ThanksDon - I had the exact same thing happen to me with one of the three screws...no way to grab it from the inside since its flush and every other trick I know of failed. I ended up carefully hacking it off with a saw which also trashed the rubber bushing. My dealer had some laying around so they gave me one. I replaced at the screws with ones that had very small heads so as not to get in the way of the blades, but yet I could grab them with a screwdriver.
Looks great. I had misread your original post...just realized you said "set" screw. Sorry.Here are 2 more pics
How does it look?
That's ok, glad you got yours fixed too! How many amps is your combustion blower? It should say on the tag.Looks great. I had misread your original post...just realized you said "set" screw. Sorry.
Says 1.75. My old one had a bad bearing so swapped out under warranty.That's ok, glad you got yours fixed too! How many amps is your combustion blower? It should say on the tag.
Thanks for letting me know, Now my 12 y/o garage/workshop Harman P61a-2 works as good as yours! Still has the original auger motor.Says 1.75. My old one had a bad bearing so swapped out under warranty.
Here are 2 more pics
How does it look?
Excellent! I don't even have that. My original auger motor sounded like a$$. We opened it up and saw about 2 squirts of grease. Dealer gave me a new one, which actually had grease in it. Been a year and it still runs quietThanks for letting me know, Now my 12 y/o garage Harman P61a-2 works as good as yours! Still has the original auger motor.
Excellent! I don't even have that. My original auger motor sounded like a$$. We opened it up and saw about 2 squirts of grease. Dealer gave me a new one, which actually had grease in it. Been a year and it still runs quiet
Better get some more ventilation in the shop when your painting
They are just jealous.
When we come up against stuck set screws we just drill em out and start again.
Different design which i found to be a thorn in the side(only when unable to remove the fan blade)!In this case getting the drill in the stove to drill is impossible. The blades must come off first to get the exhaust blower off the stove .
True but I found on my other Harman if the blades are removed once a year and cleaned, then they come off easily.Different design which i found to be a thorn in the side(only when unable to remove the fan blade)!
How do you get the Dremel tool behind the combustion blower to cut the shaft?I would use a dremmel tool with a grinder wheel on it. Less effort and probably faster than a saws all.
Believe it or not, I tried drilling and grinding out the set screw and it does not always work. The best way in going that route is to fire up my die grinder and cut the blade collar down next to the shaft without hitting the motor shaft. That works great! The blades are junk but you can save the motor that way. Again on a Harman that may not be possible to get the tool into the stove todo it.Oops, not enough detail. I wouldn't cut the shaft with the dremmel tool, I would grind out the steel collar and set screw then pull the fan blade off.
Something like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...u=202196545&ci_src=328768002&ci_sku=202196545What is this tool? Angle grinder?
We have become a throw away society. I'm probably on both ends of that spectrum. I have two Mil drills and a sawsall then have some air die grinders etc that I have only used twice in five years that I paid low buck for.And 95% of them screaming for lower prices, even if the quality suffers.
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.