hampton hi 300 blues

[b4burner]

Maybe because I'm from New York or maybe because I've read some things on this forum I am at the point of not trusting any of two dealers that are somewhat local to me, The one mom and pop shop ( WHO LOOKED AT THE JOB) guy doesn't think I need liner insulation but if I want it it's another 500 dollars but will not install a flue collar(BLOCK OFF PLATE). You know the steel thing that the manual says has to be there(ONLY ON FACTORY BUILT FIREPLACES mine is exterior wall masonry 2 stories). He also will do some damage to my existing fireplace ie removing the fresh air intake(I guess it's a DAMPER it's in the lower left hand corner of the fireplace and lets air in to feed a fire) because it's in the way and cutting out the flue piece. The other guy is a bit overpriced but will install the flue collar (BLOCK OFF PLATE) and seal off the top. He gave a price without looking at the job. I am not sure where to get this stove mail order and really don't want to because I can't seem to figure out how to connect the liner to the stove with such a tight fit. My best friend has offered to help me with it but he is really a busy person. When I measured the fireplace opening I didn't think the fresh air vent (damper) would be an issue. I didn't ask the overpriced guy many questions like will the liner be insulated and just realized the blower on this insert is an option, and would really like two speeds of course increasing the cost. I realize many of my questions are already addressed in the forum maybe just not all at once. Why do people from here do things 1/2 azzed just to make their life easy and get the money? Does anyone have any pride in what they do anymore? Btw it is an exterior wall masonry chimney (2 stories) installed after the house was built. Any help or comments greatly appreciated!

Edited for terminology in parenthesis 5/9/08 7am -- Measuring will take some doing! thanks 4 quick replys

 

[cocey2002]

I am running into the same problems with the local dealers that sell Hampton. I get the feeling these guys are a bunch of crooks. I went to 4 dealers and they all were pretty dishonest and didn't want to do the job correctly. I love the look of the Hampton but I'm almost ready to look at other companies.

 

[STOVEGUY11]

Ok I can see there is frustration with both of you guys with the Hampton (FPI) dealers. Dont give up, its an excellent product and something you would be happy with if it is installed properly. Out of all the companies are carry. I find FPI has the best customer service. There a hands on bunch of guys and really stand by ther product. If there is a question your dealer is not asking, then I would call FPI's 1-800 #

 

[STOVEGUY11]

Burner? What is the steel flue collar you speak of? The appliance adaptor?

 

[begreen]

This could be a misunderstanding of terminology. I'm also trying to sort this one out and wondering if the flue collar = block off plate? Perhaps does fresh air intake = fireplace damper?

Best to take a deep breath and get the terms and specifications down. There are a lot of variables with a liner installation. For example, without seeing the actual chimney how would he know the condition of the chimney, whether it needs cleaning (this is a must!), whether he can use rigid or flex liner or whether there is room for an insulation blanket, whether is is offset or a straight-shot, etc. If you have all this data, then approach the installer with these specs. Something like:

I have a Hampton i300 insert installation in an exterior chimney that has a tile size of X by X(he'll need the flue tile size that is in the chimney) and is (one or two) stories tall. It will need to be cleaned first. I would like a quality stainless insulated liner installed, capped and sealed properly at the top and with a block-off plate sealing off the damper area. The liner is to be properly connected and screwed to the insert.

Then take another breath. This will cost you. Perhaps in the range of $1200-1500 depending on spec and difficulty.

 

[pulldownclaw]

B4,
I have the Hampton and I had quite an experience getting it installed correctly. I know the flue collar adaptor you speak of. Hampton says it's "required", but has it as an option I believe. Same as the blower. Pretty ridiculous. I love the stove but they shouldn't be trying to nickel and dime you to death. The blower should be included, I got mine "thrown in" as a bonus after we gave the rep enough grief. The stove would be completely naked without it, unless they just give you a faceplate to cover up the gaping hole in the front of your stove.

