Harman XXV Distribution Blower Issue

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Abington586

New Member
Feb 9, 2022
11
Pennsylvania
Hey everyone! I have a a Harman XXV pellet stove (with no high low rocker switch). The other day I noticed the distribution blower not working. It was just replaced 2 years ago. When I spun it by hand it seemed very sticky, and I could see the motor trying to spin it but just not able. I got a replacement and installed. Motor worked like it should for about an hour. Then I noticed the distribution blower slowly start to die out. Eventually it stopped completed and would not turn on in test mode either. After waiting a while, I turned the stove back on in test. The blower came on but at a much lower speed than normal for the max setting. I let the stove ignite and run on that lower speed for a while, but eventually the blower died again. Stove has been cleaned, ESP probe was removed and cleaned all scale off. I'm getting 120 volts from the distribution blower leads coming from the board. I'm trying to figure out if this is a board issue that is somehow killing these blowers, or am did I really just get 2 bad blowers back to back? Any help or thoughts would be appreciated.
 

jackman

Minister of Fire
Jan 15, 2013
681
Oregon
I would test the blower, both the old and the new, plugged straight into an outlet with a test lead to see if the blower spins normally. If it does then I'd check the voltage from the board during test to see if it's putting out full voltage.
 

Abington586

New Member
Feb 9, 2022
11
Pennsylvania
I would test the blower, both the old and the new, plugged straight into an outlet with a test lead to see if the blower spins normally. If it does then I'd check the voltage from the board during test to see if it's putting out full voltage.
I’m getting 120v from the distribution leads that are coming from the board on test mode. It’s super confusing considering the motor worked fine for a short period. I just can’t figure out what would be killing the motor.
 

Mt Bob

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2013
4,301
park county montana
Could be an issue with the power coming to your house, or to that outlet. You can test the motor as described before.
 
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Mt Bob

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2013
4,301
park county montana
Frequency. Bad/weak neutral, which may only show up under load. Not true 60 cycles. Known as "dirty power". Is possible you got a new "bad motor,also. I would do like he said, make a jumper and plug motor directly into house.
 

Abington586

New Member
Feb 9, 2022
11
Pennsylvania
Frequency. Bad/weak neutral, which may only show up under load. Not true 60 cycles. Known as "dirty power". Is possible you got a new "bad motor,also. I would do like he said, make a jumper and plug motor directly into house.
Thanks for the clarification. I’ll try plugging into the wall after work.
Just makes me feel like something is off with the board somehow considering the last motor only lasted 2-3 years before the drum kind of seized up.
 

Mt Bob

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2013
4,301
park county montana
Yes, if the board is putting out "dirty" current, it can do this. Unfortunately, new motor may be now bad. Test both in wall socket. When people run these stoves on some generators, same thing happens, usually the motors are affected first.
 
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Abington586

New Member
Feb 9, 2022
11
Pennsylvania
Yes, if the board is putting out "dirty" current, it can do this. Unfortunately, new motor may be now bad. Test both in wall socket. When people run these stoves on some generators, same thing happens, usually the motors are affected first.
Yea I’m pretty sure new one is toast as well. Drum feels “sticky” when I spin it. Not free like when I got it
 

Mt Bob

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2013
4,301
park county montana
That is strange, as there are no brushes in them,they are A/C. Almost like the motors were grounding through the bearings, instead of the wires. You will want to check all the wiring, make sure you don't have a loose or burned connection, on the neutral.
 

Abington586

New Member
Feb 9, 2022
11
Pennsylvania
That is strange, as there are no brushes in them,they are A/C. Almost like the motors were grounding through the bearings, instead of the wires. You will want to check all the wiring, make sure you don't have a loose or burned connection, on the neutral.
Both wires from the motor to board leads look fine. I’d have to pull the board panel to look at the lead wires but everything up to there looks good.
Most confusing thing ever. I’m tempted to just replace the board.
 

Mt Bob

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2013
4,301
park county montana
Well,it is questionable. And you could buy a kill-a-watt meter, or even Harbor Freight version, to check your home power, and check it while stove is running.
 

