Hearthstone Clydesdale Draft Port

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Geoff C

Burning Hunk
Oct 29, 2011
150
PA
I am trying to figure out what's going on with my Clydesdale. It will shoot up over 650+ no matter what I do with the air control. I am replacing the door gasket and sealing up some old screw holes in the flue adapter.


I bought a manometer to check the draft but I can't find a fitting to attach the tubing. The unit has a 5/16" hole threaded into the top of it. I can't find a 5/16 to barb fitting for the hose.

Any ideas?
 
I am trying to figure out what's going on with my Clydesdale. It will shoot up over 650+ no matter what I do with the air control. I am replacing the door gasket and sealing up some old screw holes in the flue adapter.


I bought a manometer to check the draft but I can't find a fitting to attach the tubing. The unit has a 5/16" hole threaded into the top of it. I can't find a 5/16 to barb fitting for the hose.

Any ideas?
650 is not unusual for this insert. How tall is the liner on it?

A couple things you could try are burning larger splits and turning down the air control sooner, much sooner. That will slow down the outgassing from the wood which is feeding a robust secondary combustion. Start turning down the air as soon as the wood starts burning well. Turn it down enough to slow down and make the flames lazy, but not out. Then let the fire regain strength and turn it down again. Do this in steps until the air is all the way closed.
 
650 is not unusual for this insert. How tall is the liner on it?

A couple things you could try are burning larger splits and turning down the air control sooner, much sooner. That will slow down the outgassing from the wood which is feeding a robust secondary combustion. Start turning down the air as soon as the wood starts burning well. Turn it down enough to slow down and make the flames lazy, but not out. Then let the fire regain strength and turn it down again. Do this in steps until the air is all the way closed.


Yea. I have been doing that. Its about 19' insulated liner. It has been shooting up to 750, when I step down the air it down it just keeps rising. It seems like its just constantly running away. From the flue collar is there is an adjustable stainless elbow that goes into the liner connector. The guy that installed it cut the liner short so he put the elbow on. Wasn't thrilled with the install. If you want it done right....


I've also never been able to shut the air all the way down on this stove (which I have read other people say the same thing). If I shut it all the way down I get 0 flames and smoke pouring out the chimney.
 
The liner height is perfect. If you can't shut it down all the way, shut it down as far as possible until the flames are lazy.

I'm a little surprised you can't turn the air all the way down without starving the fire. Is there a point just before smoldering that you can have a lazy flame? How well seasoned is the wood that's being burned? Has it been tested for moisture content?
 
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How and where are you measuring your temps?
 
I am trying to figure out what's going on with my Clydesdale. It will shoot up over 650+ no matter what I do with the air control. I am replacing the door gasket and sealing up some old screw holes in the flue adapter.


I bought a manometer to check the draft but I can't find a fitting to attach the tubing. The unit has a 5/16" hole threaded into the top of it. I can't find a 5/16 to barb fitting for the hose.

Any ideas?
Just use a piece of brake line for the manometer install , us coal guys have them permanently installed so we can monitor changes and adjust barometric Damper in extreme weather or when out of adjustment ( I cover the baro when I burn wood
 
The wood is well seasoned. Most pieces test between 10-15 with a few at 20%. I measure the temps right in the center where the draft bolt is. There is a magnetic thermo and the digital laser reads the same. The stove in the center gets up to 700+ On the sides where the fan is blowing it is usually cooler 500.


Good idea with the brake line. I'll give it a shot. I am not saying the draft is a problem I am just trying to rule things out. I just started it up to cure the new door gasket and furnace cement on the elbow and joints. Lets see how it goes.
 
None of the temps you cite are excessive and temp should rise as you cut air but I'm still not clear how you're getting readings. This is an insert right? Is the surround off or are you shooting through the glass into the fire with the IR?

Also is this a used stove? Assuming so since you're replacing the gasket.
 
I guess I've just seen people get nervous when these stoves go over 650. This is not a flush insert. There is about a 5" lip that sticks beyond the fireplace opening, reading is from the top, it is about 6" in front of the flue collar.

The stove is new. I burned about 1/2 a cord last season and this season the gasket failed the dollar bill test by the door latch.

So far it seems to be behaving a little better with the new gasket and the stovepipe sealed up.