But, back to the flue collar adaptor, I just bought my liner online and used the stove adaptor that came with the liner kit and stove cemented the crap out of it. Not pretty, but does the job. Search some of my threads to see my story. Here's the one of my liner/blockoff plate installation:

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/12405/

Good luck! Oh, and we love the stove. :coolsmile:

 

[jadm]

I just had a Jotul installed over this past winter. THe dealer did not install it. I had my chimney sweep do the job. I have used him for several years and trust him - he is a fireman and does chimney stuff on the side with his son.

You might want to check out sweeps in your area and find out if they do installs too. I know many of the businesses around my area contract out the work and many of the installers are sweeps too. Just be sure you get someone with experience who you trust and will do the job the way you want it done. Check to make sure they have insurance etc, etc and that their work is guaranteed.....

You can essentially buy your choice of wood burner from anyone this way. It is wise to pick a dealer who will be there after the sale is done too in the event you have problems in the future and, unfortunately, you can't always tell who that will be....

 

[cocey2002]

Just an FYI that hampton is offering a free blower with the stove the first 2 weeks of September. The blower is $400 so waiting until then will save you some but probably the stove will go up by that time.

 

[woodsie8]

I actually looked in the yellow pages and came up with probably 20 names of installers. I called all the places that sold stoves and asked them for names of people to install it. I didn't have to go with the people that sold it, to me.

 

[b4burner]

Thank you all for the quick answers...The fresh air intake is not a damper, like I said after editing my first post, it sits on the bottom left hand side of the fireplace about 1/2 way in and leads out the side of the fireplace with screens in where there ought to be cement and allows air to be fed in to the fire bottom from outside...Let me see if I can't measure the flue chimney size (tile size)?...How do I tell if it is going to be offset? Is it a measuring math problem...Oh and the best part I saw a mile away? Neither installer both on regency's web site as installers will be getting a permit! Now because of the nightmare I experienced with a builder I know my town follows New York State building code- I was told by them any project costing more than $1,000 would require a permit although I don't know if they have inspectors for this type of thing. The mom and pop guy said "well you alredy have a fireplace" as his excuse for not needing a permit. I can't say I blame them though because the town is hard to deal with and ideally they (the town) are protecting me by inspecting for correctness. I would not trust them to inspect a lincoln log cabin however...What is the purpose of the block off plate at the damper anyway? I guess the manual has only the bare minimum of things needed to install the unit-- block off plate in existing masonry fireplace/ insulated liner not required by the manufacturer...btw It seems that the liner wrap will fit if I can have one for 500 bucks! There is a terracotta liner? measuring about 12in x 10in after a (broken link removed to http://www.kschimney.com/store/scim/prod/386/d/lg_386.jpg) type damper that tapers to the liner. That seems like an awful lot of space to leave empty. There also seems to be a lot of creosote on the inside which would surely make me feel better if it were cleaned. The mom and pop guy said the seal around the face plate would make the block off plate unneeded? Please comment some more!

 

[begreen]

The misunderstanding was mine b4, not your's. pulldownclaw had the right definition. Sounds like you have lots of room for a liner and if it's not offset it could be a rigid liner for most of the way.

The block off plate is your option, but it's function is different from sealing the faceplate. The idea is to stop heat from the insert from heating outdoors via the chimney by blocking it off at the damper. That's important with an exterior chimney in a cold climate. It can make the difference between barely being able to heat the house and having enough heat when it gets very cold outside.

Here's a link with more information.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Seal_Fireplace_Damper/

 

[cocey2002]

I ended up pulling the trigger finally on the Hampton this morning. $3685 with free blower and I had to get the oversized faceplate. The faceplate was an extra $500. This price does not include install. They said install would cost around $600-700. Looking to get it installed sometime in June when I'm off. Thanks for everyones help. I PM'd many members that were of great help.

 

[High_Iron]

Congrats!! You will LOVE the Hampton. Once the winter rolls around and it is below freezing outside, you will forget what you paid.

