Harman Oakwood stove problems

[T@LFarms]

I purchased an oakwood stove 2 years ago and the first year was great. This year the firebricks cracked and feel apart to a tune of $340.00. When I replaced them I noticed that the firechamber was starting to decinigrate and this part is $320.00. Is this normal, the dealer wouldn't help out at all and said the stove was burned too hot. I don't know how you can burn a woodstove and not burn it hot.

TC

 

[Troutchaser]

There are several members here with Oakwood stoves. I'm sure they'll be chiming in soon.
Do you monitor stove temps?

Oh, how rude of me. Welcome to the forum!

 

[T@LFarms]

I monitor chimney temperatures with a gauge and it stays in the green.

 

[branchburner]

Yes, TC, this stove burns hotter than many, and excessive temps can shorten the lifespan of the afterburner. Like VC and perhaps others, Harman has designed a stove that burns very hot and then if there are problems, they sometimes tell the customer "sorry, you burned the stove very hot - no warranty."

Is the afterburner actually falling apart, or just fragile and crusty? If it is still intact, the less you handle it the better. You should get more than two years out of it, even if you burned hot. Given you have observed and maintained safe flue temps, I would keep pestering the dealer to honor the warranty if it has failed completely. Go through the manual and see if there were specific instructions you have ignored that might give them cause to not replace the part.

This recent thread may be of interest: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/62727/

 

[VCBurner]

I monitor chimney temperatures with a gauge and it stays in the green.

Welcome T!

I am also a new burner in my 3rd season. I think a lot of people here will probably say that monitoring stove temps with a thermometer is the best way to make sure you don't overfire the stove. Most manufacturers will state the ideal temps and spot for a stove thermometer. My manual says that the best place to check stove temps is on the side loading door. However, this may not be the hottest part of the stove. The open baffle is probably the hottest part of my stove. So I put a magnetic thermometer 12" above the stove top on the pipe connector to try to simulate the hotest part of the stove. The temps can get really extremelly hot within seconds if unwatched. Like from 500 to 900+ within a minute or two if the ash door is open. I would never know unless I had a thermometer in that very spot. I usually damper down as soon as I see sign of an overfire. The symptoms you mentioned would sound like an overfire to most people, I think.

Edit:
Those are some beautiful looking stoves the Oakwoods. Do either of you have the optional grill that goes on top of the stove?

 

[branchburner]

Those are some beautiful looking stoves the Oakwoods. Do either of you have the optional grill that goes on top of the stove?

A great looking (and heating) stove, and yes, the grill is a treat.

 

[VCBurner]

Those are some beautiful looking stoves the Oakwoods. Do either of you have the optional grill that goes on top of the stove?

A great looking (and heating) stove, and yes, the grill is a treat.

I can smell the burgers and steaks from here! I just saw that grill a few days ago while researching Harman stoves. Sweet!

 

[T@LFarms]

Yes, TC, this stove burns hotter than many, and excessive temps can shorten the lifespan of the afterburner. Like VC and perhaps others, Harman has designed a stove that burns very hot and then if there are problems, they sometimes tell the customer "sorry, you burned the stove very hot - no warranty."

Is the afterburner actually falling apart, or just fragile and crusty? If it is still intact, the less you handle it the better. You should get more than two years out of it, even if you burned hot. Given you have observed and maintained safe flue temps, I would keep pestering the dealer to honor the warranty if it has failed completely. Go through the manual and see if there were specific instructions you have ignored that might give them cause to not replace the part.

This recent thread may be of interest: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/62727/

branchburner the afterburner is partly gone on one corner and a thin piece is loose on the front (hard to describe). I have been burning wood for over 35 years with no issues. I used to have timberline stoves and had them for many years with no issues. I bought this for what I think was a lot of money and seem to have too many problems. I can't believe how many people have thermometors at different locations and the very high temperatures that are seen. It makes me feel like getting rid of this stove and buying an old one.

 

[branchburner]

Funny thing happened last night after reading about your cracked brick. I've had one piece (the center "shoe") crack last year (after two years use), and then I woke up this morning and the center piece above the shoe had cracked during the night! Seems they should be sturdier - I know they take some heating and beating, but nothing I'd call abuse.

Did the afterburner get that damage after your firebricks broke, maybe getting hit with wood or a poker? I'm curious about how many of the brick refractory pieces broke, and how they cracked - do you think it was from a few super-hot fires, banging with logs, or what?

I think for sure running newer stoves means learning new tricks - some of the old rules apply, some don't. Because of the mandatory secondary air inlets, these new stoves can be easier to overfire. And the parts are more fragile, and do get pricy in a hurry.

