Harman P43 Squeal

[kilogulf59]

My Harmon P43 pellet stove has developed a high pitched, intermittent, squeal, such as described in this thread: Annoying high pitch squeeling. Also, I did all the fixes suggested in said thread, to include removing the carbon in the burn pot (as best I could), vacuuming out the hopper (something I had never done before) and the fines box (which was full and it was just cleaned a few weeks ago). I also added graphite powder to about a coffee can full of pellets (they were well coated) and put that in the hopper first. No squeal at first then it started again a while later. It was so bad last night I just shut it down, Rip Van Winkle couldn’t have slept through that noise. I’m going to go over the whole thing again this morning, all the while praying, because we’re supposed to get to -15° tonight and I sure could use it.

Here’s some info that will, perhaps, help with the diagnosis (in no particular order):

- The stove was installed in 2012 and is running from approximately November to/through March, weather depending (we’re in central Wisconsin).
- Country Boy White Lightning Pellets are what I use.
- I average 4-tons per season +/-½ ton weather depending.
- It just had a good cleaning a few weeks ago, which I do after about every ton burned.
- The fines box seems to get filled up a lot. I was told to clean this every season, it’s more like every ton.
- FWIW, I replaced the door gasket earlier this season (man, did that make a huge difference).
- The stove has been on manual ignite because, for some reason, I seem to go through igniters (expensive and cheap ones). At this time of the year, the stove never really shuts anyway.
- As I stated above, I just removed the carbon in the burn pot, vacuumed out the hopper, and the fines box. I also added graphite powder to about a coffee can full of pellets and put that in the hopper first. I am about to do this again with the hope that the God of Pellet Stoves shines upon me.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I have a gettingscrewedaphobic fear of calling in a serviceman. It’s expensive just to get one as they’re all far away and, to be quite honest, I don’t trust them.

 

[Tonyray]

My Harmon P43 pellet stove has developed a high pitched, intermittent, squeal, such as described in this thread: Annoying high pitch squeeling. Also, I did all the fixes suggested in said thread, to include removing the carbon in the burn pot (as best I could), vacuuming out the hopper (something I had never done before) and the fines box (which was full and it was just cleaned a few weeks ago). I also added graphite powder to about a coffee can full of pellets (they were well coated) and put that in the hopper first. No squeal at first then it started again a while later. It was so bad last night I just shut it down, Rip Van Winkle couldn’t have slept through that noise. I’m going to go over the whole thing again this morning, all the while praying, because we’re supposed to get to -15° tonight and I sure could use it.

Here’s some info that will, perhaps, help with the diagnosis (in no particular order):

- The stove was installed in 2012 and is running from approximately November to/through March, weather depending (we’re in central Wisconsin).
- Country Boy White Lightning Pellets are what I use.
- I average 4-tons per season +/-½ ton weather depending.
- It just had a good cleaning a few weeks ago, which I do after about every ton burned.
- The fines box seems to get filled up a lot. I was told to clean this every season, it’s more like every ton.
- FWIW, I replaced the door gasket earlier this season (man, did that make a huge difference).
- The stove has been on manual ignite because, for some reason, I seem to go through igniters (expensive and cheap ones). At this time of the year, the stove never really shuts anyway.
- As I stated above, I just removed the carbon in the burn pot, vacuumed out the hopper, and the fines box. I also added graphite powder to about a coffee can full of pellets and put that in the hopper first. I am about to do this again with the hope that the God of Pellet Stoves shines upon me.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I have a gettingscrewedaphobic fear of calling in a serviceman. It’s expensive just to get one as they’re all far away and, to be quite honest, I don’t trust them.

Dont know uf it is steady noise or not but i had similar few days x ago. Took back cover and sound was the exhaust motor. Can see the shaft spinning in the back of it. 2 drops of penetrating oil on the shaft and noise gone.

 

[kilogulf59]

It's intermittent and I will try that. Thanks you.

 

[Mt Bob]

Yes,logic would dictate locating the noise first. However, if in a bind and want to try something. high use harmans sometimes wear out the slide plate, and the feeder body. The plate will get groves worn into it, pretty evident after removing it. File down and sand any rough edges, spray up good with dry graphite or dry moly spray.

 

[gfreek]

Is the "squeal" every time the auger rotates ? If so it can be the dreaded auger squeal or the auger motor.. If it is the auger, clean the end of the auger tube and end of auger with small wire brush, . periodical super hot burns help. I use creosote spray like this and seems to help..
Tonyray mentioned combustion exhaust motor squeal possible also..

