HAs Anyone Used This Splitting Axe?
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Never tried it myself. I think there's been a fair amount of discussion of it, w/ mixed reviews - some people love it, some say it doesn't work as well as it's claimed, and some report that they have problems with the levers and other parts of the mechanical stuff breaking under heavy use. Try searching on the name to see what you come up with.
(I like my hydraulic unit personally, and before that I mostly used a monster maul clone - others have different preferences...)
Gooserider
(I like my hydraulic unit personally, and before that I mostly used a monster maul clone - others have different preferences...)
Gooserider
My old man had one when I was a kid. Waste of time. Buy a Fiskars if you want to split with an ax.
When it comes to hand splitting even with the best up to date tools it's still hard work...but imo those levered splitting mauls are a gimmick.
I've had one for over 20 years. I always thought it worked pretty good. I lost it in the leaves last year and had to buy a spilting maul then found it again this fall, so I've been able to compare them side by side. If you have straight grain it will pop them apart like no ones bussiness, but if there a knot or anything that requires repeated slamming of the whole piece once you've got the axe/maul stuck in it then the maul is better. The little springs finally broke so thants for the link, now it can get some new ones.
Bigg_Redd said:
I liked it BEFORE the mods and fixes, (and the repairs were fairly minor) I just liked it better afterwards... (IOW I made what was good, better...)
Gooserider
We had one when I was a kid. My brother used and really liked it. I never could get it to work. I always used an axe or wedges and sledge. Now I use a Fiskars axe.
I always thought they were just a gimmick. A friend had one and I tried it once. That's all it took to convince me that they are a menace to society. I used a 3.5 lb axe for many years before getting my splitter.
I have 2 of them and I love them. Mine are the older ones with the fiberglass handles (I see that now they only offer wood handles). Took a chunk out of the handle on the first one years ago so went out and got a second one. first one never broke though. These are all I ever split with since I was a kid. I've never used a splitting wedge. Now I built a hydraulic splitter so the Chopper 1s don't get used. I won't get rid of them though ... If the hydraulic goes down I'll go right back to swinging the chopper 1. The only drawback I see with them is that if you leave them out in the weather the springs are going to rust out. At least the springs are easy to replace.
I just bought a chopper axe at a antique store here in Indiana. It had a spring missing and the handle was duct tapped where the head connected. I ordered a new spring kit and handle from the company that makes them. I tried it out on some persimmon and was surprised how it made the wood pop when split.
There are some on ebay right now if anyone is looking for one.
Shipper
There are some on ebay right now if anyone is looking for one.
Shipper
I got a question for the other owners of this axe. Do you have to use a file to put an edge on it? I put a new spring and handle on mine, but took a file to the axe part and today with some red oak, it took to many swings for my ole body to get it to split.
The rounds were 24 inches but cut down the middle with my 24 inch bar, and then tried to split them. It about wore me out. :bug:
Shipper
The rounds were 24 inches but cut down the middle with my 24 inch bar, and then tried to split them. It about wore me out. :bug:
Shipper
One thing for sure, the wood in the companies video is sure not fresh cut oak. I had a oak from Craig's list that had been downed by a tree company and left. It was 25 inches or so at the base and I had to cut it length wise to be able to split it.
It took me 4-5 swings to get it to pop and many times it would just bounce. That is why the question about putting an edge on the chopper.
Shipper
It took me 4-5 swings to get it to pop and many times it would just bounce. That is why the question about putting an edge on the chopper.
Shipper
Not owning one, this is speculation, but it seems to me like in order to have the design do anything, you have to get enough penetration for the wings to contact the log face, and still have enough velocity to have them give some meaningful spreading action... Presumably sharpening the edge, or at least taking the nicks out of it, would help in that regard...
