Getting Heat From The BACK of a Pacific Energy Wood Insert - Questions

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

JoeysDad

New Member
Sep 27, 2014
44
Pennsylvania
Hi all,

I have been browsing this forum and have found it to be very helpful in giving ideas for the wood insert I'm looking to have installed next month. Here's some context of where we are at this point...

I had a professional come out to my home yesterday and inspect the existing fireplace and chimney. The existing chimney and terracotta liner were both found to be in good shape - no repairs required. The fireplace opening was also measured and found to be sufficient to fit either a Super (medium size) or Summit (large size) Pacific Energy wood insert. Given that our home is 1800+ square feet, either would be sufficient in the professional's opinion for the MAJORITY of the house (more on that later). After discussing burn times per load, I told him I was leaning toward getting the Summit but to price out both in his estimate.

We also discussed what to do with the blower electrical cord. We have basement space below the existing fireplace, and he said he would have no problem drilling out of the back of the fireplace to plug in the blower in an existing electrical outlet in the ceiling of the basement. I told him I would definitely be interested in that instead of running the blower fan cord to an outlet beside the insert. So that's almost certainly what we'll end up doing there.

We also discussed what to do about the current fireplace setup currently installed. It's a fireplace with a blower on it installed by the previous owner. It does very little to provide heat, and I certainly won't miss it being removed. However, the professional let me know that sometimes removing those leaves black lines and markings on the masonry behind it and that the standard size surround for the PE insert would not cover it all. He said sometimes it's possible to clean the markings off but that sometimes it's pretty stubborn and that people then go with an oversized surround. I am the kind of person to take a chance to clean it first before covering more stone than necessary and spending even more money. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to handle that?

Here comes the part that I'm most questioning and unsure of. Numerous Google searches have come up with NOTHING about this topic, so it must not come up a lot. Even the professional who suggested it said he has done similar things only a few times, with the last time being some years ago. Here it is... He suggested removing some brick from behind the existing fireplace and to put a vent into the room behind the fireplace. See, the room behind the chimney was an addition on the house, and there is only one doorway into this room from the original house. The concern he had was not nearly enough warm air getting into that room or the adjoining sunroom through just one door off of the kitchen. He also noted that warm air tends to have difficulty heating a room that is a step down from the main heated area - which is exactly the scenario here. He said the hot air from behind the stove through a vent would definitely heat the room and that he could possibly put a blower behind the stove to facilitate the movement of that hot air. He's looking into that possibility while coming up with his estimate(s). I should hear back today.

My idea was far less sophisticated. My air conditioning duct work was installed after the building of the house and was installed in the ceiling. This is typical when installing central AC in a rancher style house. My idea was to take advantage of this by using the central fan to move the warm air through the house, including those rooms behind the chimney and away from the main living area. The return for the system is in the ceiling maybe 20 feet away from the fireplace, so I figured this would do a fairly decent job of capturing the heat from the wood insert and moving it through the house.

He was less convinced. He was concerned that the room would never get up to a comfortable enough temperature with that method being the primary/only heat source (I want to get away from oil baseboard hot water) and that the air tends to cool rapidly when it travels through the attic. He said there is no way it would heat the room better than opening up the back of the fireplace and putting a vent in.

Does anyone have experience with getting heat from the BACK of a wood insert? What concerns, if any besides cost, should be taken into consideration with this kind of installation? Has anyone had success/failure with moving heat around the house using a central fan they could share?
 
Last edited:
Welcome to h.c

Couple of buzz kills. The central fan thing has been tried by hundreds here and doesn't work. Duct losses pretty much negate any gain. Second, electrical codes call for the plug for any plug connected device to be available in the same room as the device. A safety thing so that if the thing shorts or whatever you can unplug it.

I will leave poking a hole in the back of the fireplace for others to comment about.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JoeysDad
Welcome to h.c

Couple of buzz kills. The central fan thing has been tried by hundreds here and doesn't work. Duct losses pretty much negate any gain. Second, electrical codes call for the plug for any plug connected device to be available in the same room as the device. A safety thing so that if the thing shorts or whatever you can unplug it.

I will leave poking a hole in the back of the fireplace for others to comment about.

