Garage Heater

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does the unit come with information on the correct regulator, connections, etc to run it off the 100# tank? I will research it anyway but it’s nice to have the info from the manufacturer.
 
does the unit come with information on the correct regulator, connections, etc to run it off the 100# tank? I will research it anyway but it’s nice to have the info from the manufacturer.
I honestly can't recall. I've had mine for over 10 years, and through a move. The company that supplies the tank set up the regulator.
 
that heater from northern tool is the same heater that i did a no heat call last week. the only difference between that heater and the one that i worked on is the one i worked on was 80,000 btu. nice heater. also the one i worked on has the sterling name on it and costs way more. runs on a regular house type low voltage thermostat. the guy heated his garage 24/7 and it was his first trouble in 12 years.
 
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I have my 1000 sf garage in floor heat offline and drained while I’m remodeling it, and I’m using one of these Big Buddy heaters to keep it warm. I got it for fishing but I use it all over now. Set on low once in a while is all it takes and hardly any stink. Takes the chill off and up to 70+ in no time on high. Not to say it’s your best bet but for just over $100, and with how versatile it is, might be worth considering something like it if your needs are brief and supplemental. Has wall mount screw pockets on the back too. 8449C531-4CA9-4DCC-B153-D23B9C62D009.jpeg
 
By Savings, do yo mean that it used less fuel to run or do yo mean an electric one? Also, do those ceiling mounted units run off of a 100# tank. I don't mind the cost of the Mr. Heater ceiling mounted system one referenced above until you see that the vent kit is separate and costs as much as the heater. I would need a significant savings in energy consumption for some thing I only plan on using a few hours a week for a portion of the year. Heck, if winter in Southeastern, Ohio is going to be like this in the future, I don't need heat lol.
yes savings as in less fuel... the shops i know that use it are super warm and their heating bill is cheap... Cant remember what one of the shops told me they saved by switching over but it was massive and worth the expense. One shop i visit installed 4 units 1 in each bay and said they payed for themselves the first winter. Running on propane is just a matter of changing the orfice and it usually comes with multiple for different fuel configurations. The units i seen the vents were noting special
 
Just ordered the Mr. Heater 50,000 from Northern Tool. The price dropped again and including tax a $55 for shipping, I got it for $383.00. I have some other things to work on in getting the building ready but I will update once I have it installed and working. Thanks for all the advice.
 
Just ordered the Mr. Heater 50,000 from Northern Tool. The price dropped again and including tax a $55 for shipping, I got it for $383.00. I have some other things to work on in getting the building ready but I will update once I have it installed and working. Thanks for all the advice.
I have the similar Modine Hot Dawg model in my shop. Works great for a 20x30 area. Wall are insulated and ceiling has 2" foam board. Still have to wear boots as the concrete never warms up in the time I'm in there.
 
Just ordered the Mr. Heater 50,000 from Northern Tool. The price dropped again and including tax a $55 for shipping, I got it for $383.00. I have some other things to work on in getting the building ready but I will update once I have it installed and working. Thanks for all the advice.
I too have a similar 50,000 BTU garage heater that I put in years ago. It works great to heat my 36' x 28' work garage. I have 9' ceilings, 6" fiberglass insulated walls and ceiling. The circulation fan is a bit noisy, but otherwise it works perfectly. I have the thermostat wired in series with a simple toggle switch. When I plan to work out there, just flip the switch and it fires up, runs to the set temp.
 
Just ordered the Mr. Heater 50,000 from Northern Tool.

You'll be much happier than running an open flame heater, and so will every piece of iron in your shop/garage. I used to run a pair of propane torpedo heaters back in the day when working in an un-insulated airplane hanger, and I was amazed at the condensation (dew) that would form on every piece of cold metal in that hanger. Got to where rusty water drops would fall from the metal rafters. I shake my head at all the dumb things I got away with in my youth.
 
i agree with the capt. lots of moisture with a propane torpedo. i have a 265,000 btu unit even with the moisture on tools and windows it would still feel like it was to dry to my nose.
 