Run at peak performance, you can probably get longer, cleaner burns and use less wood than with any older stove. It's just a matter of getting all the variables lined up to reach that peak, and knowing when to treat the stove with kid gloves. Too bad many stove makers and sellers are not as helpful as they could be in that department.

 

[Todd]

Funny thing happened last night after reading about your cracked brick. I've had one piece (the center "shoe") crack last year (after two years use), and then I woke up this morning and the center piece above the shoe had cracked during the night! Seems they should be sturdier - I know they take some heating and beating, but nothing I'd call abuse.

Did the afterburner get that damage after your firebricks broke, maybe getting hit with wood or a poker? I'm curious about how many of the brick refractory pieces broke, and how they cracked - do you think it was from a few super-hot fires, banging with logs, or what?

I think for sure running newer stoves means learning new tricks - some of the old rules apply, some don't. Because of the mandatory secondary air inlets, these new stoves can be easier to overfire. And the parts are more fragile, and do get pricy in a hurry.

Run at peak performance, you can probably get longer, cleaner burns and use less wood than with any older stove. It's just a matter of getting all the variables lined up to reach that peak, and knowing when to treat the stove with kid gloves. Too bad many stove makers and sellers are not as helpful as they could be in that department.

Maybe it's time to get that $100 backup Fireview in operation?

 

[Todd]

TC,
Don't let the dealer push you around, demand a warranty claim.

 

[branchburner]

Maybe it's time to get that $100 backup Fireview in operation?

The entire cat/baffle assembly was pulled out, so it's just a stone and iron box. But no cracks, and as a nice-looking direct-connect smoke dragon it will easily heat the in-law apt next time the power goes out for a day or more.

The Harman is up and running tonight. Let it cool down this morning, pulled out the two halves of the refractory piece and clamped them together with furnace cement. After setting an hour, threw it in the oven for another hour, then back in the Harman. So far so good - still one piece six hours into the burn.

 

[Todd]

Maybe it's time to get that $100 backup Fireview in operation?

The entire cat/baffle assembly was pulled out, so it's just a stone and iron box. But no cracks, and as a nice-looking direct-connect smoke dragon it will easily heat the in-law apt next time the power goes out for a day or more.

The Harman is up and running tonight. Let it cool down this morning, pulled out the two halves of the refractory piece and clamped them together with furnace cement. After setting an hour, threw it in the oven for another hour, then back in the Harman. So far so good - still one piece six hours into the burn.

How much did Woodstock quote you to get the guts back in that Fireview?

 

[branchburner]

TC,
Don't let the dealer push you around, demand a warranty claim.

Right. Molded refractory panels are covered for two years. You should not have paid for those. What did the dealer say regarding that?

That's why I asked if your AB was damaged after the firebrick (excuse me, the molded refractory panels) cracked - if you ran the stove in any state of disrepair, or not fully in accordance with instructions, then no warranty applies.

 

[branchburner]

Maybe it's time to get that $100 backup Fireview in operation?

The entire cat/baffle assembly was pulled out, so it's just a stone and iron box.

How much did Woodstock quote you to get the guts back in that Fireview?

Tom said bring it up, they'd do it in a day. Didn't talk how much, though. Trouble is, it would be the guts of a Classic, not a Fireview, since my 20-year old model is not the same as the new one - which means no airwash. Which means no great fire view in the Fireview. So it's on the back burner for now.

 

[T@LFarms]

TC,
Don't let the dealer push you around, demand a warranty claim.

Right. Molded refractory panels are covered for two years. You should not have paid for those. What did the dealer say regarding that?

That's why I asked if your AB was damaged after the firebrick (excuse me, the molded refractory panels) cracked - if you ran the stove in any state of disrepair, or not fully in accordance with instructions, then no warranty applies.

branchburner the upper center brick broke off and wnen I took the rest of them out to examine them the right rear brick had a large crack and the lower brick fell into 4 pieces when I picked it up. This did not damage the AB. After reading several of the other postings maybe having the AB three guarters full of fine ash could have damaged it. When this happened I called my dealer for advice but had to leave a message and they never returned my call so I checked the stove and found the chamber mostly plugged. I wish that I knew about this site and that would have helped me with that problem.

 

[T@LFarms]

TC,
Don't let the dealer push you around, demand a warranty claim.

Right. Molded refractory panels are covered for two years. You should not have paid for those. What did the dealer say regarding that?

That's why I asked if your AB was damaged after the firebrick (excuse me, the molded refractory panels) cracked - if you ran the stove in any state of disrepair, or not fully in accordance with instructions, then no warranty applies.

