Haughs Wood Stove

[Blazzinghot]

I got this stove for free and believe there is still hope for it. It is dated 11/88 and this model was tested in 87. This stove has a tag on the back which I will let you read. The secondary burner is a metal box with about 20 holes on the front. I just added about 45 more 1/8 holes which you can see in the picture where the stove is upside down. The inlet if plenty big for secondary air but not sure how the air will be distributed. The air wash system is right over the top of the word stove and draws in are from the top . The slider does not move more than a 1.2 inch so you can't shut of the air totally. The primary air comes in over the top of the glass window. I am still working on it so any suggestions are welcome.

What do you think about putting an insulated blanket on top of the inside metal box? Will it be to hot for the metal? Or will it make things worse?

The width is 19 inches the depth is 16 inches and the height is 23 1/2 inches counting the legs. It is a small stove still trying to find info on it. I could not find model S131E . Not sure how much space it will heat.

 

[coaly]

I can give you the factory specs, but that won’t do you much good after modifying the intake burner.

The holes across the front were to direct flame toward glass to keep it clean. Drilling more holes reduces the volume and velocity of the air exiting each hole, so it will no longer reach the glass as designed. You will need a stronger draft to get more air into the firebox and maintain the same flow through original holes. Drilling more holes doesn’t add more air, it slows the flow through each hole down. You still have the same amount of air entering until you increase draft. Retaining more heat in the firebox by insulating the baffle slows the incoming air even more.

 

[Blazzinghot]

coaly you have made some good points. I am going to hook this stove up in my shop so I get a good draft and will see what happens. If my plan does not work then I will make some other modifications to the stove. It was free stove so I will have fun with it. But I will keep everyone posted as this has a nice glass window so I can see what is happening inside the stove.

I am almost done wire brushing and sanding and using rust remover on this stove. I am waiting for the glass window to arrive and when it is done I will post the results. Then will be able to test it when the weather cools down.

 

[Blazzinghot]

Finally got the glass. This stove was hard to clean and is a little pitted but it turned out great. I hooked it up to my shop today and will test it tonight or in the morning.

 

[Blazzinghot]

I have been able to build several fires in this wood stove. I have tried it with my modification and without by putting screws in the holes I drilled. It does not seem to make much difference either way. At first it did not seem like the stove was getting enough air. I found that you have to get the stove very hot before you close the door. But even then the adjustment on the stove is very minimal as the primary air above the door has only about a 3/4 inch adjustment. I tried different kinds of firewood and was able to get the stove up to 470 degrees. The only way to over fire this stove is to leave the door cracked open. My flue was about 13 ft. long. In short not the best design for its time but will be a good stove for someone's work shop.

 

[coaly]

You don’t have enough temperature differential between the inside and outside of chimney to make it perform correctly. You won’t get enough air through the intake until temps are below 40, and performance will increase as it gets colder than that.

 

[Blazzinghot]

coaly I thought about the air temp but I don't understand the science behind it. For example lets say I have this stove hooked up in my shop when the temp is 30 out. Then when my shop warms up to 65 then the outside air being brought into the stove is now 65 what happens to the air differential? And only one short section of the flue will be exposed to the cold which is double wall insulated pipe so have a hard time seeing how the temp would make much difference once the insulated pipe is warmed up. I am sure this is silly question but I have to ask to learn.

There is another factor I hooked up my homemade tank stove with a brick liner inside with a secondary burner with a glass window with an air wash system and it draws in air just fine under the same conditions. I can get this baby really cranking with the primary air controls.

 

[stoveliker]

it's a gas density issue. Warm air goes up. The air in your chimney will be warm - either because you are/start burning, or because it's air leaking out of your home/shop. That goes up like a hot air balloon at the top of your chimney, sucking more air in to it through your stove.

The colder it is outside, the higher the temp differential will be, and the faster the draft.

A reverse draft is the heavy cold air sinking down into/displacing the lighter warmer air in your shop. THat's why forcing warm air (hair dryer) up the chimney works; once it's there it goes up, and in doing so sucking air into your stove to replace what's going up.

 

[Blazzinghot]

stoveliker when you speak of gas density you must be referring to the air inside of the stove as it burns. I tried to find information on air density and wood stoves and could not fine much. I am still trying to solve my question I asked earlier. Maybe someone could point me to a study on this topic. Thanks, I remember some years back I read a study on how a candle burns it was very amazing. The chemical reactions that take place in a simple flame is very complex.

 

[stoveliker]

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[Mo Lake]

I got this stove for free and believe there is still hope for it. It is dated 11/88 and this model was tested in 87. This stove has a tag on the back which I will let you read. The secondary burner is a metal box with about 20 holes on the front. I just added about 45 more 1/8 holes which you can see in the picture where the stove is upside down. The inlet if plenty big for secondary air but not sure how the air will be distributed. The air wash system is right over the top of the word stove and draws in are from the top . The slider does not move more than a 1.2 inch so you can't shut of the air totally. The primary air comes in over the top of the glass window. I am still working on it so any suggestions are welcome.

What do you think about putting an insulated blanket on top of the inside metal box? Will it be to hot for the metal? Or will it make things worse?

The width is 19 inches the depth is 16 inches and the height is 23 1/2 inches counting the legs. It is a small stove still trying to find info on it. I could not find model S131E . Not sure how much space it will heat.