Wood1dennis (or anyone else with a heater like this)...
Did you run steel line from your tank to your unit or some type of flex line? My 100# tank is going to sit right outside the garage wall from where the heater is going to hang. It will be less than a 10' span.
 
Wood1dennis (or anyone else with a heater like this)...
Did you run steel line from your tank to your unit or some type of flex line? My 100# tank is going to sit right outside the garage wall from where the heater is going to hang. It will be less than a 10' span.

Not sure what the code is there in Ohio but in PA (or could) you can run flared copper directly from the regulator to the heater.
 
Wood1dennis (or anyone else with a heater like this)...
Did you run steel line from your tank to your unit or some type of flex line? My 100# tank is going to sit right outside the garage wall from where the heater is going to hang. It will be less than a 10' span.
Mine is buried flex until the regulator on the shop wall. Black iron from there to the heater.
 
+1 with steel pipe.
 
My building has an LP furnace that heats the space upstairs. The building gets it's LP from a 350 gallon tank, from the regulator all of the gas is plumbed in black iron pipe. The garage heater gas line is black iron pipe that is teed off of the main line feeding the furnace. The iron pipe ends at the wall behind the heater at a shut off valve. From the valve the last three feet or so are connected to the furnace with a flex line.
 
I got one of the torpedo/salamander/jet engine/whatever they're called type. It burns diesel if you don't want t o spend $11 a gallon or kerosene. Not sure if it would work for what you want but might be worth looking at for $400. This one burns about a gallon and hour, they have a smaller one too. Certainly not a run it 24 hrs a day machine but nice for a quick warm up. I have it in an uninsulated basement the same dimensions as your shop and it'll heat up quick. If you point it towards your work area you'll have an 80 degree bubble to enjoy. There is a slight smell when it first kicks on but burns cleanly. Don't let it run out of fuel, it will throw a few nasty diesel clouds at you.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-210...erosene-Diesel-Construction-Heater/1001045860

I have a 135,000 BTU salamander heater that will burn diesel or kerosene. It works well and will heat the air up quickly. Problem is everything else in the garage is cold, including the concrete floor, and it takes a long time to heat up. Not sure where you are getting $11.00 a gallon for fuel, but around here it's $2.79 a gallon for diesel.
 
I have a 135,000 BTU salamander heater that will burn diesel or kerosene. It works well and will heat the air up quickly. Problem is everything else in the garage is cold, including the concrete floor, and it takes a long time to heat up. Not sure where you are getting $11.00 a gallon for fuel, but around here it's $2.79 a gallon for diesel.
Kerosene is $11
 
At the big Orange store. I don't know any pumps that sell it around here.
 
I want to make it steel pipe so I am going to start watching youtube videos and talk to the old guys at the hardware store. They are youtube and google before youtube and goole existed.
 
I want to make it steel pipe so I am going to start watching youtube videos and talk to the old guys at the hardware store. They are youtube and google before youtube and goole existed.
Do you plan to run the steel above ground? I don't know code verbatim so please fact check. I don't think you can direct bury iron pipe and pretty sure there can be no threaded joints under ground. You can wrap the pipe with a protective wrap that allows burial but the joints all have to be welded.
 
I just seen that you are using a 100# tank. I think tanks less than 125 gallon can be closer than 10 feet to a building. Like 3-5 feet or something. If you can get it closer you can probably run copper tube from the the tank to the wall then transition to iron pipe.
 
Yes I plane on putting just outside the garage wall. I have considered copper flex line but would prefer steel as something a little more permanent.
 
Yes I plane on putting just outside the garage wall. I have considered copper flex line but would prefer steel as something a little more permanent.
Recommend copper from the wall to the regulator/tank. Copper is bendable and more forgiving if the tank moves or when swapping/refilling tanks.
 
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