Hampton GC60 slider Damper adjustment

[JSB52]

I have a Hampton GC60 which is similar to the M55
Not burning correctly so i purchased a Granger 2000 Mag.

Went through the set up of running on heat setting 5 for 1 hour.
Combustion and feed trimmed to default 3.

Reading should be .15 - .17
I am getting .20 - .205. with the combustion air set to 1.
At default of 3 is reads .215 and a bit higher.
I have the slider damper completely closed..
How do i adjust this for a good burn.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Lake Girl]

You might try taking a wander through old posts using the search box at the top right. Use generic terms like wc

What is your exhaust configuration and do you have an OAK?

 

[JSB52]

My Hampton GC60 is vented up the chimney (existing fireplace).
No OAK - in-house air.
I tried testing with the door open for extra air the the MAG reading is not affected still holds between .20 - .21

 

[Terminus]

Hi JSB52,
I was curious if you ever made any progress getting your GC60 closer to the manuals suggested 0.15wc-0.17wc using your MAG gauge? I've also got the Hampton GC60 and a gauge on the way. I've been using the stove for almost 2 winters with the damper set to wide open. Granted its burning well but I've really wanted to know objectively how well its burning since it was first installed. Like you our stove is vented straight up the chimney (4" Dia) with a 14" horizontal run from stove to vertical run. I routinely clean the stove thoroughly (including the first 6ft of flue). Anyway thanks for posting and I look forward to any updates you have!

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I have a Hampton GC60 which is similar to the M55
Not burning correctly so i purchased a Granger 2000 Mag.

Went through the set up of running on heat setting 5 for 1 hour.
Combustion and feed trimmed to default 3.

Reading should be .15 - .17
I am getting .20 - .205. with the combustion air set to 1.
At default of 3 is reads .215 and a bit higher.
I have the slider damper completely closed..
How do i adjust this for a good burn.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Are you absolutely certain that your damper has a full range of motion, there have been cases where folks have thought their damper was fully closed only to discover it wasn't due to various reasons such as the control linkage being loose or ash in the slider run or the slider being out of its channel or being prevented from being closed due to other parts of the stove being against it . Some things you might want to rule out.

 

[Terminus]

Hi Smokey, I was thinking the same thing when I read his post earlier. Clearly I'm not an expert but if the damper was completely closed as he mentioned wouldn't you loose all vacuum in the burn chamber, in fact wouldn't you very quickly get positive pressure given the air blowing through the burn pot (the air would have no place to go so pressure would build up assuming there were no leaks)? I'm just curious, thank you for your help!

 

[ohbix]

When the damper is fully closed, the opening into the exhaust channel is 1" wide. I think Scott mentioned that he often sets the opening to 1.5", then adjusts from there.

 

[Terminus]

If I had taken a few minutes to think about it or better yet went and looked at the damper on my GC60 I would have figured that out, thank you for helping an idiot! It makes perfect sense as the damper only has about (and I'm guessing) 2" of adjustment and the exhaust channel is clearly wider than that - thanks again ohbix!

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Always pays to look and to verify what the situation actually is on your stove.

I just tossed out things that in the past have been found to cause things not to be as expected in the damper area.