Getting ready for cold weather

[CatieG]

Hurricane Sandy passing through and having no electric and no heat with two little ones made us realize we need something more reliable for heat. We're thinking of installing a small/medium sized wood stove in the living room. For wall coverage I am thinking of having 1 in. spacers and durock/ hardyboard/ similar product covered in a slate tile or ceramic/ porcelin... anything that will increase our R-Value! What have people used in the past for spacers?? I have seen nylon spacers and aluminum spacers for sale but I'm sure Aluminum would conduct too much heat to the wall I am trying to protect! For the floor I am thinking 3-4 sheets of said board on the existing wood floor also covered in the chosen tile. We are going for simple, clean and safe... Without spending thousands. Also the reason we are doing all of this ourselves. Any ideas from people who have done this in the past?? We are also thinking of doing a wall pass through because I do not want to touch the roof this close to the cold season. I'm not a pro at cutting diagonal surfaces and the roof isn't the one I want to practice on! We do plan on having a tall chimney anyway due to the location of the stove. Any and all input is very much appreciated Thanks in advance!

 

[PapaDave]

Well first, welcome to the Hearth CatieG.
Others should chime in on where to get the spacers, but you could try a stove shop, or search online.
As to the floor, you'll need to follow the CTC (clearance to combustible) values in the manual for whatever stove you get (what's that gonna' be?)
Some only require ember protection and others require a pretty high R-value. Nex-Gen durock has an R-value of .39, so 3 layers would give you 1.17 and 4 is 1.56. The tile is only .02.
Post your stove choice(s) and we can help more. Oh, and the mantra around here is "pictures, or it didn't happen".
You found the right place.

 

[pen]

Your hearth requirements will depend on the stove you choose. I'd suggest picking your stove first, that way, you'll see in the manual what is called for. You could always make it even heavier duty than that if you want.

Also, for the wall board, you nailed it for leaving a 1 inch air space behind if necessary for clearances, don't forget about the one inch on the bottom also for air circulation.

As Papa said, Welcome to the site!

pen

 

[PapaDave]

don't forget about the one inch on the bottom also for air circulation

Top and bottom, isn't it, pen? Or, can it be bottom and sides? Seems like convection will work either way.

 

[CatieG]

Well the stove I had found turns out is not EPA tested. I refuse to get anything that isn't EPA tested and approved. I really like the Englander 13-NCH. I'd like to find it less expensive than Home Depot has it though to keep costs down...But so far it's my favorite; has everything I want and its 'pretty'

 

[CatieG]

I plan on leaving space top bottom and sides. I'm hoping to put this in the middle of a wall.

 

[pen]

Well the stove I had found turns out is not EPA tested. I refuse to get anything that isn't EPA tested and approved. I really like the Englander 13-NCH. I'd like to find it less expensive than Home Depot has it though to keep costs down...But so far it's my favorite; has everything I want and its 'pretty'

The 13 is a great lil stove, and it has higher hearth pad requirements than many stoves on the market, which is good to know before you start building.

If you wanted to create a new thread, where you provide the layout of your house, and if you are looking to heat full time, part time, emergencies only, etc, then we could give you some other stove options as well, or even tell you if the 13 will make you happy or not.

Also, regardless of your use, whatever EPA / UL listed stove you pic, will only work well if you have well seasoned wood. The vast majority of folks selling "seasoned wood," aren't. If you try and burn fuel that isn't dried properly in a modern stove, it's a frustrating / unfulfilling experience. If you can't find access to good fuel right now to get things ready, then perhaps consider purchasing some ecobricks, biobricks, etc to get you through the first year while the wood you do buy / scrounge and get cut, split, and stacked, seasons.

Top and bottom, isn't it, pen? Or, can it be bottom and sides? Seems like convection will work either way.

I've always seen top and bottom, hmm, not sure if one were to leave the sides open, instead of the top, if that would make a proper install or not. Have to look that up.

pen

 

[PapaDave]

^^^^^^ What he said.
If we knew your house size, layout, etc., the suggestions will start flowing like booze at an open bar.

 

[CatieG]

Pen I will be doing that new thread momentarily!! Thanks!!

 

[bostock]

PapaDave said: ↑
Top and bottom, isn't it, pen? Or, can it be bottom and sides? Seems like convection will work either way.
I've always seen top and bottom, hmm, not sure if one were to leave the sides open, instead of the top, if that would make a proper install or not. Have to look that up.

I've always seen top/bottom, too - the idea being the cool air will naturally spill in the bottom and the warm air drafts it upwards and out, creating the convection..

 

[Don2222]

Hello

Did you sign up for the Maryland wood stove purchasing assistance program? Getting some $$ sure helps!

See details
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...yland-wood-pellet-stove-rebate-program.93319/

 

[CatieG]

so my idea for having the sides and top and bottom open isn't a good one... dang. I figured it would look nice and work well... air flow being maximised. Can I just use the concrete board to close the sides?

 

[CatieG]

I saw that the other day on the Maryland gov't website. It has a limit of 50K for the whole state... I wasn't going to try. Guess we should though huh?

 

[firefighterjake]

As mentioned . . . what stove you will purchase will determine what you need for a hearth.

Also, some stoves do not require wall protection . . . and yet have close clearances . . . again . . .depends on what you go with for a stove.

 

[CatieG]

Looking at the Englander 13... Open to opinions... I have more details in another thread.

 

[pen]

so my idea for having the sides and top and bottom open isn't a good one... dang. I figured it would look nice and work well... air flow being maximised. Can I just use the concrete board to close the sides?

Wouldn't hurt a bit doing it that way. Sides could be left open, or not. Up to you. The side should be outside of the range for clearance to combustibles, so it doesn't matter.

 

[CatieG]

.

yay! that makes my design so much easier... I have it in my head and on paper what I want to do but the details are still getting there.

 

[Don2222]

I saw that the other day on the Maryland gov't website. It has a limit of 50K for the whole state... I wasn't going to try. Guess we should though huh?

You sure should, I got $600 from the State of NH for a more efficient Oil boiler. Nice getting a check for $600 !!

We just found a big mistake on the pellet stove list that qualifies for rebate on the state web site!
See
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/...yland-wood-pellet-stove-rebate-program.93319/

 

[EatenByLimestone]

When I was at Lowes last weekend they were starting to discount their stoves. Maybe you could walk in and pick one up for less than you think.

Some HD managers will negotiate off season to get stuff off their floor also. Just like you would with a used car, comment on any cracked firebricks, paint scratches, etc. (Firebricks are $2.50 each at a cement yard so getting them to take money off for it is a good deal.) I was able to get $100 off my NC 30 by asking nicely.

Matt

 

[begreen]

so my idea for having the sides and top and bottom open isn't a good one... dang. I figured it would look nice and work well... air flow being maximised. Can I just use the concrete board to close the sides?

Just top and bottom are sufficient. It needs to ventilate by natural convection. An easy 1" non-combustible shim is to make 3" wide, long strips cut off from the sheet of 1/2" Durock. Double them up to create 1" thick shims that you screw to the wall studs.