Harman accentra fs 2003 2 blink status

[karhu61]

Hello! I have a 2003 accentra fs that I recently gave a new control board. It has been thoroughly cleaned and vacuumed. The Chimney was cleaned a few weeks ago. It has the black esp ,also replaced recently, so I made sure the #5 dip switch is set correctly. When I power it on it cycles through ignition with no trouble. However when it reaches150 degrees on the side of stove thermometer it throws a two blink status code and goes into a sort of limp mode. It will run ok for a few minutes then throw the code again. I replaced the vacuum switch today and it did not fix the problem. I'm wondering if I purchased a bad circuit board.
Thank You for your help
Julian

 

[DAKSY]

Take a look at this:

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[jackman]

I would make sure the stove and vent is completely cleaned. If someone else did the cleaning it may not have been done properly. When my stove runs poorly it is always corrected by performing a deep clean making sure the entire vent including all the elbows has been completely cleared.

 

[karhu61]

I would make sure the stove and vent is completely cleaned. If someone else did the cleaning it may not have been done properly. When my stove runs poorly it is always corrected by performing a deep clean making sure the entire vent including all the elbows has been completely cleared.

 

[karhu61]

Jackman,
I cleaned the stove and intend to clean it again tomorrow just to be sure.
Thank you for the quick reply
Julian

 

[karhu61]

Take a look at this:

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Daksy,
Where would I find this switch? This is a pre ddm stove circa 2003. (UPDATE) I looked in the manual and it looks like the 2 blink status on the original board is caused by the J2 jumper not being connected. Is it possible that this is the case with the new replacement boards? To quote from the manual " 2 blinks Indicates the feeder position switch jumper is not connected. Without this jumper the unit will only burn at a minimum rate." This seems to be exactly what is happening with the stove. Any advice on checking this would be much appreciated.
Best wishes
Julian

 

[DAKSY]

Look at this diagram:

 

[karhu61]

Daksy,
I did not see a switch like the one in your photo. Is it possible on the old Accentras they did not have that switch. In any case this stove does turn off when told to. I believe I am running into an intractable problem here. The stove has reached its repairabilty limit without major modification. The circuit board uses a red esp probe. The red probe will not fit into the hole provided and it must be drilled out. You can set dip switch 5 on the circuit board for a black probe however for that to work you need a jumper at j2 which does not exist on the new boards. So my choices are attempting to solder the jumper on to the new board or drilling through hardened steel to fit the red probe. Or of course an NOS circuit Board. Not sure how I'm going to do either one. Yikes! Winter is coming.
Best Wishes
Julian

 

[DAKSY]

Here's a wiring diagram:

 

[Mt Bob]

No "feeder motor switch" on an accentra,at least I have never seen one,I could research old manuals if necessary.I have seen this problem happen when-1small crack in the vacuum hose that goes to the vac switch,2 a gasket leaking,3-combustion fan not maintaining proper speed,or has a fin or 2 broken off.However,it is entirely possible you got a bad board.Do you have your old one,and what was wrong with it?

 

[karhu61]

Hello,
And thank you for the help. It could be the hose although it feels like new. My question about replacing that is getting to the stove side attachment. It is quite far back in the stove. I replaced the door gasket last fall. I replaced the circuit board because of basically the same issue. last year at this time I did the preseason clean and had the chimney cleaned. When I started the stove it lit right up and then went into somewhat the same behavior I have described. Feeds well excellent flame but when the side of stove thermometer reads between 150 and 200 degrees the feed light would come on but it would not feed. this would continue intermittently until the stove went out. First I replaced the door gasket then the feed motor. Then the esp probe. None worked. I had a Harman tech come look at it. It does not have a ddm so he could only say that the motor resp and the gasket were done correctly and it might be the circuit board. I replaced the circuit board. It lights quickly good flame and when it reaches the 150 200 degree mark it throws the 2 blink code... The manual says the two blink code refers to the jumper at j2 not being connected. Of course the new circuit board has no jumper at j2. I have also read that the two blink code has to do with the new board needing the red esp probe. Which does not fit in the old stoves
Best
Julian

 

[AbuJas]

Have you ever considered simply drilling out part of the exhaust pipe in back of the stove in place and mount the ESP probe back there for the larger red one? it is far easier to cut through the aluminum pipe than it would be the hard steal flange. Plus better access for drilling and cleaning the probe in the future. it will still respond all the same way in either location, and there is plenty of wire slack to do it.

 

[rickwai]

Did you get a OEM Harman board ending in 886?