The other thing I found when splitting by hand is that you are much more likely to get good results if you "flake" off from the edges, rather than going for the center. I'd usually hit one or two inches in from the edge, and try to take of a "slab" for my first split, and then work on the resulting corners... Even with the hydraulic, I still do sort of the same way, though that is more because I find that somewhat square splits stack better in the stove than wedge shaped ones.
Gooserider
The other thing I found when splitting by hand is that you are much more likely to get good results if you "flake" off from the edges, rather than going for the center. I'd usually hit one or two inches in from the edge, and try to take of a "slab" for my first split, and then work on the resulting corners... Even with the hydraulic, I still do sort of the same way, though that is more because I find that somewhat square splits stack better in the stove than wedge shaped ones.
Gooserider
Thanks for the reply. I have taken a file to the edge before going out in the field and I might have to make sure its SHARP.Gooserider said:
As for (flaking) it, its the only way I could get a start. The tree had been down for at least 2 months and left to be bucked. It was still wet in the middle and it was just to much work for my ole body to split it by hand then the worst part was it had to be wheelbarrowed up a hill to my truck. :grrr:
Shipper
Just got one - used it for 5 minutes and I love it. I'm a relatively new fire wood guy as this is only my second winter in the bush. I split for the first winter with a 4lb axe. Hard work but worked ok - reasonable size spruce only. Little while ago bought a 8lb maul - did the work in a third the time (obvious for all of you- but a revelation for me). Today I got a chopper - yee-haw. Will NOT get caught - if it doesn't split it just bonces off and you take another swing. Busts up the knotty pieces and all. Haven't tried it in any hardwood yet.
I agree I may not last long - but only because it looks like you wouldn't get to sharpen too aggressively many times. The pins might bend but they look replaceable. It was at least twice the price of a reasonable maul and come with a wood handle (not my preference). If it lasts 3 seasons I will for sure buy another one.
I agree I may not last long - but only because it looks like you wouldn't get to sharpen too aggressively many times. The pins might bend but they look replaceable. It was at least twice the price of a reasonable maul and come with a wood handle (not my preference). If it lasts 3 seasons I will for sure buy another one.
I've never sharpened either one of mine. The cutting edge is a steep sorta blunt edge anyway. My two have been whacking away for 24 years (well the first one has) the second one has only been going for about half that. Neither one has ever seen a sharpening and neither one has ever failed to split anything I've put on the chopping block. Admittedly the handles may be problematic as they are only available in wood now ... mine are both fiberglass handled.
Ok -so split some more stuff with. Pound for pound I still think its easier than a maul. But, it can get stuck in bigger (12" dia x 12" l) softwood (probably wet too) - not any more so than a maul. Yeah I bought mine new (was bought for me
but the rebuild kit does look like a bit of a touch. I wouldn't buy another of those handles though (to slippery for my liking) - couldn't you get a fibre one to fit?
I guess I can see why sharpening isnt so important - it doesnt have to penetrate real far to engage the cams. For those who own one - how is it in the hard stuff?
but the rebuild kit does look like a bit of a touch. I wouldn't buy another of those handles though (to slippery for my liking) - couldn't you get a fibre one to fit? I guess I can see why sharpening isnt so important - it doesnt have to penetrate real far to engage the cams. For those who own one - how is it in the hard stuff?
Most of what I cut is hard wood ... Black locust, cherry, some ash, and some oak. The softest wood I ever cut was poplar and I decided it wasn't worth hauling back to the house!! I've never used a maul & wedge so my comparison is between what I have used (The Chopper 1) and what I've seen (I've seen other people beating wedges through rounds). That said, I've never had much trouble getting through anything with the Chopper1. Here's where the comparison comes in. I've seen my neighbor hit a wedge 6, 8 even 10 times to get through a piece of black locust that I know I would have hit 3 or 4 times with the chopper 1. Most of the time as long as the grain is fairly straight I'm only hitting it once per split. Come to think of it ... now that I built the hydraulic splitter I think I'll give one of my Chopper 1s to the neighbor.
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