Gardus Sooteater stuck in 6" flue pipe

[davidmsem]

Hello, I have a Regency wood-burning fireplace insert that I have been cleaning from the bottom up using a Gardus Sooteater (6" round flue).

I clean on the way up, but on the way down , the sections disconnected leaving behind a 15 foot section , comprised of five 3 foot plastic sections plus the 6" diameter plastic brush .

Not sure what I should do other then perhaps call a chimney sweep to see if maybe he can get it loose . Any suggestions if I can't get this out?

I tried wrapping a rag around the sections that were free and trying to see if it would bump into the head and drop it down . No luck .

Any suggestions or comments ?

 

[brenndatomu]

That's weird...is there a bend in the pipe? On a straight flue the whole thing should fall right out...

 

[Highbeam]

You must have some sort of bends because the “brush” end of the sooteater is only slightly larger than the rods and wouldn’t normally hang up.

I still have the old threaded rods and poly brush that is a tight fit. I would get the old set up out and sweep from above to push the sooteater down. Buying a traditional setup should be cheaper than hiring a chimney sweep.

Can you disassemble any pipe sections that might get you closer to the rogue sooteater ?

 

[davidmsem]

That's weird...is there a bend in the pipe? On a straight flue the whole thing should fall right out...

Couple of quick bends right after exiting the insert.

 

[davidmsem]

You must have some sort of bends because the “brush” end of the sooteater is only slightly larger than the rods and wouldn’t normally hang up.

I still have the old threaded rods and poly brush that is a tight fit. I would get the old set up out and sweep from above to push the sooteater down. Buying a traditional setup should be cheaper than hiring a chimney sweep.

Can you disassemble any pipe sections that might get you closer to the rogue sooteater ?

Chimney sweep said he'd have to take the stone cap off. Tons of expense. His advice: leave it and let it melt. There are a couple of bends at the bottom, not crazy sharp bends, but they are there

 

[begreen]

Bummer. It sounds like the spring lock pin was not engaged. The slight bends may make it a little harder to remove but the real issue is getting hold of it. How high up is the end of the rod from the insert? How much space is there between the stone cap on the chimney and the flue liner top edge?

 

[davidmsem]

Bummer. It sounds like the spring lock pin was not engaged. The slight bends may make it a little harder to remove but the real issue is getting hold of it. How high up is the end of the rod from the insert? How much space is there between the stone cap on the chimney and the flue liner top edge?

I thought this Spring lock was engaged because I put another five sections after that and was cleaning on the way up and things were working fine , but it must not have been fully engaged . I really can't tell how high up it is I'm guessing just after those couple of bends, but I can't see anything when looking up there . There is maybe 6 inches between the stone And the pipe of foot at most . It's really high up there .

 

[begreen]

If the rods are fiberglass, they are not going to melt. If they are plastic there may be a god awful mess in the pipe when they melt.
A couple of ideas would be to attempt some sort of lasso system on a rod to get around the bottom of the rod, then cinch the noose and pull it down until it is in sight. This could take several attempts. A boroscope would help to locate the end of the rod and position the lasso. Another would be to have a weight like a 4" heavy ball on a rope and s drop it down from the top to knock the assembly down lower.

 

[brenndatomu]

Yeah the rods are plastic...would make a real mess out of things if left...probably never be able to clean the flue properly again.
I think I would drop a coffee can (or something about 5 - 5.5" in diameter) full of rocks and attached to a rope down the flue from the top...knock 'er back south...

 

[davidmsem]

If the rods are fiberglass, they are not going to melt. If they are plastic there may be a god awful mess in the pipe when they melt.
A couple of ideas would be to attempt some sort of lasso system on a rod to get around the bottom of the rod, then cinch the noose and pull it down until it is in sight. This could take several attempts. A boroscope would help to locate the end of the rod and position the lasso. Another would be to have a weight like a 4" heavy ball on a rope and s drop it down from the top to knock the assembly down lower.

Thank you. Good thoughts. I won't climb up to do a top down, but the scope is a good idea.

Thank you!

 

[WinterinWI]

If you don't want to go from the top, I'd try to rig something up with fish tape (used for pulling electrical wire). Maybe make a sort of hook on the end. It shouldn't be stuck too hard. You did trim the plastic whips on the sooteater to the recommended length for your size pipe right?

