Hearth Extension

[moterhead3]

I want to extend my hearth this year so I don't have to use my old banged up portable hearth extension. I want to replace my existing hearth tiles and come out 26" from the front of my fireplace. That means cutting 12" of my 3/4" red oak floor. Circular saw I guess. Scary. I'd like to go with 12" slate gray tiles. My new size will be 26" x 64" and flush with the floor. I'm thinking I'll need some concrete board to bring the tiles up to the hardwood level? Any ideas or advice? Pictures of hearth designs? Because of the size, can I make up the 2" deep by 4" width by the gaps in the 12" tiles or do I need some thin outer tile trim. Lots of questions.
Thanks
Bud

 

[edthedawg]

Hey Bud - it can be done, but yes - a lot of work. Look at my very oldest posts and you'll find a thread or two showing my pics doing the same thing. I'll post 'em later when i get some more time if you can't find 'em. Most important thing is to triple-check your required clearances and the R-value requirements for the hearth. Both based on your stove. So whatcha puttin' on this new fandangled hearth y'got?

 

[Yagminas Masonry and Wood-heat]

I want to extend my hearth this year so I don't have to use my old banged up portable hearth extension. I want to replace my existing hearth tiles and come out 26" from the front of my fireplace. That means cutting 12" of my 3/4" red oak floor. Circular saw I guess. Scary. I'd like to go with 12" slate gray tiles. My new size will be 26" x 64" and flush with the floor. I'm thinking I'll need some concrete board to bring the tiles up to the hardwood level? Any ideas or advice? Pictures of hearth designs? Because of the size, can I make up the 2" deep by 4" width by the gaps in the 12" tiles or do I need some thin outer tile trim. Lots of questions.
Thanks
Bud

Maybe best to get the tile first and do a little lay out. Some tiles are 12" bang on and some are 11-3/4". So I'd lay it out with the size of joint you want or what "fits" best and take it from there. Cement board is great to lay on. And also, you should score the oak before cutting.

 

[moterhead3]

Ed- I have a napoleon 1402 insert.

Yag- score it with what?

 

[moterhead3]

Here's a picture.

 

[SteveKG]

You can score with a box cutter, use a steel straight edge unless you are in possession of very steady hands. If you want you can score it lightly and then go over it again. It really helps to keep the wood from splitting

I did something sort of similar, but I intentionally set the field stone [flattest and thinnest I could collect] an inch and a half below the floor level so that ash and etc. would fall into there. I used some of the oak to trim it with mitered corners. Probably wouldn't work for everyone but we really like it, and visitors always comment how well it works. I suppose if it's in a traffic area you wouldn't want a lower level floor spot there so people won't trip. Summertimes, one of our dogs likes to lie in there on the cooler stones.

The cement backer-board is a really good idea.

 

[edthedawg]

Bud,

You need to identify what's underneath the oak flooring. I'd get a good circ saw myself, cut to the edges, and hand-chisel the rest, once you know exactly what you're gonna cut out. Making up the thickness to flush it all out is easy enough w/ 1/4" and 1/2" concrete or cement board (I'd go w/ old Durock if I could find it) and thinset (VersaBond is my favorite). Laying it all out ahead of time as accurately as possible is a great idea - you can fudge the rest w/ grout lines if needed. A perimeter trim or edge piece looks really great, too, esp. if it has a lip of any kind and you wanna hide a less than absolutely perfect cut.

Bottom line, no matter what tho - Your floor structure underneath is critical to avoid the tile and/or grout winding up w/ cracks down the road.

 

[moterhead3]

Well I'm ready for winter without my ugly hearth extension. Everything went pretty well. Used 1/2 inch concrete board and 13 x 13 tiles. 9 tile cuts and didn't mess up one, new record for me. Was going to use leveler between the concrete board and the base of the old hearth, but I busted out the old base and poured new concrete and finished it off level with the board. Best of all it wont look as dirty, the gray ash will blend in with the tile. I'd swear that stove gained weight since I first installed it, I know I did. Thanks for the advise.

 

[branchburner]

Nice job - looks great!

 

[SteveKG]

Very nice job.

 

[Joey]

Nice job Really Hot, I will be doing the same thing as you in the next few weeks,,,I also have the same stove. I'm gonna use stone instead of tile to extend the hearth also. I have a question about the gasket on your 1402. Is there a small gap on the bottom of the gasket, where the gasket material comes together?? Or is the gasket one solid piece? Only have had my stove for a few months, and noticed the small "break" in the gasket last night. It might have been there the entire time, but I just dont remember seeing it. I'm not having any issues with the stove at all,,its runnin great, but I just wanna be sure this is the way the gasket is supposed to fit..thanx..Joey

 

[stejus]

Nice job. I can't see the detail along the edge of the tile and wood floor, but it looks good. I know when cutting wood floors it tough to get a nice clean cut, especially while nailed down to the floor.

 

[moterhead3]

Joey- Thanks. My door gasket had a gap and I suspected a small air leak when it was new. I trimed the edges pulled it out a little on both sides, pulled it together and glued it with high temp permatex. I have better controll of the damper and the pematex has held up fine. I used a slate colored tile because of the uniform thickness. I wanted it to be flush with the floor.
Stejus- Thanks. I took my time, measured the oak 20x, cut once, measured the tiles 20x, cut once. I have about a fingernail gap between the wood and the tile and the tiles are flush with the floor. It turned out perfect. (Dosen't happen to me that often) After I was done, I read about leaving an expansion gap between tile and hardwood floors. My old hearth was flush with the wood and it didn't move in fifty years and so far everythings good. If I do have a problem I'll very carefully cut around the edge with my circular saw.