Rutland Professional Strength Creosote Remover Mfr# 97L - Ace Hardware

This liquid form of our popular creosote remover is great for all stove and flue types but best for pellet stoves where granules would fall through the burner pan. Spraying on an existing fire or pre-treating fuel before adding is all it takes to make your chimney safer and your stove or...

www.acehardware.com

 

[Mt Bob]

There also were some augers that were not tack welded along the length of the auger, and the noises did not come out until stoves got some age on them.

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[kilogulf59]

OK, headed down to check on these. I'll look into that creosote remover. There's now Ace's anyway near me. Thanks and I'll get back to you all on this.

 

[jackman]

I have that problem on occasion. I pull the auger and do a thorough cleaning of the feed tube with a wire wheel on a drill to clean it out.

 

[Mt Bob]

I have that problem on occasion. I pull the auger and do a thorough cleaning of the feed tube with a wire wheel on a drill to clean it out.

Yep, most quality repair people will. It really does not take long.

 

[kilogulf59]

I think I got it. I did the process of elimination thing and lifted the hopper lid and that shut down the auger. Right off the bat, it was not feed related. So, with the hopper lid still up, I scraped out the burning pellets into the ash pan. With the burn about out and the door just cracked open, I laid down and watched to see what shut off next. As soon as the distribution blower stopped, the noise did. The combustion blower was still running. The high pitch made it difficult for me to hear exactly where it was coming from and it's tight back there. I squirted some lube on the bearing and, voila, it's quiet...so far. I really hope that's it. Then I can order a new blower motor and install it when the time comes. I will comment on this again and let you know how goes the battle. Maybe this will help someone else. As usual, I always learn a lot when I come here. All you folks are very knowledgeable and extremely helpful. I cannot thank you enough.

 

[Tonyray]

I think I got it. I did the process of elimination thing and lifted the hopper lid and that shut down the auger. Right off the bat, it was not feed related. So, with the hopper lid still up, I scraped out the burning pellets into the ash pan. With the burn about out and the door just cracked open, I laid down and watched to see what shut off next. As soon as the distribution blower stopped, the noise did. The combustion blower was still running. The high pitch made it difficult for me to hear exactly where it was coming from and it's tight back there. I squirted some lube on the bearing and, voila, it's quiet...so far. I really hope that's it. Then I can order a new blower motor and install it when the time comes. I will comment on this again and let you know how goes the battle. Maybe this will help someone else. As usual, I always learn a lot when I come here. All you folks are very knowledgeable and extremely helpful. I cannot thank you enough.

View attachment 291350 View attachment 291351 View attachment 291352

Great. Shaft lube job same as me with exhaust motor.

 

[kilogulf59]

You got it man...and so far, so good...

 

[Tonyray]

You got it man...and so far, so good...
View attachment 291392

If i remember correctly, i lubed my exhaust motor shaft once before. Like 2yrs ago and it lasted till recently per my reply to you.. metal shaft is a metal shaft so hopefully yours lasts as long. Btw: i have a spare exhaust , ignitor and dist blower on hand just in case.. good to have spares.

 

[kilogulf59]

I have one igniter left. For some reason I go through them fast. I put one in at the beginning of the season and it went out. Even that fuse on the PC board popped. I have a few of those. I've been running it manually ever since.

 

[Mt Bob]

Harmans,by the numbers are easy on igniters. Yes a few years back,Harman sold a large batch of defective ones, but that was quite some time ago. 5years or more is quite common. Harman igniters go bad fast when the control board is bad, and it keeps the igniter on whenever the stove is on.

 

[Tonyray]

I have one igniter left. For some reason I go through them fast. I put one in at the beginning of the season and it went out. Even that fuse on the PC board popped. I have a few of those. I've been running it manually ever since.

do you buy the 39.00 ones or the 70-80.00 ones/? the Asian bargain ones don't last long usually..

 

[kilogulf59]

The stove seems to be running fine except for igniters. Could the board be bad in just that one area? Sorry, electronics are not my forte'. How much is a new board and how hard is it to replace?
I seem to recall reading somewhere that a packed fines box will cause that fuse to blow and burnout the igniter. As I mentioned, I never even thought of vacuuming out the hopper until now (something I'll now be doing frequently) and I'm guessing that's why my fines box was always full. Could that have anything to do with the igniters? Again, electronics are not my forte'.
BTW, I bought expensive and cheap igniters, it never seemed to matter. FWIW, I visually compared an El Cheapo with an expensive one and I couldn't tell the difference.