Thanks for your reply!

Would installing a switch next to the mantle that turns on/off the outlet powering the blower in the basement suffice for electrical code?
 
I have never heard of his idea of punching through the back i have no idea if it would be against code or not its a new one.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JoeysDad
I have an interior fireplace like you with the PE Super insert in it. The back of the fireplace regularly warms up to 100+ F and gives off nice radiant heat into the stairwell behind it. I would suggest putting the Summit in together with an insulated liner and a block-off plate: https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/make-a-damper-sealing-block-off-plate/
Then just run it with the blower-off and get the effect of a large masonry heater. Be also aware that the modifications you consider (hole for plug, register) will render the fireplace unusable which may be a negative when you ever want to sell the house.
 
Second, electrical codes call for the plug for any plug connected device to be available in the same room as the device. A safety thing so that if the thing shorts or whatever you can unplug it.

Interesting. So the suggestion I have read here to run the cable through the ash dump into the basement is actually against code?
 
  • Like
Reactions: JoeysDad
Interesting. So the suggestion I have read here to run the cable through the ash dump into the basement is actually against code?

Yes I believe it is but i know its done many times and i don't really see a problem with it as long as there is a switch on the fan I wont do it personally because i believe its against code but i will show the homeowner how to pull the surround so they can plug it in after i leave and i tell them that i am telling them not to do it lol.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JoeysDad
I have an interior fireplace like you with the PE Super insert in it. The back of the fireplace regularly warms up to 100+ F and gives off nice radiant heat into the stairwell behind it. I would suggest putting the Summit in together with an insulated liner and a block-off plate: https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/make-a-damper-sealing-block-off-plate/
Then just run it with the blower-off and get the effect of a large masonry heater. Be also aware that the modifications you consider (hole for plug, register) will render the fireplace unusable which may be a negative when you ever want to sell the house.

Good points about the potential downsides to modifying the fireplace for the electrical cord or the vent. I certainly don't want to do anything here that becomes a finding on a home inspection and ends up costing me thousands at the negotiation table down the road. I'm paying way too much up front here to end up also getting hit in the end. My intentions are to not only save money with this install but to also have a sound selling point should I sell down the road. With the cost of oil around here and the unusually cold winters, a wood insert of this quality is highly desired. It would be a shame to have a such a desirable feature be a sore point in the resale.
 
I have an interior fireplace like you with the PE Super insert in it. The back of the fireplace regularly warms up to 100+ F and gives off nice radiant heat into the stairwell behind it. I would suggest putting the Summit in together with an insulated liner and a block-off plate: https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/make-a-damper-sealing-block-off-plate/
Then just run it with the blower-off and get the effect of a large masonry heater. Be also aware that the modifications you consider (hole for plug, register) will render the fireplace unusable which may be a negative when you ever want to sell the house.

I checked out the link you have here. That's a novel idea. I will definitely suggest the idea to my installer after getting the estimates and see how much more/less this type of application would run. Do you have an idea about how much this would cost in time and materials?
 
I checked out the link you have here. That's a novel idea. I will definitely suggest the idea to my installer after getting the estimates and see how much more/less this type of application would run. Do you have an idea about how much this would cost in time and materials?

A block off plate is not a novel idea it is the recommended way to install an insert and should be done by every installer. Many do not because it is kind of a pain and takes some time they dont want to take. And using the thermal mass is a time tested way to heat evenly the only way it will work well is if you are going to be burning all the time though it will take a long time to heat up that mass.
 
A block off plate is not a novel idea it is the recommended way to install an insert and should be done by every installer. Many do not because it is kind of a pain and takes some time they dont want to take. And using the thermal mass is a time tested way to heat evenly the only way it will work well is if you are going to be burning all the time though it will take a long time to heat up that mass.

It wasn't something discussed. However, it looks like the estimate does include block off insulation to stop heat loss to the chimney. The install (including materials) is over 2 grand in addition to 3 grand for the stove. Does this sound reasonable to you guys?

BTW, the cost for venting the back by removing brick was quoted at an additonal 600 dollars, bringing total install north of 2700. This is definitely more than I am comfortable with.
 
