to prevent any condensate from leaking onto the stove top. A rear vent can use a Tee with the side opening OVER the outlet which fits better if it is going straight up. This allows condensate to drip into cap at bottom of tee and gives you a clean out when cleaning chimney.
All straight pipes are crimped a little different depending on manufacturer. If you have one crimped too small, you may have to cut the crimp off and hand crimp yourself very little just to get it started and use the full size pipe in the outlet. I prefer the Dura-Black connector pipe sold at Home Depot since it has a larger ring above the crimp and they are available in 2 and 4 foot lengths. Perfectly round, die crimped accurately with a good fit. They are more expensive, but heavier and last much longer.
Older stoves than yours used OD sized pipe for the vent welded to stove, so they required more crimping down smaller or an adapter that was later made for it. Never saw one I couldn't over-crimp down to fit myself. Others like to use an adapter if they don't have a good hand crimper. You will probably need that where you cut any pipe anyway.
All straight pipes are crimped a little different depending on manufacturer. If you have one crimped too small, you may have to cut the crimp off and hand crimp yourself very little just to get it started and use the full size pipe in the outlet. I prefer the Dura-Black connector pipe sold at Home Depot since it has a larger ring above the crimp and they are available in 2 and 4 foot lengths. Perfectly round, die crimped accurately with a good fit. They are more expensive, but heavier and last much longer.
Older stoves than yours used OD sized pipe for the vent welded to stove, so they required more crimping down smaller or an adapter that was later made for it. Never saw one I couldn't over-crimp down to fit myself. Others like to use an adapter if they don't have a good hand crimper. You will probably need that where you cut any pipe anyway.
Coaly Thanks for the speedy response.I should have mentioned,it is a top vent.Inside the flange on top of the stove,there is a weld line,it looks like it is there for a purpose.But it makes a gap for the stove pipe.Maybe it would not leak,but it looks like it would
If the seam was angle cut or ground, the weld will have enough penetration to grind smooth with an angle grinder if you have one. If it is only surface welded you can't remove the weld bead. There are ways to put an indentation in the pipe to match the obstruction too. Cut a saw kerf the width of weld bead in the edge of a 2 X 4 longer than the pipe where the indentation needs to be. Insert board through pipe and support ends so it is solid. Using a blunt chisel or tool the shape you need, hammer the pipe into the groove making the groove you cut to conform to the obstruction on the outside of the pipe.
A little Rutland Stove and Gasket cement at the joint, or high temp silicone if you have it can make it leak free if you feel it's necessary. I wouldn't be too concerned about that small of a leak into the pipe. It will not leak smoke out, it will allow air IN, which when excessive cools the chimney.
A little Rutland Stove and Gasket cement at the joint, or high temp silicone if you have it can make it leak free if you feel it's necessary. I wouldn't be too concerned about that small of a leak into the pipe. It will not leak smoke out, it will allow air IN, which when excessive cools the chimney.
Coaly,I think I will try your idea on the indentation,on the stove pipe.Thats a good idea.Thanks for the help.
When cold working metal, you're stretching it, so the use of a rounded punch works best by indenting a small area and working down the groove instead of trying to bend it in all at once. Just remember, as you work the metal where you go too far, you've stretched it, making it larger and it won't go back. Maybe practice with a piece of old flashing or tin can until you get the groove and tooling right.
Thanks for the metal forming tips Coaly.I will try on a scrap piece first,like you said. Thanks again
Similar threads
