Got a cathedral ceiling question..

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here

TNFarmhouse

New Member
Dec 5, 2018
18
East Tennessee
Hello all! I have a question.. I am wanting to install a stove in the corner of a family room. It has a cathedral ceiling on a 12/12 pitch.. I want to put the stove in a corner and run the stove pipe up and along the roof line in the interior until I reach near the peak and then exit through the roof. The reason is to be aesthetically pleasing on the exterior because if I bring the chimney straight up from the corner I will have a rather large stack above the roof line and It will be at the bottom of the roof on a 12/12 pitch.. I don't think this will look the best. I found this old thread (I couldn't reply or bump it) that really explains closely what I am trying to do..

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/wood-stove-install-cathedral-ceiling.124206/

I just wanted to get some opinions and see if there are any reasons I definitely should not install this way... please don't hold back, I wanna know if there are some blatant "wrongs" to this style of install. Thank you!
 
I remember that thread. It may be the longest interior connector run we have seen here. All the same caveats apply to this situation. Is there any possibility of moving the stove more inboard?

What stove is this for? Some cat stoves run a cooler flue temp. The long connector run could drop flue temps too low resulting in heavy creosote buildup.
 
The corner setup is really the ideal location. I am not totally opposed to making a straight up run, that would just put about 10'-12' of chimney above the roof line due to the pitch. I'm not sure I would be totally pleased with that look. Another thing to consider is if I do the straight shot up then I would have to clean the chimney bottom to top, but if I do like the thread suggests I can clean top to bottom from the peak of the roof. The stove for this setup is not completely set in stone because I still have to make that purchase. More than likely it will be a Jotul.. Oslo probably, but still considering the F400.
 
I am sure that the setup in the link is not the ideal setup vs going straight through the roof, but what I really want to know is does this style setup pose any severe risks? I know it won't operate as smoothly or efficiently as straight up, and I know there will be some things I have to give up. But, are there any reasons you would not install this way other than aesthetics or preference?
 
The Oslo is not ideal for a corner install. The side door must be locked. Maybe look at the front loading Jotul F55 as an alternative? As noted, the risks of the long diagonal run are creosote condensation from too much cooling of the flue gases. Double-wall stove pipe is a necessity here to keep the flue gases hotter.

I agree that a 10-12' shiny pipe is going to look awkward. FYI, Cleaning bottom up with a sooteater is easy on stoves that have a bypass or an easily removable baffle.
 
Last edited:
A minimum of 36" is required according to the manual. It also says the use of the side door is prohibited in a corner install. That will stop an inspection right there.
 
I'd be surprised if you cleaned your chimney from the top down on a roof with a 12/12 pitch unless you have a ladder laying down on the roof to gain you access. I have a section of 12/12 pitch over our living room and I can't walk on it.
 
No you definitely can't walk on it, but the front of the house has a wrap around porch and 3 large dormers. So I can walk the porch roof and the valleys of the dormers until I reach the peak where I can stand on the peak to clean from the top down.
 
If you use single wall connector that long you are begging for troubles. You can suspend class A from the support box with some brands of chimney. Aesthetics being secondary to function in all cases. You'll get used to how a setup looks but never get used to troublesome function. Move stove closer to the peak for a straight shot or you'll regret it.
 
Is it asking for problems if I do a corner install with straight vertical pipe through the roof? Would be looking at about 5' of stove pipe then through cathedral ceiling with about 12' of chimney after exiting the roof line....
 
Better get a cap that a soot eater will clean sufficiently.
 
That's my Oslo corner installation. The chimney, single wall, goes straight up to the ceiling box where it becomes double wall. Looks great inside. The ceiling / roof is 12 /12 pitch. I have a side porch roof 5/12 pitch.it intersects the main roof. The chimney is tall at the back of the house. It has braces back to the main roof. Actually we think it looks fine for a woods cabin. The only concern is cleaning. I can do a top down by removing the top section. The shed side roof that I can stand on makes this possible. I would't do what your proposing.
 
Thank you for all the replies. You all have confirmed my hesitations. I will still do a corner install because it fits my house/room the best, but I will do a straight vertical run with the chimney and just use the necessary roof supports.

Now to decide on exactly the right stove... Since the side door of the Oslo would be useless...and it's probably too big anyway... I'm trying to decide between the F400 Castine or the F45.

Is the cigar burn of the F45 a bigger deal than I may be thinking it is? Is it a reasonable fear of a log rolling into the glass of the F400 and breaking it?

Also!... If any of you could post some pics of your Chimney from the outside it would really help me with explaining this to the wife!
 
How will the stove be run? 24/7 for heating or mostly nights and weekend? How large an area will it be heating?
 
Supplemental heat...mostly nights and weekends. But I do live way out in the country so power outages are a real possibility. I'd like to have "somewhat" whole house heating capability.
 
How large an area?
 
About 1500-1600 sqft....but all very open with cathedral ceilings. Also have 2 heat pumps with air returns in open area on main floor and upstairs I will use to circulate the air
 
The cathedral ceiling is effectively doubling the heated volume plus it creates a heat trap near the peak. The F400 or F45 will work for supplemental. The larger F50 or F55 would also work well and provide more coverage for when the deep cold sinks in from the north.
 
Small world. I have a cabin with a 12:12 pitch, and a corner install. I am not too far from you I am in western NC.

[Hearth.com] Got a cathedral ceiling question..


It looks OK to me.



[Hearth.com] Got a cathedral ceiling question..

I did a corner install with the Oslo. As you can see I do have a hammered copper heat shield on the wall. It is 12 inches from the close corner of the stove to the heat shield. There is no provision for inspection of a wood stove here in western North Carolina so I did this stove the way I wanted. I have been running this stove for 3 years and I burn a lot of wood. It works fine. No problem adding wood into the side door.

I do have single wall pipe inside the house, no problems.
 
Last edited:
We love the Oslo. With your size of house I think the Oslo would work well.

I know my installation is against the Jotul rules. I hired my install [although, I built the log cabin] with a reputable installer from Asheville. I thought he might refuse to do the corner install, but I went ahead and bought the Oslo. He installed it and didn't say a thing about the Jotul specs.
I can't understand the restriction that Jotul puts on this fine stove for a corner install, so I went ahead and did it my way.

I will say this, the Oslo is the sloppiest stove I have ever had and I have had 7 stoves. Ashes will spill out onto the hearth.
Also, it comes with an ash pan, it is difficult to use so I don't use it. Just let it fill up and keep it full all winter.
When the ashes start to pile up in the stove, I use a big soup spoon and spoon them into a metal bucket.
In April I dump out the ash pan.

These drawbacks are minor the Oslo is a great stove. The fire view is fantastic. Five gold stars for the Jotul Oslo.

Whereabouts are you in east Tennessee? I am just over the line, between Hot Springs, and Marshall.
 
I loved the Oslo at first look.. it would hands down be my first choice, but I know my wife will not be pleased at all if the stove cooks us out of the main living area, so that's a concern... But I could always control the temp with the size fire I burn and just learn thru trial and error.

I am in Cumberland Gap, TN... Right where TN-KY-VA all meet on the map
 
What is the size of the room that the stove will be in? Is this structure well-insulated?