 

[Mt Bob]

yes, the board can go bad with the only problem being the igniter stays on. They are easy to replace.The fine box would have nothing to do with the igniter.
You can check it several ways, but the easiest is to install new igniter, hook stove to a kill a watt , start stove, make sure after stove lights, watt usage drops down.

 

[kilogulf59]

By kill a watt you mean something like this: (broken link removed to https://www.walmart.com/ip/Electricity-Usage-Monitor-Power-Meter-Plug-Outlet-LCD-Display-Socket-Energy-Wattage-KWH-Consumption-Cost-Analyzer-Outlet-AC120V/239245569?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101038437&&adid=22222222227459466125&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=539071238615&wl4=pla-1401799922806&wl5=9019008&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=265088046&wl11=online&wl12=239245569&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiAl-6PBhBCEiwAc2GOVFM7feTnumAdHjy1CTud6Yn3N2aRBrxAPuaiFiOXLSrsZYUoD7VT4hoCfssQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)?

OK, I found a video on replacing the board and yes, it is easy. Also, I see board prices vary greatly. Is there a suggested place to buy these as, in many cases, price is no guarantee of quality.

 

[SciGuy]

By kill a watt you mean something like this: (broken link removed to https://www.walmart.com/ip/Electricity-Usage-Monitor-Power-Meter-Plug-Outlet-LCD-Display-Socket-Energy-Wattage-KWH-Consumption-Cost-Analyzer-Outlet-AC120V/239245569?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101038437&&adid=22222222227459466125&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=539071238615&wl4=pla-1401799922806&wl5=9019008&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=265088046&wl11=online&wl12=239245569&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiAl-6PBhBCEiwAc2GOVFM7feTnumAdHjy1CTud6Yn3N2aRBrxAPuaiFiOXLSrsZYUoD7VT4hoCfssQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)?

OK, I found a video on replacing the board and yes, it is easy. Also, I see board prices vary greatly. Is there a suggested place to buy these as, in many cases, price is no guarantee of quality.

IIRC Pellethead has them for ~$210. The Platinum boards built at all recently should be all the same.

 

[Mt Bob]

By kill a watt you mean something like this: (broken link removed to https://www.walmart.com/ip/Electricity-Usage-Monitor-Power-Meter-Plug-Outlet-LCD-Display-Socket-Energy-Wattage-KWH-Consumption-Cost-Analyzer-Outlet-AC120V/239245569?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101038437&&adid=22222222227459466125&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=539071238615&wl4=pla-1401799922806&wl5=9019008&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=265088046&wl11=online&wl12=239245569&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiAl-6PBhBCEiwAc2GOVFM7feTnumAdHjy1CTud6Yn3N2aRBrxAPuaiFiOXLSrsZYUoD7VT4hoCfssQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)?

OK, I found a video on replacing the board and yes, it is easy. Also, I see board prices vary greatly. Is there a suggested place to buy these as, in many cases, price is no guarantee of quality.

Yes, on the meter. Ya, you missed it, ESES had a few "reconditioned" Harman boards, for 170, but they sold them fast.

 

[Mt Bob]

Wow 3 weeks ago you could get a board for 180, prices have really jumped!

 

[kilogulf59]

FWIW, so far, no squeal. I am keeping my fingers crossed. Also, I'm looking into a new board, igniter, and a distribution blower. Thanks, again, to everyone for your kind assistance.

 

[kilogulf59]

FWIW, so far, no squeal. I am keeping my fingers crossed. Also, I'm looking into a new board, igniter, and a distribution blower. Thanks, again, to everyone for your kind assistance.

OK, I didn't want to jinx myself but, since I got so much help here, I thought the least I could do was follow up. I got a new board and igniter from Pellethead. I watched his tutorial videos (again) just to make sure I didn't screw it up. I didn't and it's been purring like a kitten ever since (knocking furiously on wood). I'm beginning to think that board was bad or was going bad for a lot longer that I thought. The fuse looks different from my old one (eyes aren't too good anymore). I'll have to see JIC I need spares. Also, I have it plugged into a Tripp Lite surge protector (finally). So, that's where I'm at...I cannot thank all of you enough. I've learned so much here. Thanks again.