Harman ignitor /fuse blown

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Tonyray

Minister of Fire
had stove on room manual all night as usual... left for work and dropped switch back into auto since exspected some sun later...
got home and stove was off... no lights... was hoping it was just the fuse which it was....
replaced the fuse and started the stove in room auto. watched the pellets almost overfly with no ignite so know now ignitor is toast.
have to gel start till i get another ignitor.. electric components are working fine since last night..
question is why the 6amp fuse blew..........
I am assuming as it was trying to light and wouldn't it was a too much of a amperage draw ?? ignitor flakes out and takes fuse with it??
any other thoughts on why fuse blew with the ignitor??
 
ignitor flakes out and takes fuse with it??


Tony you guessed right, igniters are resistors that teeter on the border of failure. they can fail 2 ways open or closed.. open does nothing no heat no damage. closed it is a dead short of 120vac, thats probably why the fuse blew. lets hope it did no other damage. when you get your new one i would put a 4-5amp fuse in line with the igniter just for extra insurance against board damage.
 
Tony you guessed right, igniters are resistors that teeter on the border of failure. they can fail 2 ways open or closed.. open does nothing no heat no damage. closed it is a dead short of 120vac, thats probably why the fuse blew. lets hope it did no other damage. when you get your new one i would put a 4-5amp fuse in line with the igniter just for extra insurance against board damage.
Thanks. Will put lesd than the stock 6 amp.

.
 
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Thanks. Will put lesd than the stock 6 amp.

.
I ordered an ignitor from place i have gotten parts before. Deffinitly says harman p61a replacement ( new part number replaces old number etc) but sez 16 fin. Iknow for a fact the older ignitors were replaced with 15 fin models so i think it was a typo. Hearth energy or something with the word energy was the web site
 
When you replace the igniter, be sure to pull the connections back into the air intake tube, I have seen a couple of stoves where people just snipped the wires under the burn pot and spliced together with wire nuts which ultimately failed due to heat. I have also seen the same thing happen with the sta-kon type connectors, they don't pull them back to where it is cooler and instead are leaving them directly under the burn pot.
 
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I guess Harman added another fin to the 15 fin model?
Replacement 16-fin 306-watt igniter for Harman Pellet Stoves. Fits the following Harman models:

Harman Pellet Stoves:


  • Absolute 63
  • Absolute 43
  • Absolute43 C
  • Allure 50
  • P35i Pellet Insert
  • P43
  • P61A
  • P68
  • PF100 ( Pre serial #008350087)
  • PB105 ( Pre serial #008341121)
  • Accentra
  • Accentra Insert
  • Accentra 52i
  • Accentra 52i-TC
  • Advance
  • XXV
  • XXV-TC

OEM Harman part # 3-20-677200
Replaces old Harman part numbers 1-10-06620 and 3-20-06783.

For instructions on how to install the igniter please click here.
 
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I recently ordered online a new igniter for one of my p35i’s, it was installed properly but still wouldn’t light the stove (charred and warmed some pellets) despite a proper installation into a clean stove. I bit the bullet and bought the oem igniter from my dealer, swapped them, and minutes later had a flame. I don’t know if it was defective or insufficient. I do know I received a full refund...
 
I recently ordered online a new igniter for one of my p35i’s, it was installed properly but still wouldn’t light the stove (charred and warmed some pellets) despite a proper installation into a clean stove. I bit the bullet and bought the oem igniter from my dealer, swapped them, and minutes later had a flame. I don’t know if it was defective or insufficient. I do know I received a full refund...
Yes I know that does happen. Can I ask what you paid for the first and second ignitor?
 
I see harman igniters blow fuses a lot when they get old and the high temp insulation falls off the pigtails. Also can happen if the board took a surge and is now running the igniter constantly. The above reason also happens.
 
Yes I know that does happen. Can I ask what you paid for the first and second ignitor?
$30 for the first and $135 for the oem. My guy bent me over a bit for the oem but he had it and I needed it.
 
$30 for the first and $135 for the oem. My guy bent me over a bit for the oem but he had it and I needed it.
My stove dealer would do the same so bought online. 89.00 i think. Bought there before. Think it was mountainview energy something like that.OEM
 
My stove dealer would do the same so bought online. 89.00 i think. Bought there before. Think it was mountainview energy something like that.OEM
 

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$30 for the first and $135 for the oem. My guy bent me over a bit for the oem but he had it and I needed it.
I see now they have a 13 fin Harman ignitor. Not to be confused with the original 13 fin from way back. Supposed to be more energy efficient and use less electricity. Now my head is spinning LOL
 
I see now they have a 13 fin Harman ignitor. Not to be confused with the original 13 fin from way back. Supposed to be more energy efficient and use less electricity. Now my head is spinning LOL
By the way I paid $87 from Mountain View energy and my dealer wanted $122 so I see what you mean.
 
We are a Harman dealer and our price is $89.00 I believe. Buy OEM, They last a long time and they work. $125.00+ for a igniter is highway robbery!!
 
We are a Harman dealer and our price is $89.00 I believe. Buy OEM, They last a long time and they work. $125.00+ for a igniter is highway robbery!!
So what is deal with the newer more efficient 13 fin harman ignitors not to be confused with the old original 13 fin ignitor.. they supposedly use less electric and more light faster. Also around $120
or so.
 
So what is deal with the newer more efficient 13 fin harman ignitors not to be confused with the old original 13 fin ignitor.. they supposedly use less electric and more light faster. Also around $120
or so.
Do you have a link to this oem igniter, only one I'm finding is aftermarket
 
It’s an aftermarket gimmick. They are just calling it more efficient to sell you on the fact that it’s different. We sell the oem for 98 and they can last 10-15 years if burn pot is maintained. Cheap parts are cheap.
 
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It’s an aftermarket gimmick. They are just calling it more efficient to sell you on the fact that it’s different. We sell the oem for 98 and they can last 10-15 years if burn pot is maintained. Cheap parts are cheap.
ok.. i checked 4 places.. your right.. all aftermarket....
 
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Do you have a link to this oem igniter, only one I'm finding is aftermarket
oops. yes it is aftermarket..
could have sworn i saw OEM.. let me check a couple other places.
yes.. 4 places all say aftermarket....NOT OEM...my Bad...
 
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Man! That sounds like a deal for $120. It is advertised to last 25- 50 years:)
 
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