Garn Maintenence

[Rick Stanley]

Hi All,
I haven't been here for a long time. I see you guys are still at it. That's great. When doing the general cleaning, water test and general getting ready for this season I ended up installing new fire bricks and gasket under the blower and cleanout covers., and also bought a filter set-up for bacteria issues I'm having. If anyone hasn't done it yet and needs to, I'll talk about it with you. Email me rick@chickfarm.com

Rick

 

[OT_Ducati]

Planning on a Garn. What kind of bacteria? Iron?
Thanks

 

[Rick Stanley]

Planning on a Garn. What kind of bacteria? Iron?
Thanks

They recommend a water test at beginning and end of each heating season. It's free. The testing company has chemicals to add that are not free. Because Garns aren't pressurized they are exposed to the atmosphere and any bacteria that is around. Depends on your situation. Some installations have few problems I guess, but mine is a farm situation and I guess they are prone to bacteria so I've had issues with corrosive bacteria. Search on "Garn Corrosion" I had posted on it a few years back. Since the bacteria comes back every year they have sold me a filter (not cheap) that is suppose to solve the problem.

 

[711mhw]

I had wondered what happened to you Rick. The last I remember was your bacteria issue, wasn't that due to chicken chit? I had feared that you had more problems and just were not into talking about it. What is this filter system? I remember that you did quite an extensive cleaning on some of your last posts, is this bacteria condition re occuring due to your birds or once exposed are you veunerable forever? Nice to hear from you and to see that you are still burning.

 

[Rick Stanley]

I had wondered what happened to you Rick. The last I remember was your bacteria issue, wasn't that due to chicken chit? I had feared that you had more problems and just were not into talking about it. What is this filter system? I remember that you did quite an extensive cleaning on some of your last posts, is this bacteria condition re occuring due to your birds or once exposed are you veunerable forever? Nice to hear from you and to see that you are still burning.

I've had some health issues last couple of years. All is well now. The bacteria thing has been lingering every year. When I test water it is back. Been dumping chemicals in every year and it comes back. So the testing company has sold me this filter that is suppose to keep things clear. We'll see. I have the tees cut in but have not installed the filter itself.................I don't know about the details but they tell me this problem is more common in farm installations. I guess now that it is in there, since the chemicals don't kill every single bacteria, they multiply and start again. The filter is suppose to catch them
(dead and alive) by continuously flowing the water through it. I'll keep you posted.

 

[woodsmaster]

Hope it works for you. Sounds like a real pain. Maybe a pressurized system would be better for farms.

 

[Clarkbug]

Rick,

Have you considered the use of a UV light? If you have the Tees plumbed in for this filter, one could be added. I have seen them used in a number of pure water systems and on HVAC coils to inhibit the growth of bacteria. Essentially the water is just circulated past the light, and it kills off the bacteria after repeated exposure.

Not sure of the cost implications, but it might be a way for you to beat the little critters once and for all.

 

[bpirger]

Rick, Glad to hear you are doign well. Sorry to hear about the reoccuring bacteria battle...must be a real disappointment to have the concern...but hopefully you are on to the solution.

I have cleaned out my HX tubes twice now (once a year) and ended up replacing one of the small gaskets. I have also had to replace the manhole seal. I'm also eating up the anode rods, about one every 6 months. I haven't had to add any more chemicals to my system since the initial fill in NOV2010, and have been doing the chemistry testing every 6 months.

 

[Sawyer]

Hi Rick, glad to hear you may have a solution to the bacteria problem. I thought since you didn’t mention it again that you had the problem solved.

Like Bruce, I have been cleaning the flues twice a year. I was told to put tin foil between the gasket and the Garn when I replaced the gaskets. I added a coating of bronze high-temp anti seize compound and now removing and replacing without damage is not a problem.

I added a backer rod to the top of my manhole cover opening (not sure if you suggested that or not) and now the cover seals well.

Keep us posted on the bacteria filter, I am sure someone else will benefit from your experience.

 

[Rick Stanley]

Hi Rick, glad to hear you may have a solution to the bacteria problem. I thought since you didn’t mention it again that you had the problem solved.

Like Bruce, I have been cleaning the flues twice a year. I was told to put tin foil between the gasket and the Garn when I replaced the gaskets. I added a coating of bronze high-temp anti seize compound and now removing and replacing without damage is not a problem.

I added a backer rod to the top of my manhole cover opening (not sure if you suggested that or not) and now the cover seals well.

Keep us posted on the bacteria filter, I am sure someone else will benefit from your experience.