Abington586

New Member
Feb 9, 2022
11
Pennsylvania
Well,it is questionable. And you could buy a kill-a-watt meter, or even Harbor Freight version, to check your home power, and check it while stove is running.
I have a multi meter, that’s how verified I was getting 120v from the board leads to the motor. If it helps I’m getting 6.9kHz on the meter from every outlet in the house (different circuits). Trying to figure out how to change it to just Hz.
 

Mt Bob

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2013
4,301
park county montana
Well,is doubtful HZ would be off, to your house. Most house wiring problems seem to be that the wires,even the main big wires, come loose inside the breaker panel.
 

Abington586

New Member
Feb 9, 2022
11
Pennsylvania
Well,is doubtful HZ would be off, to your house. Most house wiring problems seem to be that the wires,even the main big wires, come loose inside the breaker panel.
Yea I’m thinking there’s some issue with the stove/board electronics. Just because literally everything other electronic in my house is completely fine. Just can’t figure out what would be just destroying these motors all of a sudden. Dealer doesn’t know when a tech can get out to me at the moment so I’m just trying to do anything to get some heat.
 

Mt Bob

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2013
4,301
park county montana
You have a meter, you can check with it, and physically removing, the wires on that outlet. Particular attention to the white wire, all the way to the fuse/breaker panel. If this is not making connection, it can be the cause. The all important question, were you using a surge protector? Also, many of the better ones will tell you if there is a line fault. Black should be hot, white is neutral.
 

Abington586

New Member
Feb 9, 2022
11
Pennsylvania
You have a meter, you can check with it, and physically removing, the wires on that outlet. Particular attention to the white wire, all the way to the fuse/breaker panel. If this is not making connection, it can be the cause. The all important question, were you using a surge protector? Also, many of the better ones will tell you if there is a line fault. Black should be hot, white is neutral.
Stove was plugged into surge protector. Other electronics are on the same surge protector power strip and working fine so it all kind of leads me back to the stove.
 

Mt Bob

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2013
4,301
park county montana
Stove was plugged into surge protector. Other electronics are on the same surge protector power strip and working fine so it all kind of leads me back to the stove.
Yep, seems like you have checked things out pretty well. If it is wired like most Harmans,the motors still might not have been properly grounded through the circuit board itself.or the connector. I would probably also replace ot, BUT right now, from every thing you have checked, I would be pulling the board out and inspecting the connector, to see if it is burned. If so, you may need a harness, so the sooner you find out the better.
 

Abington586

New Member
Feb 9, 2022
11
Pennsylvania
Yep, seems like you have checked things out pretty well. If it is wired like most Harmans,the motors still might not have been properly grounded through the circuit board itself.or the connector. I would probably also replace ot, BUT right now, from every thing you have checked, I would be pulling the board out and inspecting the connector, to see if it is burned. If so, you may need a harness, so the sooner you find out the better.
That will be my next step. Thanks
 

FixItGuy

New Member
Feb 21, 2022
7
MAINE
Hey everyone! I have a a Harman XXV pellet stove (with no high low rocker switch). The other day I noticed the distribution blower not working. It was just replaced 2 years ago. When I spun it by hand it seemed very sticky, and I could see the motor trying to spin it but just not able. I got a replacement and installed. Motor worked like it should for about an hour. Then I noticed the distribution blower slowly start to die out. Eventually it stopped completed and would not turn on in test mode either. After waiting a while, I turned the stove back on in test. The blower came on but at a much lower speed than normal for the max setting. I let the stove ignite and run on that lower speed for a while, but eventually the blower died again. Stove has been cleaned, ESP probe was removed and cleaned all scale off. I'm getting 120 volts from the distribution blower leads coming from the board. I'm trying to figure out if this is a board issue that is somehow killing these blowers, or am did I really just get 2 bad blowers back to back? Any help or thoughts would be appreciated.
Hi, I been dealing with this issue a lot. I put a post here about my solution to this issue. I made a weldment so I could attach a different blower on the back of the stove. It works great and is easy to get to
 

ithacalarry

Member
Nov 4, 2013
1
Upstate NY
I just replaced the distribution blower on my P35i. It's the same one used on the XXV. The blower was ordered from Direct Brand. Priced at $135 plus $35 for Fedex overnight shipping ($170 total). The blower was ordered on Monday morning and arrived at 11:00 the next day. I Can't vow for the long term reliability in that it's probably not a genuine Harman part, but right now it's working just fine!