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Also happens that at home i have a Haugh's, from 1990ish.It was there when i bought my house. It is a total pain, I have had three chimney sweeps in and none can clean it. The last time I had it cleaned, before these three, the sweep was super pissed as I had called him back as the stove was spewing smoke, he pulled it out with no care and scratched my stone hearth. None of the sweeps in my area will move the stove to sweep it, it is an insert. I have been unable to use it as it is a smoke buster . I gave up but haven't replaced it as it is $5K+ (and it was a fight getting that estimate) and that seems crazy to me. Too bad because I love a fire. One of the sweeps recommended putting in a clean out door externally in my masonry chimney so I could reach the chimney) Do you think that would solve the cleaning problem so I could use it?

 

[Blazzinghot]

Mo Lake, I have seen pictures of the Haugh's wood stove inserts the front looks just like the stove I had. Are you saying the Haugh's wood stove is a pain or having the chimney cleaned is a pain or both? Does you chimney have a liner in it? Does your Haugh's have windows and can you see if you are getting a good secondary burn? It sounds like the stove is creating allot of creosote.

As far as your chimney question about having a clean out someone else might better answer this question as I am not a chimney person. I have read just enough about chimneys to be dangerous.

 

[Mo Lake]

Mo Lake, I have seen pictures of the Haugh's wood stove inserts the front looks just like the stove I had. Are you saying the Haugh's wood stove is a pain or having the chimney cleaned is a pain or both? Does you chimney have a liner in it? Does your Haugh's have windows and can you see if you are getting a good secondary burn? It sounds like the stove is creating allot of creosote.

As far as your chimney question about having a clean out someone else might better answer this question as I am not a chimney person. I have read just enough about chimneys to be dangerous.

Hi, it is the stove itself. I do have a one story masonry chimney with a steel insert to an offset. Apparently no one can figure out how to clean it as the baffle isn't removable and it is an insert. You can't really remove the creosote from cleaning as there is no smoke shelf which it usually would falls on. I can't actually start a fire as it smokes out my entire room. The house always smells of wood smoke .

 

[Mo Lake]

This is my stove at home

 

[Blazzinghot]

It is a nice looking insert but it sounds from your description that the baffle is welded in place. The problem with the metal baffles is they flake inside and can plug up the secondary burner holes. Hopefully some of the chimney people on this forum will jump in and give you some ideas about the smoke and the chimney. If no one replies start a new thread and ask for help on wood stove insert leaking smoke.

 

[Mo Lake]

Will do. Thanks.

 

[coaly]

Hi, it is the stove itself. I do have a one story masonry chimney with a steel insert to an offset. Apparently no one can figure out how to clean it as the baffle isn't removable and it is an insert. You can't really remove the creosote from cleaning as there is no smoke shelf which it usually would falls on. I can't actually start a fire as it smokes out my entire room. The house always smells of wood smoke .

What doesn’t make sense is if the liner is connected to the top of Insert as it should be, extending to chimney top, all debris when cleaning from top falls into stove above baffle for removal.

Smoke or smell inside is lack of draft. Any leaks into chimney will leak INTO a correctly drafting chimney flue.

Heated exhaust gasses from combustion are lighter than outside air and rise up flue. The temperature differential between inside and outside of flue determines how fast gasses rise inside. This is measured as draft.

The hot rising gasses create a lower air pressure than outside of flue, connector pipe and stove. Any openings into the system allows atmospheric air pressure to PUSH into opening. The only opening must be the air intake. Air rushing in carries oxygen with it causing combustion.

The key is keeping the inside flue temp above 250*f to the top. Below this critical temperature water vapor from combustion condenses on flue walls allowing smoke particles to stick. This forms creosote, so while smoke is present it is mandatory to keep flue temp above 250 to expel water vapor out the top without condensing.

Any leak into flue or connector pipe decreases the inner flue temperature by allowing indoor or outdoor into flue. Less temperature differential, less NET draft. Smoke rolls in when doors are open and fire doesn’t burn clean getting enough oxygen by the push into firebox through intake.

 

[Hoytman]

If you want to see an older version of these stoves do a search for “Solarwood” here on the forum, as they were made by Haugh’s, and I have a couple threads I started dedicated to them.

 

[clancey]

Very interesting thread..clancey

 

[mellow]

These old Haughs/CFM stoves (including that insert) are 35:1 stoves (hence the 1 air control on the front). They had to have an exemption due to burning so poorly at low temps, they need to be burned hot to get a somewhat clean burn.

35:1 Ratio - Meaning?

I was looking up some things about exemptions at the EPA site. Saw lots of stoves with this 35:1 air ratio. Didn't see a definition of that. I can see the EPA is soon to close the gaps for all wood burning appliances made, even pizza ovens and chimineas. But anyway, would like to know why stoves...

www.hearth.com

They are the "value" priced wood stoves back in the day.

 

[clancey]

I could be wrong but maybe they were a sort of sears product because of being a value priced stove and its sad now for I loved that store...clancey

 

[Acores]

This is my stove at home

We have the same stove with the same problems but ours is not built into a hearth. We are thinking about making a small hatch in the back of the stove where the creosote is building up to allow us to clean without removing the chimney. Did anybody do anything like this?

This is my stove at home

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