The dealer told me that the bricks were guaranteed for one year.

 

[Diabel]

I bought the encore NC (mistake #1) my second choice was the Harmon ( mistake #2 avoided)!! Sold the encore after 4 years of use. Back to "cat" stove & happy!

 

[jdonna]

Hey Buddy,

Sorry to hear about your problems with your oakwood.

It could either way, physical damage from a log or extreme Firedome temperatures. Harman needs to come out and state the operating temperature of this stove and what overfiring is because their owners manual needs serious revisions especially in regards to side and back temperatures when burning smoke.

I would like to hear some more info, chimney height, chimney size, outside air kit installed or not, amount of wood usually loaded, duration of burn times, type and moisture of the wood and how often you have used the stove. Posting that will help a lot of other people out down the road.

Search the forums, I have posted a lot of info and so has Branch in regards to these stoves and problems. Did you by chance measure the temperature by the bypass handle, that is where I have found it to be the most accurate and most eye opening. I have run into every dead end as well with my Harman Dealer and talking the factory direct.

It depends on the warranty given on the stove, mine was provided with the Harman Gold 6 year even though it was bought two years ago, to me though it has been a worthless piece of paper.

PM me please if you need some contact info.

I'd trade any day of the week for a fireview.

 

[Todd]

I'd trade any day of the week for a fireview.

Hmmm, always loved that grill option. ;-P

 

[jdonna]

Well Minnesota to Wisconsin is not that far of a drive lol.

 

[T@LFarms]

Hey Buddy,

Sorry to hear about your problems with your oakwood.

It could either way, physical damage from a log or extreme Firedome temperatures. Harman needs to come out and state the operating temperature of this stove and what overfiring is because their owners manual needs serious revisions especially in regards to side and back temperatures when burning smoke.

I would like to hear some more info, chimney height, chimney size, outside air kit installed or not, amount of wood usually loaded, duration of burn times, type and moisture of the wood and how often you have used the stove. Posting that will help a lot of other people out down the road.

Search the forums, I have posted a lot of info and so has Branch in regards to these stoves and problems. Did you by chance measure the temperature by the bypass handle, that is where I have found it to be the most accurate and most eye opening. I have run into every dead end as well with my Harman Dealer and talking the factory direct.

It depends on the warranty given on the stove, mine was provided with the Harman Gold 6 year even though it was bought two years ago, to me though it has been a worthless piece of paper.

PM me please if you need some contact info.

I'd trade any day of the week for a fireview.

Burning chunk- my chimney is six inch triple wall that goes straight out of the stove and through the roof without any bends and it is about 18 feet long.No outside air kit and I burn my stove 24/7 loading it about three quarters full about every 6 to 8 hours. My wood is seasoned about one and a half to two years and is stored inside a shed after that time(mostly ash and maple).I also have the harman gold 6 year warantee whatever good it is. I don't have a stove thermometer only a chimney one. I thought when I purchased this it would give many years service without spending a fortune on maintenance. I have read many articles on this forum and it seems that many people are having problems. You are right about the owners manual. I tried to follow it but it is not very specific.

TC

 

[branchburner]

TC,
Don't let the dealer push you around, demand a warranty claim.

Right. Molded refractory panels are covered for two years. You should not have paid for those. What did the dealer say regarding that?

That's why I asked if your AB was damaged after the firebrick (excuse me, the molded refractory panels) cracked - if you ran the stove in any state of disrepair, or not fully in accordance with instructions, then no warranty applies.

The dealer told me that the bricks were guaranteed for one year.

The way I read it, if they were normal firebrick they wouldn't be covered at all, but they are specially molded refractory material - two years, not one: (broken link removed to http://hearthnhome.com/downloads/communications/Warranty_Policy.pdf)

 

[branchburner]

After reading several of the other postings maybe having the AB three guarters full of fine ash could have damaged it. When this happened I called my dealer for advice but had to leave a message and they never returned my call so I checked the stove and found the chamber mostly plugged. I wish that I knew about this site and that would have helped me with that problem.

Did you remove the back of the stove and clean that out?

 

[T@LFarms]

After reading several of the other postings maybe having the AB three guarters full of fine ash could have damaged it. When this happened I called my dealer for advice but had to leave a message and they never returned my call so I checked the stove and found the chamber mostly plugged. I wish that I knew about this site and that would have helped me with that problem.

Did you remove the back of the stove and clean that out?

Yes I did and couldn't believe all the ashes that were in there. I don't think the dealers know all the quirks of these stoves yet.

TC