Flue Temperatures and catalytic stoves

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John Lehet

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
Nov 9, 2013
282
Vermont
So for the last 23 years or so I’ve burned in non-cat stoves, and I’ve managed to have zero creosote in my chimney(s). Burn hot. A lot of heat went up the chimney in those stoves too.

Now I’ve got a hybrid stove, which burns even cleaner and should send less stuff up the chimney. EPA rates this Progress Hybrid at .5g/hour or something, while my old Jotul was over 5g/hour. But this efficient beast captures a lot of the heat out of the flue gas. Like right now with a small load of wood and probably more catalytic combustion than flame-heat, I’ve got temps just over 200F on the single wall pipe a bit above the stove, according to the IR thermometer. The brick chimney above, going through the bedroom (with liner) used to be warm to the touch, sometimes pretty warm, with the Jotul. Now those bricks are never warm, even though I’m now burning 24/7. I only burned in daytime with the tube stove but those bricks got warm by bedtime. Obviously the flue and chimney is way cooler than it was, even when I’m burning hot in cool weather. Now it’s mild weather.

When I was stove shopping I went to a local stove shop, and the sales woman was trying to sell me a Lopi Answer. I was suggesting I’d want a bigger firebox. She said I’d have creosote in the chimney if I burned smaller fires in a big stove. I said, “But the catalyst should take care of all that. If the cat’s firing, there’s nothing to make creosote.” She said nope, don’t do it. On the one hand I thought she was wrong, but on the other hand I wondered. She runs a stove shop after all. I’m just one guy with a lot of non-cat experience and very little catalytic burning in all my years of wood burning. Was she right? Or maybe sometimes sort of right?

So today I’m doing just what she told me not to do. And the Progress Hybrid is probably far more efficient than most stoves at sucking heat out of a small fire and not sending it up the chimney.

I’m experimenting how to burn this stove in milder weather. Even in cold weather I do pretty long burn cycles all the way down through coaling for a while before re-loading. In milder weather I’ve been mostly doing the same kind of thing but with smaller loads, like 8 pounds of wood and then very long coal-time, just enough coals to re-kindle. Though I also find I can keep a pretty low fire continuously in mild weather with small loads on catalytic burn, shut pretty far down, just a bit of flame and the stove top 300 to 350F. I can’t see anything coming out of the chimney except when the bypass is open, except steam early in the fire.

Recent appearance of Ray and his Heat-Maxx or whatever also got me wondering. I wouldn’t think of cooling this flue down any more. No, I will not do that. But how low is too low given my current setup? If there are basically no hydrocarbons after the cat, then what would make creosote?

I guess I’ll see come chimney cleaning time…
 
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I’ve always had creosote with my catalyst stove in the flue while cleaning. I used to run a tube stove and would only have brown dust.
 
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I think much of what one sees in a cat stove (with proper working cat), is due to the smoke upon reloading - the flue will be very cool (I sometimes see 150 F on the probe), and then while charring the load, I'm pumping some smoke up there.
That's gotta lead to some deposits.

But after that initial smoke is gone, I don't see anything coming out (maybe some whisps every hour is so, possibly when the thermostat is changing the air in n my stove). So that can't contribute to deposits imo, even when flue temps are around 200 F on the probe.
 
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Sounds like you are running the stove at the level the home requires. I like that.
Perfect.

Pick a day in the first month and clean your chimney. See what's happening up yonder way! Should give you some real time guidance.
 
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^^
Exactly.
All theory aside, see what's happening, initially a bit soon, and if results allow spaced farther apart.
 
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Probably 80-90% of the creosote in my chimney is in the double-wall black pipe (18" horizontal, then about 24" vertical) that connects to the double-wall insulated stove pipe running 27' vertically. I get a little bit at the very top of the chimney and basically nothing in between.

Chimney sweeps (at least the couple I have hired) don't do a good job of telling me what they found when they cleaned the chimney pipe (almost universally they say "it wasn't bad", which I've learned means "there wasn't anything in there, but we don't want to tell you that because then you won't have us come back every year"). Given that, I've taken to cleaning out my own chimney and will just hire someone every 3 years or so to inspect the top and the cap.

I'm fortunate to have a mix of really hard hardwoods (ash, hard maple, hickory) and soft hardwoods (black walnut, soft maple, cherry) and I'll burn a full load of softer hardwoods with a little maple mixed in when it is warmer to keep the firebox at a good, full BTU burn (i.e., not half filled). I tend to believe that has little good or bad impact on creosote production.

As my wood has gotten even drier I'm noticing the creosote powder in my chimney is going down.
 
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If your not seeing any smoke out the chimney while the cat is engaged your golden. The shop lady does have a point though, how small of a load will be too small where you don’t get a good cat light off and start producing creosote? You’ll have to figure that one out yourself.

For my Fireview half loads or about 10-12 lbs is about my limit. I prefer to just fill it up 3/4 and up 20-30 lbs and rely on the air setting to give me the output I want.

My flue temps are about 100 degrees less on average compared to my previous non cat stove that was on the same chimney and burning the same wood. I’m also seeing a little firewood savings compared to last year with the other stove. I’m just now creeping up on 1.5 cords. Last year I was at almost two cords at this point with a milder winter.
 
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There are still hydrocarbons there to make creosote even with a cat working properly. Not as much no but it's still there and you will get creosote if it's to cool
 
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She runs a stove shop after all. I’m just one guy with a lot of non-cat experience and very little catalytic burning in all my years of wood burning. Was she right? Or maybe sometimes sort of right?
The shop that did my install did a spectacular job, really nice install clean and tidy totally up to code. But they also told me don't burn pine it causes creosote and chimney fires. You can be really good at one thing but doesn't mean there are some gaps in knowledge.
 
