Ok everyone... I've resigned to building my new hearth with the recommended r-value of 6.6, but I won't be able to start on it right away. I would like to know what you guys think of using the stove without the recommended hearth r-value. I'm not sure what 's under the existing slate hearth, but I figure that if I closely monitor the temperature under and around the stove, then I should be ok. I won't be loading and burning through the night or unattended, and if the hearth gets too warm, I'll shut it down. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Hearth Temperature
- Thread starter rsiros
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If you don't mind, I think we should be forwarding your contact information to the Vonage marketing department.
-SF
-SF
Vonage has an ad campaign - "People do stupid things"
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I think he is voting against using your stove without the recommended hearth insulation value. I would second that. Just build the hearth, use a heatshield, or longer legs.
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I think he is voting against using your stove without the recommended hearth insulation value. I would second that. Just build the hearth, use a heatshield, or longer legs.
Im guessing you arnt getting a permit either, cause if you are you will never pass. And you are giving your insurance co an out if your house burns down. but hey no big deal
OkOkOk... I get it. The hearth is going to be built but we can't start until mid next week. This wasn't suggested to be a permanent situation.
We had two experiences in WV before we knew about stoves - one was with a pipe thought the wall - burnt down the toolshed, and the other was with removing the legs from a stove (similar to your situation) - within 2 days, even on a UL stoveboard, the floor started smoldering and we had to remove the stove....
Now if you are asking about possible temp setups, that is another thing......for instance 6 inch hollow cement blocks with the holes lined up sideways with a sheet of sheet metal below and above would have quite a high R-Value, as is evidenced by it's suggestion by NFPA for use with short leg stoves.
So, the moral of the story, is that you can wing it on the cheap, but at least do it respectably.
Now if you are asking about possible temp setups, that is another thing......for instance 6 inch hollow cement blocks with the holes lined up sideways with a sheet of sheet metal below and above would have quite a high R-Value, as is evidenced by it's suggestion by NFPA for use with short leg stoves.
So, the moral of the story, is that you can wing it on the cheap, but at least do it respectably.
I know what it's like to be itching to get the stove going, but half done solutions often end up being permanent ones after procrastination sets in. Although there is a world of shortcuts out there, we can't condone most of them. Thanks for understanding. And please feel free to ask questions. We like the hearth community to be around for awhile.
I think what everyone is saying is BE PATIENT. Get your hearth done correctly, THEN fire that bad boy up. I know - its like a 7 year old waiting for xmas morning, but the alternative COULD be really bad.
(you ever go out to the garage for a simple task and then 3 hours later make it back into the house---I have. Its the unknown that will get ya.)
(you ever go out to the garage for a simple task and then 3 hours later make it back into the house---I have. Its the unknown that will get ya.)
It is amazing the difference a botom heat shield will add as well. I didnt like how hot the slate floor of my hearth was getting (although I am certain it was safe and within limits) so I installed a bottom heat shield. The hearth floor barley gets warm now.
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