 

[fire_man]

I like Begreen's lasso idea along with the boroscope. A short light rope or a loop of 14 gauge solid wire mounted at the end of your extra extensions could slip over the end of the stuck rods. Then twirl it tight and pull her down!

I can't believe how reasonably priced these boroscopes are. This one is only $21 and has a simirigid wire:

Amazon product ASIN B07DNC17BR

 

[WinterinWI]

I like Begreen's lasso idea along with the boroscope. A short light rope or a loop of 14 gauge solid wire mounted at the end of your extra extensions could slip over the end of the stuck rods. Then twirl it tight and pull her down!

I can't believe how reasonably priced these boroscopes are. This one is only $21 and has a simirigid wire:

Amazon product ASIN B07DNC17BR

Yes, I was surprised at the price too, I bought a similar one last year. They last about 5 minutes. At least it accomplished what I needed to inspect, but don't expect it to be a tool that you'll have around for future use.

 

[Highbeam]

Seriously, brush it old school from the top. The brush is tight and will push the soot eater down to the firebox. It’s a bummer you’re in this position but the fix is simple.

 

[begreen]

Seriously, brush it old school from the top. The brush is tight and will push the soot eater down to the firebox. It’s a bummer you’re in this position but the fix is simple.

Top of the chimney is high and he doesn't want to go there. It also has a heavy stone cover that would need to be removed. It's not as simple as it seems.

 

[davidmsem]

If you don't want to go from the top, I'd try to rig something up with fish tape (used for pulling electrical wire). Maybe make a sort of hook on the end. It shouldn't be stuck too hard. You did trim the plastic whips on the sooteater to the recommended length for your size pipe right?

Yes, I did cut the plastic whips to the correct size, 1/4" larger than the diameter. I will try something, not sure what yet. Thank you!

 

[brenndatomu]

Buy a second one to knock the first one out...can't anymore than get 2 stuck up there

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I wonder if you could snag it with a catch pole made of half inch PVC?

 

[davidmsem]

Buy a second one to knock the first one out...can't anymore than get 2 stuck up there

that is the current plan, to buy a new head send it up and see what happens .

 

[brenndatomu]

that is the current plan, to buy a new head send it up and see what happens .

I'm sure it goes without saying now, but just make sure the spring loaded buttons are fully engaged before proceeding. I clean from the top down and always make sure things are properly engaged because it would be a real PITA to get it out from the bottom on my setup if the SE came apart...that includes making double sure the chuck on my drill stays tight, since its all hanging from that...

 

[billb3]

The polyester or vinylester used to bind and form the fiberglass will start to soften at about 200ºF
The temp the fiberglass melts at is pretty much irrelevant.


which is moot considering the Gardus uses 12mm or 16mm nylon or polypropylene rods which are thermoplastics with melt temps under 450ºF, they also will soften before they melt. The whips are made of a nylon that melts like a candle at around 425ºF and also soften much sooner than that.
So theoretically, if you were stuck in a straight shot, a fire in the stove should cause the sooteater to drop if it is only wedged in. You would have a possibly melted mess to clean up. If it actually gets to 425ºF it is like hot candle wax which, when it cools shapes and often sticks just like candle wax.
I would use heat to let it fall as a last resort. Although if you can grab it, heat the flue, then pull it up that might work. Keeping in mind, warmed thermoplastics have lower tensile strengths and elastic modulus.

 

[davidmsem]

I'm sure it goes without saying now, but just make sure the spring loaded buttons are fully engaged before proceeding. I clean from the top down and always make sure things are properly engaged because it would be a real PITA to get it out from the bottom on my setup if the SE came apart...that includes making double sure the chuck on my drill stays tight, since its all hanging from that...

Welcome to my life. I ordered a new head and will use the 5 sections that made it out to see if I can get the stuck 5 out.

 

[MAD MARK]

Hate to say this, but this is one of most interesting threads so far this season. Maybe some pictures of the setup and chimney top would help.

Best of luck and keep us updated.

 

[Rickb]

I agree pics are needed because I can say having used mine for the last 4 years, there is no way mine could get stuck if my straight chimney..... Now if you have some bends I could see it.

 

[showrguy]

Just pull the stove and grab ahold of it..
That thing ain’t comin past any bends without getting ahold of the end first..