Garrison 3 wood stove

[bilzer]

I recently installed a Garrison 3 (the small one) in my fireplace using an stainless steel adapter kit that transitioned it up through the damper. I have a few questions if anyone has any experience with these stoves.
1) Does anyone know the fire brick layout of them? I move the stove and took out the bricks to make it lighter.
2) Once the stove got hot, the smoke started coming out the back air vents ( I had the door open so perhaps that may have caused that?)
Does anyone have a manual or specifications for the Garrision 3 such as maximum length of wood and brick layout.

 

[begreen]

I like the design of these stoves. If you go to the Hearth.com wiki and look at the Garrison II stove pdf there is a skeleton view of the stove that shows the brick layout for the II. Not sure if that will help, but worth a look.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Garrison_Stoves/

 

[bilzer]

Thanks Be Green, I can get the general layout from that diagram for sure. I was just pondering why I had exhaust smoke coming out the air intakes. I had the front door open, so perhaps that created a different kind of draft or I felt I should have had a brick in front of the air baffle inside the stove.

 

[Rudyjr]

I have a Garrison Two that I can send you any pictures of if you think that will help. I started out with the Garrison in the 70's and it is a great stove design IMO. I have the optional soapstone top and firescreen for mine also.

 

[begreen]

Sounds like weak draft. Exterior chimney on a mild day??

Can you describe the flue setup? How is the stove connected at the back? Is the horiz pipe pitched uphill towards the flue?

 

[CTburning]

I just sold my Garrison 1 with a soapstone top a couple of months ago. It is a little bigger than the #2,3 but the layout is the same. I have an exterior metal chimney and used to have the same issue if I didn't have the best draft. The air is reversing and the smoke comes out the intake. Make sure that you don't have a dampner closed of course and open the doors slowly. I usually could only open one of the doors either way. The method I used is to crack the door open a hair for 15 seconds and give the draft a chance to pick up a little. After that I would open it up the rest of the way slowly and throw a couple logs on the fire and close the door most of the way. On my stove you couldn't just swing the door open. You had to open it in stages and it became a nonissue. There is a learning curve to get the fire going and a good draft. I never had a problem when using seasoned maple as the fire was very hot. Using wet wood it was more of a nuisannce because the temps were quite a bit lower.

 

[bilzer]

I bought a stainless steel adapter kit that is about 3 feet in length. It has a block off plate and insulation. The adapter pipe runs down to the woodstove and then I have a 90 degree elbow going into the stove. The Chimney is about 20 feet tall.

Here is a pic of the set up