I am trying to figure out if a flue damper will benifit me at all. what exactly will it or is it supposed to do for temp of stove,wood consumption,burn time,heat output. I have 30' of chimney and a real good draft,the stove is vented out the back and has a heat sheild in place, I only have 6 " of space between the stove back and the slate tile on the wall " within min clearance with shield" If I were to put in a damper it would be verry close to the stove and I might also have to cut a small hole in the side of the shield to be able to operate it all this considered, is it worth the effort ? Thanks, Darren
flue damper or not ?
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Can you post a pic of the pipe / wall setup out the back? My Heritage is piped out the back too, w/ minimal clearances (tho admittedly bigger than yours since i used single-wall pipe & no heatshield). I have a flue damper and find it absolutely essential to running the stove. Perhaps you can get some more room if you move the stove out a few inches off the wall? maybe you have a little more clearance available from the front door to the edge of your hearth?
This is a hot topic lately - many people in agreement that the damper is critical. It slows down the draft to the point where combustion gases linger long enough to actually heat the firebox. If your EQ isn't blasting you now, I'm willing to bet that byt adding a damper, you'll dramatically improve your temps, burn-time, and heat output (all higher) and wood consumption (lower). I've written this a lot lately - I cruise with it full closed, but it is not a 100% sealing damper - it fits loose and has bypass holes cast into it. So even full closed, it's about a 80% restriction at most (if that).
This is a hot topic lately - many people in agreement that the damper is critical. It slows down the draft to the point where combustion gases linger long enough to actually heat the firebox. If your EQ isn't blasting you now, I'm willing to bet that byt adding a damper, you'll dramatically improve your temps, burn-time, and heat output (all higher) and wood consumption (lower). I've written this a lot lately - I cruise with it full closed, but it is not a 100% sealing damper - it fits loose and has bypass holes cast into it. So even full closed, it's about a 80% restriction at most (if that).
Ed, I have no room to move the stove foward on the hearthpad so that is not an option. My temperature on the stove top can get to 600* if I am not carful So heat is not a problem either. will a damper help hold the heat in the stove longer ? I think you answered that already. Wood consumption and burn time will greatly improve and that might be the deciding factor. I may just have to do it and see how it goes, what have I got to lose ? Thanks, Darren
With a very tall stack you may benefit from the flue damper. What I don't understand is why any change in the wall shield. The flue damper handle's axle can be mounted parallel to the wall shield with the handle sticking out to the side. There should be no interference with or violation of the wall shield.
The heat shield on the stove actualy has sides on it that come verry close to the bacck of the stove. Darren
You seem reluctant to follow through with installing the damper despite asking about the benefits.
It is *likely* to assist with overdraft situations to help control stove temps... and from lurking here on the forum, it seems clear that Hearthsones should NOT be overfired routinely.
You'll never know for certain if the damper will help unless you try it.
FWIW, I put my own stove damper as close to the stove outlet as possible.
Peter B.
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It is *likely* to assist with overdraft situations to help control stove temps... and from lurking here on the forum, it seems clear that Hearthsones should NOT be overfired routinely.
You'll never know for certain if the damper will help unless you try it.
FWIW, I put my own stove damper as close to the stove outlet as possible.
Peter B.
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I think most of the other Equinox owners here have installed dampers to slow these huge stoves down some. 30' chimney is pretty tall and could really get away from you on a cold windy day.
carboncreator said:
Got it. Can you describe this connector pipe? Is it single or double-wall? If single wall, is it like a 12" piece that goes about an inch behind the heat shield and about 4" into the wall thimble?
Also, is there an outside air kit on the stove?
The conector pipe is single wall I think , it looks just like black stove pipe from the stove to the wall thimble. its good to know I can install a damper so close to the stove without a problem I think I am officialy off the fence and am going to do this thanks for all who helped. Darren
I cannot comment in the usefulness of a flue damper for your model, but I've found it helpful for my Vermont Casting.
I installed one about 6 weeks ago in an effort to have a secondary air control. I've found that damping down the flue quickly slows the burn and allows me better control when the temp rises above 550. Mine is also loosely fit and has some bypass holes. For me it was control and safety rather than increased heating times I have noticed that once I have a good bed of coals going and the primary turned off, I am able to damper down the flue to 2/3rds and still maintain 500 degrees.
I installed one about 6 weeks ago in an effort to have a secondary air control. I've found that damping down the flue quickly slows the burn and allows me better control when the temp rises above 550. Mine is also loosely fit and has some bypass holes. For me it was control and safety rather than increased heating times I have noticed that once I have a good bed of coals going and the primary turned off, I am able to damper down the flue to 2/3rds and still maintain 500 degrees.
The main thing you need to watch when installing is that the damper butterfly isn't hitting any screws as it goes through it's rotation. But it sounds like you can squeak one in without violating the stove shield. My other concern is arm burns. Usually a flue damper is something you open up before opening up the stove door to avoid smoke spillage. Be careful reaching behind the stove when it's hot.
BeGreen, Thancks for the good advice I will look out for that. The big problem is going to be moving this beast so I can do the work! Its like 700 lbs. wish me luck. Darren
carboncreator said:
If the stove is set on glossy tile it will be surprisingly easy to scoot. I have wiggled my 500# hearthstone around on the tiles in order to plumb the stove pipe with minimal effort. It's not a whole body pull, it is a hand grip squeeze. Like plant your palms on the tile and your fingers around the legs and squeeze your fingers like trying to squish a pop can. Roll your hands back on the meaty side of your palm. You'll see what I mean, you won't even be using arm strength much less back strength. Now if you need to move it on a rough surface or even off of the hearth then all bets are off.
The stove is mounted on a slate hearth, I am going to try and gently pry up the legs one at a time and slide some heave plastic sheeting under them this is how we slide heavy reels of cable around in close spaces on the job site.
hey fellow wood burners,im goinging to be installing a damper,i bought one at tsc... no instructions... just wondering how far above the heritage stove top to to install it...thank you all for the usefull info you all add to this site and a late happy and sofe new year....ZZim
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