Green mountain 60 NO AIR CONTROL

[Strickly Anonomous]

Brand new GM60 stove. New chimney line installed by manufacturer rep dealer. Huge roaring flame as long as door is cracked. Reading other threads and wondering if I was taken. Will be calling hearthstone later today to discuss options.
Wood is fine. Draft is fine as long as door is cracked. It's due for first service check this month. Hoping they find something or can educate me.
I upgraded from an old earth stove. It was not as efficient but I could control it
By design of the airflow was right the glass would stay clean. That's an issue as well

 

[neverstop]

Brand new GM60 stove. New chimney line installed by manufacturer rep dealer. Huge roaring flame as long as door is cracked. Reading other threads and wondering if I was taken. Will be calling hearthstone later today to discuss options.
Wood is fine. Draft is fine as long as door is cracked. It's due for first service check this month. Hoping they find something or can educate me.
I upgraded from an old earth stove. It was not as efficient but I could control it
By design of the airflow was right the glass would stay clean. That's an issue as well

What is your installation? Chimney height from flue exit, interior/exterior chimney, is the chimney lined and is it insulated, top/rear flue? What moisture content is your wood? (measured at room temp on a fresh split on the freshly split face)

I have a Hearthstone Shelburne which shares a firebox with the GM60 and came from an old VC Vigilant. I had similar results as you've described on my first couple of burns; raging flames that died once I closed the door. Once I changed to a top down cold start method with sleeper pieces on the bottom to elevate the wood stack I've had much better results. The E/W loading of the stove can reduce air flow from the primary air inlet in the front center of the stove. By elevating the stack on sleepers on a cold start it allows air to flow much better into the wood stack in the firebox.

I still crack the door on startup, but once the splits below the kindling layers has established flames I close the door. I'm still working through proper operation of the stove compared to my old "smoke dragon" with the guidance of this forum.

I also have some smoke rollout issues when I open the door that per guidance of this forum I am in the midst of trying to fix (need to insulate chimney liner and extend chimney).

 

[begreen]

Brand new GM60 stove. New chimney line installed by manufacturer rep dealer. Huge roaring flame as long as door is cracked. Reading other threads and wondering if I was taken. Will be calling hearthstone later today to discuss options.
Wood is fine. Draft is fine as long as door is cracked. It's due for first service check this month. Hoping they find something or can educate me.
I upgraded from an old earth stove. It was not as efficient but I could control it
By design of the airflow was right the glass would stay clean. That's an issue as well

How has the firewood's internal moisture content been checked?

Describe the flue system that the stove is connected to in detail.

 

[GM80NY]

I think it is the design. I don't think they really are made to allow a lot of air in unless the stove is going good. I have other posts on this but what's your procedure for starting fires? On a stove that's completely out I have to keep the door cracked until the flames whoosh around and crack it open slowly a little more (max 2 inches) then let it rage for a minute or two before I can close it fully and it will flame by itself. If the stove is going good and good amount of coals I just open air to full and load and close it and when I see some flames starting I lower the air to med-low.

 

[weatherguy]

Start with the simplest first, make sure firewood is dry, then tell us flue size after that it gets more complicated.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

If your glass is black and you need to keep the door open to keep the fire lit, I suspect your wood is not "fine".

 

[GM80NY]

As for the black glass I have yet to light a smaller fire without the glass building up black or white stuff.

The only time ive seen the glass clean itself is if you get the fire hot enough where the cat gage is in the upper quarter of the white area. Even then you will get a little black in the bottom left and right corners. Im still playing around moving coals in the back or the front to try and keep the glass as clean as possible. It looks so sweet when the reburn is working and the flames dance in the top.

The only thing I havent tried is maybe sawing all my wood to a length of maybe 10 inches since i can fit front to back 13 inches and seeing if that will help. If you put fresh wood in and its near the glass while its lighting it will dirty the glass up.

Also I bought green wood this year to season for next winter so I will see if that makes any difference but like I’ve said before all the wood ive split/tested has been 20% or less so theres that.

 

[GM80NY]

Also about professionals. I was told my installer was the best they had and I don't think he knew much about this stove. He did a good job installing it.

To be honest its rare to find guys in the service arena you can truly count on. Everyone has specialist written on their trucks but more often than not they know just as much as you do and will just take shots in the dark. It will truly be on you to learn about your stove. Read the manual and try to talk to the manufacturers.

 

[Strickly Anonomous]

What is your installation? Chimney height from flue exit, interior/exterior chimney, is the chimney lined and is it insulated, top/rear flue? What moisture content is your wood? (measured at room temp on a fresh split on the freshly split face)

I have a Hearthstone Shelburne which shares a firebox with the GM60 and came from an old VC Vigilant. I had similar results as you've described on my first couple of burns; raging flames that died once I closed the door. Once I changed to a top down cold start method with sleeper pieces on the bottom to elevate the wood stack I've had much better results. The E/W loading of the stove can reduce air flow from the primary air inlet in the front center of the stove. By elevating the stack on sleepers on a cold start it allows air to flow much better into the wood stack in the firebox.

I still crack the door on startup, but once the splits below the kindling layers has established flames I close the door. I'm still working through proper operation of the stove compared to my old "smoke dragon" with the guidance of this forum.

I also have some smoke rollout issues when I open the door that per guidance of this forum I am in the midst of trying to fix (need to insulate chimney liner and extend chimney).

Chimney is 15 ft, exterior lined and insulated with a 6 in diameter line. To flue. Wood moisture measures less than 10%.

I will try the smaller pieces with the aid of some standoff pieces on the bottom to see if that helps