But they also told me don't burn pine it causes creosote and chimney fires. You can be really good at one thing but doesn't mean there are some gaps in knowledge.
Yes, I definitely had a sense that she wasn't totally with it or deeply into it, the way, say, Lorin at Woodstock is. So I just kind of walked away wondering. That was probably late August, so it was just abstraction at the time anyway. Turned out it would be four months before the catalytic stove was burning.

When I was getting the mini splits installed, I had been researching a lot, and I knew more about mini splits than half the guys who came out to give me estimates. In that case it was clear who was knowledgable and who wasn't. Like one guy who insisted a multi-head installation was just as efficient, and then suggested putting the outdoor compressor right in front of a window (blocking it!) and under the eave of a metal roof in a snowy climate.

half loads or about 10-12 lbs is about my limit. I prefer to just fill it up 3/4 and up 20-30 lbs and rely on the air setting to give me the output I want.
I can pretty easily light off the cat with a load of 7-8 pounds (brand new cat) on a bed of decent coals. But controlling the output by setting the air setting way down is a bit of what I'm worried about, as far as the flue being cold. With this big soapstone beast I've got two alternate strategies in milder weather (and it's almost all milder weather these days): I can either run a hot fire, get the mass of soapstone a bit warmer and do a longer coast to the next firing, or I can shut it down pretty far and run it longer. With a small load it's much easier to run it shut down far and do a more catalytic burn, but the stove and flue cooler. With a 3/4 or full load, it's a different dynamic when shut down. There's a lot more tendency to want to flame fiercely and then a lot more tension between smoke and flame in the firebox, a tendency to go between black box and flame bursting up. Running with dry hardwood.

There's a guy on reddit, Accomplished_Fun1846 (not sure of that numerical part) who has thermocouples at the cat, chimney, and stove surface, and he logs the data from his Mansfield. He is quite sure that the kind of operation where the stove is black-box followed by a flame-up is less efficient, presumably by looking at the temps he sees. He says that flame-up out of black box disrupts the state of the cat operation for a period. If I shut it down cooler on the Progress Hybrid with a big load I get those kind of black->full firebox flame -> black repeating intervals, but with a smaller load I can keep a very small steady state flame or a steady black box for that matter, with the cat firing. And a cooler stove, cooler flue. Still trying to figure it out.

It's all fine really. The stove is great and we are comfortable. I'm sure any creosote is pretty minimal, as I run with the cat firing and no smoke at the chimney. Just being a geek and trying to figure out the best burning strategies. Maybe overthinking!
 
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Since you know burning hot is clean, and since you have the thermal mass to spread out the heat more, I would burn a small load hot and and then glide down until you need more heat on milder days Use the thermal mass for what it was meant for.

A stove with thermal mass does that with lower heat peaks than others.

Keep some ashes in there to keep some coals hot for easier relighting.
 
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Trial and error. You’ll figure it out. How does the heat feel of this stove compare to your old masonry heater?
 
How does the heat feel of this stove compare to your old masonry heater?
The Progress feels actually nicer in some ways. The Tulikivi was huggable, or at least lean-able. We used to stand around, family or visiting friends, and lean against it. There were hot spots sooner after a burn, but overall the temp of it was lower. We didn’t need that much heat in that house. It just subtly warmed the place up. You could feel it was warm, but it was mild. Pretty rare that I needed to heat it so it was uncomfortable to touch or really felt like a strong force of heat. We sure did lean against it a lot.

I have two friends with Tulikivis (maybe I can take credit for spreading that — they surely saw mine back in the day). Both have houses that need more heat than my old house so they must keep them hotter. But I’ve never visited them in winter, or at least when the stove was hot. That might be different.

The Progress is completely different, and nicer as an experience of the radiation. It’s quite hard to explain, but the heat just kind of feels “strong” and like a powerful force. It’s kind of weird. And of course we had another woodstove on the same hearth the day before, the month, and years before, so it’s not like we are unused to a hot woodstove radiating. But somehow it just feels: “Oomph! Heat! Right at you!” First time I got it hot my wife was in her chair near it too, and I can’t remember which one of us said, “Feel that?!!”

After having had the Tulikivi, for years I really thought soapstone wood stoves were a gimmick and a joke. Man was I wrong. It’s really something.
 
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If there are basically no hydrocarbons after the cat, then what would make creosote?

There are hydrocarbons left after the cat. Plus warm up and reload cycles puke raw smoke into the stack.

Your 200 degree surface temp of single wall pipe is about as low as I would run it. That corresponds to a 400 degree internal temperature which has long been the bottom limit of the "ideal" burn range. This should help keep the flue gasses above the condensation temperature until after they leave the top of the chimney.

That said, you have a masonry chimney so that thing is stealing a little more heat than a class A pipe stack so a little warmer is better.

Like was said earlier, give it a sweep after a month or two and see what color the stuff is and how much. I'm glad you're loving that stove. It's a big gamble to buy a new tech stove.
 
I think that you are doing a fine job burning...the first year with my BK Princess I took some bad advice and kept my internal pipe temperature at 300 degrees and ended up with a mess on my hands! I then discovered the Auber thermocouple probe (thanks to the folks on here} and now I maintain a internal internal pipe temp from 450-500 degrees..no matter the size of the load in the fire box..the stove stays clean including the door glass and more importantly the pipe stays clean..and I still get long burn times..I am lucky to get 2 coffee cups of ash out of the pipe at the annual cleaning...that $80 Auber Thermocouple kit was the best investment I have made for this stove...not only can you maintain the proper temp it also has a VERY audible alarm if the temp go over your preset temp...thats a win if you get distracted..
 
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