With out knowing the type of liner or lenght of the liner i cant say if the price is fair but it is not totally out of line. I would personally not cut through the back
 
However, it looks like the estimate does include block off insulation to stop heat loss to the chimney.

That's usually just some unfaced fiberglass stuffed into the damper area. A block-off plate with some mineral wool (e. g. Roxul found at Lowes) on top for added insulation is much better. If he does not want to make one, get one yourself and have him just install it.
And using the thermal mass is a time tested way to heat evenly the only way it will work well is if you are going to be burning all the time though it will take a long time to heat up that mass.

That's certainly true. Takes several hours of solid burning to get the back of the fireplace warm. On the other hand, even with the fire long out and a cold stove the fireplace radiates a nice, gentle heat into the room.
 
That's certainly true. Takes several hours of solid burning to get the back of the fireplace warm. On the other hand, even with the fire long out and a cold stove the fireplace radiates a nice, gentle heat into the room.
Absolutly it also gives a nice even heat without the spikes you normally get with most woodstoves
 
A simpler way to get heat into the adjacent room if heat radiated off the chimney is insufficient (it could be just right or maybe not) would be to put a fan on the floor of that room, facing toward the stove room. Run the fan on low speed. The displaced cooler air will be replace by warmer air from the stove room. But first I would just try it. It might be just fine without doing anything. If you are burning 24/7 and the heat loss in that room is not great temps may equalize nicely.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JoeysDad
With out knowing the type of liner or lenght of the liner i cant say if the price is fair but it is not totally out of line. I would personally not cut through the back

Chimney is approx. 15 feet (rancher) and the estimate states '300 series stainless steel liner'. Is that good stuff? Is it expensive?
 
300 series stainless liner is just about the most generic description i have ever heard and at 15' id say that price is high is he going to insulate the liner?
 
300 series stainless liner is just about the most generic description i have ever heard and at 15' id say that price is high is he going to insulate the liner?

To answer your question, yes, the liner is being insulated in the cost estimate.

Here is the full estimate wording (disregard the fact that the three numbers for the stove don't add up to the full stove cost - the math is wrong):

Estimate for Wood insert

Clean chimney

Clean chimney prior to installation

Modify the damper frame to accommodate the required liner diameter

Drill a hole through the wall or floor to hide the power supply cord

Install 300 series stainless steel liner system within the existing flue

Install specialized insulation materials around the liner system to satisfy manufacturers requirements

Block off the damper area around the liner system with specialized insulation to stop heat loss into chimney cavity

Install a top plate for liner support

Install mesh to prevent animal intrusion

Install a chimney cap to stop water intrusion

Deliver the wood stove

Assemble the wood stove

Test fire the wood stove and check operations

Installation Cost (includes labor & material) = $2,071.11

-----------------------

Estimate For Pacific Energy

Summit Insert Body - $2,235.00

Standard panels - $160.00

Black door - $500.00

Pacific Energy Cost = $3,068.70

Total Investment Cost = $5,139.81

* $200 factory rebate available till October 13th

** $600 upgrade to install rear vent to heat family room
 
A simpler way to get heat into the adjacent room if heat radiated off the chimney is insufficient (it could be just right or maybe not) would be to put a fan on the floor of that room, facing toward the stove room. Run the fan on low speed. The displaced cooler air will be replace by warmer air from the stove room. But first I would just try it. It might be just fine without doing anything. If you are burning 24/7 and the heat loss in that room is not great temps may equalize nicely.

Thanks for the suggestion.
 
I don't know prices of a PE products so I won't comment on that. The installation part when I was buying my insert my dealer was asking $600 for a basic install which I thought was ridiculous. Long story short I did the install by my self. No I didn't put a block off plate but I am planing on installing it this year, and I didn't insulate the liner either. I would not pay over $2000 for installation. But it's just my opinion. With help of the wonderful people here and some help from your friends you should be able to install it yourself and save some money.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: JoeysDad
We also discussed what to do about the current fireplace setup currently installed. It's a fireplace with a blower on it installed by the previous owner. It does very little to provide heat, and I certainly won't miss it being removed. However, the professional let me know that sometimes removing those leaves black lines and markings on the masonry behind it and that the standard size surround for the PE insert would not cover it all. He said sometimes it's possible to clean the markings off but that sometimes it's pretty stubborn and that people then go with an oversized surround. I am the kind of person to take a chance to clean it first before covering more stone than necessary and spending even more money. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to handle that?