Great idea using foil under gaskets. What's the backer rod on manhole cover?

 

[Sawyer]

I had a post when I started up my Garn. I was having steam escape between the manhole ring and the cover into the insulation in one spot. I tried with Garn’s help to stop the problem to no avail. At Tom Caldwell’s suggestion I took .75” backer rod and cut a split into it so it could slide over the manhole ring edge. By compression it allowed for a perfect seal on a imperfect fit and the vapor escaped through the drain supplied on the front of the Garn.

 

[2.beans]

Got any pictures of the backer rod installed?

 

[Sawyer]

Got any pictures of the backer rod installed?

Unfortunately I do not. If you visualize slicing the backer 2/3rds of the way through with a box cutter, you end up with the backer rod ready to slip over the ring of the manhole.

 

[Rick Stanley]

Unfortunately I do not. If you visualize slicing the backer 2/3rds of the way through with a box cutter, you end up with the backer rod ready to slip over the ring of the manhole.

Nice idea!!

(broken link removed) First off, I didn't even know what backer rod was until I just looked it up. Anyways I had the same issue and kept moving the cover around and it finally settled in and no trouble since. Unless I miss-guess and run it up to around 200* like I've done a couple of times. Then it will puff a little

 

[Rick Stanley]

Here's the filter drawing again. Precision Chem suggested installing a low pressure gauge on both the inlet and outlet side of the filter to tell when to change the cartridge. I've searched and found gauges at Grainger's and other places that go from 0-15 psi but they are rated only to 140 degrees. Any thoughts? Thanks!

 

[Rick Stanley]

Here are a couple shots of the filter installed. Couldn't find a LOW pressure gauge so I just left a tee in there to add one later if needed.(broken image removed)

 

[Rick Stanley]

Here are a couple shots of the filter installed. Couldn't find a LOW pressure gauge so I just left a tee in there to add one later if needed.(broken image removed)View attachment 85432View attachment 85433View attachment 85432View attachment 85433

Sorry about the double pics

 

[Rick Stanley]

Sorry about the double pics

Got my post season boiler water test results back and the filter is working. Glad to know that

 

[Sawyer]

Good for you Rick. It has to feel good after all the trouble you have experienced.

I just got my test back from Mike and all is good also.

 

[jebatty]

Did you ever install pressure gauges? What was the result?

I wouldn't be too concerned about the temperature rating of the gauges. Install a shutoff valve on the feed to each gauge. You only would need to turn the valves "on" occasionally, and then only for less than a minute, to check the differential pressure. I doubt brief exposure to high temperatures will harm the gauges. You also could get by with one pressure gauge: measure pressure on one side, then put the gauge on the other side and measure there. That too gives you the differential pressure. Record the differential pressure when the filter is new, and then as the filter fills up the differential pressure will change. You can decide how much a change you will want before changing the filter.

I have a filter on the boiler side of a plate hx to minimize clogging of the plates from any material in the feed water. It filled up quickly when I started using it, and then the filter filling up rapidly diminished over time. I haven't changed the filter in the last two years. My system is pressurized and sealed, so there is little opportunity for anything in the water after the initial cleaning by the filter.

 

[BoilerMan]

Did you ever install pressure gauges? What was the result?

I wouldn't be too concerned about the temperature rating of the gauges. Install a shutoff valve on the feed to each gauge. You only would need to turn the valves "on" occasionally, and then only for less than a minute, to check the differential pressure. I doubt brief exposure to high temperatures will harm the gauges. You also could get by with one pressure gauge: measure pressure on one side, then put the gauge on the other side and measure there. That too gives you the differential pressure. Record the differential pressure when the filter is new, and then as the filter fills up the differential pressure will change. You can decide how much a change you will want before changing the filter.

I have a filter on the boiler side of a plate hx to minimize clogging of the plates from any material in the feed water. It filled up quickly when I started using it, and then the filter filling up rapidly diminished over time. I haven't changed the filter in the last two years. My system is pressurized and sealed, so there is little opportunity for anything in the water after the initial cleaning by the filter.

What did you use for a filter Jim? Any pics or specs?

TS

 

[jebatty]

Google "hot water filter housing" and you will find a selection. Check ebay and amazon also. Mine is stainless steel, others are plastic. Some plastic ones are rated to 200F which should be sufficient, although in many cases depending on where the filter is installed in the system 170F probably also is OK. You then also need a hot water filter cartridge rated to a sufficient temperature. Many have 3/4" ports. There will be a pressure drop, i.e. increase in head, so flow rate will be affected.