Getting a 6" liner through the damper opening

[Jerry_NJ]

I just took a look, with tape measure in hand. at the opening in the steel frame that supports the fireplace damper. I didn't measure the length, but that's not an issue as it is more that 12" I'd estimate. However, the width is just 6", maybe a slight bit less. So, what's one to do to get an insert connected to a 6" stainless steel liner, cut the damper frame open wider? What's the tool, a cutting torch?

Or, is there enough "flex" in the pipe, or pipe adapter to squeeze it down where it passes through the damper frame?

 

[stovehugger]

Obviously assuming that you will not use as fireplace again you can cut a half moon shape out of the metal with a sawsall. Thats what I had to do and it worked fairly good. It does take a while and you want a good blade(s) to start. You also want to make sure you get any creosote buildup out first or you will be wearing it and eating it. Ask me how I know. Good Luck..

 

[Jerry_NJ]

Stovehugger,

Thanks, I'm not concerned about ever putting a damper back in. In fact it now has a "LockTop" exterior damper at the top of the chimney...this too has to go, but should the fireplace ever be returned to an open fireplace the damper could be returned to the top of the chimney.

I'd guess sawing will take some effort...the steel must be hard as it is subjected to a lot of heat when the fireplace is in use.

 

[doug60]

You should be able to squeeze it through.

 

[Jerry_NJ]

doug..

Thanks, the pipe I'm planning to use is a continuous length of the flexible stainless, it will bend around the smoke shelf, the pictures show, and thus has some flexibility. The existing damper opening has a catch that sticks out into the opening, this would have to be cut off to get the pipe down the middle, but that's straight forward, just cut along the line of the existing opening. The opening may in fact be 6", it is very close and as I was looking at an angle. I haven't remove the glass doors yet so I can get "inside".

The fireplace is a full masonry unit with what I'd guess is a standard steel framework that defines the opening and smoke shelf/grate. All the walls and floors, including the curved back wall, are fire brick, and the face of the fireplace and hearth is "used" brick. Not real soft, the brick has held up for almost 25 years and still looks "used" not worn out.

 

[firebird400]

hi i had the sme thing the company i got the liner from ovalize three feet of the pipe for me and the connector they only charged me 9 dollars for it or you can ovalize it your self with a block of wood and a hammer good luck

 

[Burd]

I intalled my liner and had the same thing with the flue And I cut mine with a 41/2inch grinder with a cutting wheel make sure you have eye protection sparks will fly.Saw Saw for me would take to long with a grinder youll be done in now time
Good luck

 

[stanleyjohn]

In my case they removed the fireplace damper and had to cut away alittle of the damper frame.They used a heavy duty type saw with a metal cutting blade.

 

[BrotherBart]

I wrestled with the SawZall and finally just grabbed a hacksaw and a few minutes later it was done. The hacksaw ate through the case iron frame like warm cheese.

 

[Jerry_NJ]

Thanks all, seems the "problem" is a common one. May be the "standard" grate opening is 6", too bad there isn't a standard 5 7/8" stainless steel liner, I'm sure if there were it would work just as well as a 6" liner.

 

[Harley]

Any or all of the above work fine - you can easily flatten it out to get through the damper frame, have a piece of the liner ovalized, or cut out part of it so you can get the liner down. I am a little concerned about the estimate of the "width", which you estimated at more than 12". That would be pretty narrow, I'd think, if we are talking about a normal masonary fireplace that you are planning to re-line. Unless I missed something - the width would normally be "ballparked" in a few feet - not inches.

I'm just curious about what was in there, and what the exising setup is - something else may need to be done.

 

[Jerry_NJ]

Harley,

Thanks for the concern, I was very rough on dimensions. Just taking a careful look, and using the firewood conventions I measure the damper opening to be 5.75" EastWest and 34" NorthSouth. So, a 6" diameter pipe will not fit without some cutting and/or bending.

The fireplace is a "full" masonry fireplace, it stands on its own foundation and is totally outside the house with a firebox opening of 40" wide by 28" high, and 24" deep with a brick Hearth, which is totally inside the house, of about 3 feet.

These chimneys have all e inspected by a licensed inspector and the subject fireplace for the planned insert has been swept and roto-cleaned, just last week.

 

[woodzilla]

die grinder! Bam!

 

[Harley]

OK - that's good - "size-wize" I was just a little confused there. Cutting the damper frame is not usually a big deal at all, and probably your best bet to get it through.

If the chimney is entirely outside of the house, then it's probably a good idea to insulate the liner as well, and a block-off plate around the damper area.