To solve this problem, check out ChimneyRX Paint 'N Peel fireplace cleaner (www.chimneyrx.com). You paint on this stuff with the consistency similar to pudding, and then let it dry. Once dry, you peel it off. While it cures, it sucks soot and dirt out of the masonry and pulls it off with stuff when you remove it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JoeysDad
To solve this problem, check out ChimneyRX Paint 'N Peel fireplace cleaner (www.chimneyrx.com). You paint on this stuff with the consistency similar to pudding, and then let it dry. Once dry, you peel it off. While it cures, it sucks soot and dirt out of the masonry and pulls it off with stuff when you remove it.

Wow! Awesome! Thank you for the link!

Does anybody else have an idea if the estimate above seems reasonable? It's certainly more money than I can afford. Also, is there anything not on the listing for the install that anybody recommends be done?
 
Did the dealer break down the cost (and also manufacturer) of the liner, top plate, cap, insulation, and then the labor? $2k seems a little high to me for liner and installation.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JoeysDad
To answer your question, yes, the liner is being insulated in the cost estimate.

Here is the full estimate wording (disregard the fact that the three numbers for the stove don't add up to the full stove cost - the math is wrong):

Estimate for Wood insert

Clean chimney

Clean chimney prior to installation

Modify the damper frame to accommodate the required liner diameter

Drill a hole through the wall or floor to hide the power supply cord

Install 300 series stainless steel liner system within the existing flue

Install specialized insulation materials around the liner system to satisfy manufacturers requirements

Block off the damper area around the liner system with specialized insulation to stop heat loss into chimney cavity

Install a top plate for liner support

Install mesh to prevent animal intrusion

Install a chimney cap to stop water intrusion

Deliver the wood stove

Assemble the wood stove

Test fire the wood stove and check operations

Installation Cost (includes labor & material) = $2,071.11

-----------------------

Estimate For Pacific Energy

Summit Insert Body - $2,235.00

Standard panels - $160.00

Black door - $500.00

Pacific Energy Cost = $3,068.70

Total Investment Cost = $5,139.81

* $200 factory rebate available till October 13th

** $600 upgrade to install rear vent to heat family room

Here you can compare the price for the insert: (broken link removed) With shipping you end up at pretty much the same price. For the installation there is no harm in shopping around but don't expect miracles. You may be able to knock-off a few hundred but unless you are willing to do the install yourself there won't be major savings.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JoeysDad
I have been making the rounds getting estimates on a similar install so I have a few thoughts on your post. The rear venting idea is beyond my knowledge base but my only thought was that several dealers have told me that the inserts are designed to "push" the heat towards the front of the stove and out with the blowers so I'm not sure how much heat would really be coming through that rear vent but maybe your installer has experience/success with doing this. The quote is right on par with what I have been told, somewhere around $3000 for the stove and $2000 for the install. I have gotten cheaper estimates but they were not insulating the liner so that was the difference. I think the cost of any particular stove is going to be pretty constant, especially this time of year. According to my research thus far the parts for the install (liner w insulation, stove connection, block off plate, top plate, cap) could not cost more than $1000 especially since we are installing in a ranch and only need 15' of liner. At least two of the estimates I got quoted a 25' liner as part of the install "package." Right there I'd be paying for 10' of liner that would not be needed. So I am leaning towards installing myself which I am assuming will save me somewhere around $1000, other than that option $4500 - $5500 seems to be the going rate.

I am also looking at the two PE stoves that you are as either is an option for our setup. My question for you is: did your installer talk at all about the summit being too large and overheating the room it is in while attempting to supply heat for the adjacent rooms? In many of the posts people are saying they wish they opted for a larger insert, I have yet to read one where someone says theirs was too large/hot but personal conversations have led me to believe this could be an issue.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JoeysDad
Status
Not open for further replies.