Howdy all. I am new to the site but not to burning wood. I currently have a Fisher Grandma Bear that heats my garage and a Lilly add on in the house. I will be moving shortly into one of my rentals as I am selling the current home. I have a central masonry chimney in the "new" house. My question is looking at liners it appears some are nothing more than a one piece flex pipe. So is there a reason you can't just drop several pieces of single wall pipe in and achieve the same effect? I plan to install the Fisher in the basement attached to the masonry chimney and expect to have to install a liner of some sort. Although I haven't inspected the chimney yet to see if it is workable or not. Just trying to do some homework. So I guess what I am saying is: School me on liners.
FNG with a couple of liner ?'s
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Single-wall steel connector pipe is not rated (or tested) to be used inside a chimney.
If you intend to line a chimney & hook up a wood burning appliance, you
hafta use stainless steel.
It can be rigid or flexible, but it HAS to be stainless.
If you intend to line a chimney & hook up a wood burning appliance, you
hafta use stainless steel.
It can be rigid or flexible, but it HAS to be stainless.
DAKSY said:
Ok thats what I was looking for. I am not nessecarily looking to cut corners on my install. I just wondered why you don't see it done. I guess it seems odd to me that its ok to use black single wall inside the living space but you can't insert it into a masonry chimney. Oh well guess I will start shopping liners.
Any pipe or vent you cannot see from the outside needs to be stainless. The problem is you'll never know if the single wall pipe rusts if you can't see it, that's why anything concealed has to be stainless.
Ok we have gotten the essentials moved so I had some time to look at my chimney. Forgot to take pics though :roll: In the basement I have 2 6" inlets to the chimney. I am assuming the lower one is for clean-out since it is about 1.5' below the other. Problem I see is that my fisher has an 8" outlet. How hard would it be to open up the 6" access to 8" assuming the rest of the chimney is big enough for an 8" liner? Is it as simple as chiseling out the brick to enlarge the opening or is there alot more involved?
Pagey said:
I could go that route but was always taught not to neck down a flue. The manufacture designed the stove with an 8" outlet and that's how it should be run. Maybe I am wrong and it won't matter. Let me know what everyone thinks.
You could always install the reducer and see how it burns. If it burns ok, then your good to go.
A reducer tried first, is alot cheaper than a reline with 8".
You may even find it drafts better with the smaller liner. Might not, but worth a try.
A reducer tried first, is alot cheaper than a reline with 8".
You may even find it drafts better with the smaller liner. Might not, but worth a try.
Ok managed to get up on the roof yesterday. Looks like I have a brick chimney with a stainless(?) Liner in it for the gas furnace. Internal measurements are about 9x9" square. I am guessing I won't have room for an insulated liner. Will I ba ok with an uninsulated 8" liner? Or would it be better to put in a 6" insulated liner and neck down the flue @ the stove?
Does it have a liner in it.. Most liners aren't square so I wasn't sure if it was terra cotta or stainless..
If it's a gas fireplace then it is most likely aluminum and not stainless.. do you actually see a round tube in there.. you have mentioned 9x9 how big is the round liner... you cannot have two appliances in the same flue
watchamakalit said:
TheHeatElement said:
I understand I can't have the 2 appliances on one flue. I have a brick chimney with a metal liner. The inside of the brick (doesn't have a tile liner) is 9"x9". I am now down to weather I want a 8" uninsulated liner or a 6" insulated one. My fisher has a 8" outlet on it. I know I won't be able to put an 8" insulated liner in. the metal liner that is in there now is maybe 4", and could possible be aluminum I don't know.
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