Fisher Stove ID

[Andyman]

this is for sale on the local CL, at least the door is a Fisher. Ad states:

FISHER WOOD STOVE OR FURNACE

thanks for any info.

 

[coaly]

mtn man on this Forum has seen a second one like it.
Someone must have made a few, probably using a Fisher door. Looks like they were a licensee to get the door and may have had Bob's permission. The ash fender is formed like Fisher drawing. Since it was built for a cement floor with shorter than 6 inch legs it can only be installed on anon-combustible surface.
Dick Higgins along with two friends, Jerry Hilperts and Nicky Parrish were the licensees in Post Falls Idaho. (the licensee in that area)

I have a "Furnace" listed on a royalty payment sheet but never saw a brochure with one shown. Local ads in archives in that area may show them advertised.

Fabricating of a certain model was not mandatory, so like "The flame" or TF-88 that was made in only two places and the XL only made in Utah, it could have a been a model no one else made.

The added bi-metallic thermostat that replaces the right air damper was a common accessory not sold by Fisher.

 

[Andyman]

Thanks, It is bigger than I need for my shop, but I was curious.

 

[Donna299]

Hello: i am new here. I would like to identify the Fisher wood stove that I have but I'm unable to find any identification numbers on it anywhere. It is very difficult to get to the back of it because it sets in a corner and of course, is attached to what was once a brick fireplace. I do know that on the front it says patent pending. I don't know if that means anything or not but it looks like it could be anywhere from 10 years or more old. Any help would be appreciated. It has the trees and the stars on the front like most of the Fisher's do. Thank you.

 

[coaly]

Welcome to the Forum;
Trees and stars tell me it's a 1976 if it has a '76 on the right door large star or a '77 if it only has stars with no '76. Most Fisher stoves do not have the trees and stars. That was only the first year the double door stove was introduced.
All Fisher Stoves are far more than 10 years old. Manufacturing ceased in 1988.

Here is a thread that will identify your stove with the history of the invention of the double door stove;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/fisher-grandma-and-grandpa-bear-details-fireplace-series.69448/

I can identify it with much more information if you post a good picture of the front with doors closed.

 

[Mpoirier83]

Hi there, I’m new to forum and am very impressed with the knowledge I’ve seen here! I just purchased a mama bear second hand and would like some info on where and when it was made, unit #0800-062 is all I can read on the sticker on the bottom of the ash catcher and the tag is unreadable on the top of the catcher. It has the double sheet metal on the bottom and single on the back. I think I got a great deal on it a 400 anything you guys know would be great help! Thank you

 

[coaly]

You're describing a Series VI by the shields. (if they are integral with the box and not bolted on) Rear shown below;

There are other models with shields, with the older flat top door making it a Series II, so I really need more information.

That model shown (VI) was UL Listed and should have a UL tag on the rear shield, or at least rivet holes where the tag was. That model would have an arched door at top, bent corners without angle iron on the corners that becomes the legs at bottom. They were available with black door, nickel or brass plate. Many were painted over, so if you have an arched style door at top and it is all black, wipe the raised portion around the edge with lacquer thinner or metal polish to see if it is a plated door before using anything abrasive on it if it needs refinishing!
And welcome to the Forum!

 

[Mpoirier83]

You're describing a Series VI by the shields. (if they are integral with the box and not bolted on) Rear shown below;

View attachment 229904 There are other models with shields, with the older flat top door making it a Series II, so I really need more information.

That model shown (VI) was UL Listed and should have a UL tag on the rear shield, or at least rivet holes where the tag was. That model would have an arched door at top, bent corners without angle iron on the corners that becomes the legs at bottom. They were available with black door, nickel or brass plate. Many were painted over, so if you have an arched style door at top and it is all black, wipe the raised portion around the edge with lacquer thinner or metal polish to see if it is a plated door before using anything abrasive on it if it needs refinishing!
And welcome to the Forum!

Thanks coaly! It is the old flat top door , no nickel plate but the aluminum knobs in front were painted over and I’m planning to refinish and repaint the whole mama . pics are before restore full restore pics too come.

 

[Mpoirier83]

 

[Mpoirier83]

Sorry, that second pic is not my stove, believe I saved that as reference. This is mine thanks

 

[coaly]

It was made in 1978 or '79 and has older style draft caps.
It does not have shields which you were calling double sheet metal on the bottom and single on the back. Shields are sheet metal, the stove body is made of 1/4 inch thick steel plate. It should be all single wall 1/4" steel plate with 5/16" top. I don't see sheet metal or shields on yours.
It is a Series I, only arched top doors after 1980 were plated. It is not a UL listed stove, so 400 is a bit much. But if you can't find any reasonable, I guess that's what you have to pay.
The second picture is a stove I sold with the added baffle. Make one and add it if you're going to use it. You can't go by that picture since that stove only had one course of brick up the sides. The bricks I added on the sides to support the baffle plate are already in yours.

The tag on top of the ash fender was red and warned HOT while in operation. Nothing you don't already know.

 

[Mpoirier83]

It was made in 1978 or '79 and has older style draft caps.
It does not have shields which you were calling double sheet metal on the bottom and single on the back. Shields are sheet metal, the stove body is made of 1/4 inch thick steel plate. It should be all single wall 1/4" steel plate with 5/16" top. I don't see sheet metal or shields on yours.
It is a Series I, only arched top doors after 1980 were plated. It is not a UL listed stove, so 400 is a bit much. But if you can't find any reasonable, I guess that's what you have to pay.
The second picture is a stove I sold with the added baffle. Make one and add it if you're going to use it. You can't go by that picture since that stove only had one course of brick up the sides. The bricks I added on the sides to support the baffle plate are already in yours.

The tag on top of the ash fender was red and warned HOT while in operation. Nothing you don't already know.

Ouch, the guy was quick to take the 400 Too. but I plan on using this stove forever so not a big deal, as for the stove not being UL listed I think I read a post from you on another thread that I would just need to install per code and most insurance companies would be ok with it, I plan on using a double walled pipe tee coming out the back and adding that plate baffle before use....is there supposed to be a double course of firebrick along the back of the stove? Lots of questions and I’m sorry I really appreciate all your help I want to get this right the first time. Thanks coaly!

 

[coaly]

As far as being legal, it would have been grandfathered in an original installation. Codes change and are updated constantly, such as your state adopting the 9th version of the MA building Code on January 1, 2018. So when you read comments about codes, they are state and sometimes locality specific. There are some states that do not require UL listed appliances and others that also require EPA Certified stoves for emissions. (not yours, yet)
For safety, installed to the NFPA 211 Standard for unlisted stoves is fine. For legality, since your state adopted the International Family of Codes, (IBC) the Mechanical Code governs solid fuel and venting. That Code no longer allows any unlisted appliances to be installed.

 

[Mpoirier83]

As far as being legal, it would have been grandfathered in an original installation. Codes change and are updated constantly, such as your state adopting the 9th version of the MA building Code on January 1, 2018. So when you read comments about codes, they are state and sometimes locality specific. There are some states that do not require UL listed appliances and others that also require EPA Certified stoves for emissions. (not yours, yet)
For safety, installed to the NFPA 211 Standard for unlisted stoves is fine. For legality, since your state adopted the International Family of Codes, (IBC) the Mechanical Code governs solid fuel and venting. That Code no longer allows any unlisted appliances to be installed.

Thank you very much for your time and knowledge , I suppose I will need to talk to my building inspector and see what he has to say. Thanks coaly