 

[Zevon from Warren]

We've been looking at a Hampton HI300 insert at a West Springfield, Ma dealer. I'm going to have to ask more questions, after reading these posts, but I was certain it came with the blower. My question concerned the faceplate. The standard faceplate is 30" high. The most exact number I came up with for my opening was 29 7/8" to the lower edge of the brick, about 29 1/2" to the lintel- if that's the correct term. The dealer said I would need the oversized faceplate, but I can't understand why. If the faceplate is purely cosmetic, and it just kind of sits on the front the the fireplace to close off the gap, I would think, as long as its not smaller than the opening, it should be fine.

Also, I'm told I need to use a flue liner, to provide proper draft, ease of maintenance and cleaning, etc. I was told by the dealer if I did not use a steel liner inside my chimney, I'd wish I had later.

Hope I'm not jumping some one else's forum here, or changing the topic inappropriately. I'm just looking for answers, and they're hard to come by.

"Sure, I can introduce you to Warren!"
- Frank Zappa

 

[woodsie8]

Oh my gosh, I paid $2900 including the oversize faceplate, for the HI300. The install tho, was much more............ all my bids ended up in the range of $2300 to almost $5000. I chose the $2300. By the time I am done, it will be about $5200. I hear it will be worth it. they are installing, as we speak..........

 

[b4burner]

Just my luck, the cheaper installer wants to put "insulation" in as a block off plate,which i read on this forum is not a good idea "a block off plate is not required" nor is a permit...(i highly doubt that since in the town where I live they use NYS building codes and they say any project costing more than 1000 needs a permit!). It also seems that the price of these stoves are pretty much set by the manufacturer with only slight differences in install prices probably due to materials used. This fact alone makes me wonder about the chimney liner qualities, (should I demand rigid? insulation of the liner is 500 extra). All this makes this whole thing all the more frustrating! I am really starting to think if I should call the sweeper I know to ask his opinion as perplexed had suggested so I will keep you all informed of my progress which has been hampered by overtime....Thank you for all the replies again! I also didn't know I had to inform my homeowners insurance company?

 

[stanleyjohn]

If your fireplace was built to NFPA 211 code then a insulated liner is not required.There is a big debate here on how much the insulating of the liner really helps.In my case and some others i know we dont have a insulated liner and the insert does just fine.When i had my insert installed they also stuffed the sides of the chimney damper with a fireproof insulation.To each his own but i havent noticed any smell from it when the stove was running at high temp.If the insulation is packed tight!it should never fall out,In my basement the top rafters are stuffed with insulation (just stuffed) and none has fallin in 10 yrs.Best of luck in your instalation.

 

[b4burner]

okay here is an update...I am getting the hampton hi300 in cast iron finish with the block off plate and a duraflex steel liner with insulation installed for 3300 cash. 2 story exterior chimney. Thank you for all the help here!

 

[begreen]

Great b4. Hope all goes well, that should be a really nice setup. Take pictures!

 

[b4burner]

Well I guess I should have done it myself. I am embarrassed to even put this stuff on here but I am perhaps for recommendations and to save others a nightmare or two. My offset liner is not secured to my hi300 which I was informed of by a chimney sweep. I did not realize the L shaped brackets that connect the liner to the stove should have been included (AND USED)with the stove/liner. I had to work the day of the install so I was not here to see anything. I also did not know the top piece of the unit (top faceplate) just pulls up off the insert exposing the connection between the flue liner and the top of the stove. Fortunately there is 7 inches of room between the masonry and stove to play with. I stuck a camera up there to see a horrific sight! The block off plate is not blocking anything. I am very aggravated mostly at myself for not taking the day to watch this install intently. when I have a bit more time I will post pics, but I kind of think I know where to start? Either call the installer or fix the block off, and secure the liner to the stove. Any clue on size of screw in the stove top? Thank you all again!