Hearthstone green mountain 60 problems

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Oak really does take 3 years to season. That's all I burn. You can burn green wood just fine in a fire pit. The draft is a function of how hot the fire box is. So until it's hot there's very little draft. To get marginal wood to burn, you may need to burn a few reloads, a bed of coals before closing the door fully.
 
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@Scoutmaster-Jedi how many fires have you had? I think you will find the dripping stops eventually.
My stove is in a cabin I use on the weekends. This season, I've been using it since mid September -- so quite a few fires. But since the stove sits cold for 5 days to 2 weeks between use, it drips quite a bit on start up for the weekend. As I've observed this many times now, I think it's because of condensation in the stove. Even dry wood creates a lot of water vapor in the exhaust gas. (Fire itself is a chemical reaction that is creating H2O and CO2.) It seems reasonable to me that the stove itself and the double-walled chimney contain a great deal of cold mass that can easily condensate that water-vapor into drips.
 
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We have a new Green Mountain 60 and I hate it. We have to keep the door cracked to keep it lit, and when we open it up to place another log, smoke fills our living room. I need this issue fixed.
 
We have a new Green Mountain 60 and I hate it. We have to keep the door cracked to keep it lit, and when we open it up to place another log, smoke fills our living room. I need this issue fixed.
Is it setup as a rear exit? And what is the chimney height?

I've noticed the east west loading results in poor air flow to the majority of the wood. Laying down 2 small pieces of wood allows air to flow under the load. This is especially crucial for cold starts, it also helps on reloads. Wet wood will make both of these hard.
 
We have a new Green Mountain 60 and I hate it. We have to keep the door cracked to keep it lit, and when we open it up to place another log, smoke fills our living room. I need this issue fixed.
Sucks to hear. Have you read the manual? I hope you're pointing the bypass lever to the floor before you open the front door.

Like others have said you really need a good bed of coals to keep it going well. Loading one or two pieces at a time, I'm not sure it's made to do that. Maybe your logs are too big? It will burn better if they are split.

Don't load until there's no flame and mostly red coals.

Crack the door for a minute or two before opening fully, then open slowly. If it's red coals its not bad but if I open the door and theres some black pieces that aren't red coals yet I will get some stinky air leak into the room. It doesn't take much to make the room stink.
 
Right from the manual - I thought this interesting when I read this myself - Not sure if this applies, but .....

"During the refueling and rekindling of a cool fire, or a fire that has burned down to the charcoal phase, operate the stove at a medium to high firing rate for about 10 minutes to ensure that the catalysts reach approximately 600 °F. Once the catalysts reach operating temperature, the bypass handle can be closed. When reloading the stove, try to keep an open path behind the Lower Primary Air Opening (LPAO). It is helpful to leave a small valley in the coal bed behind the LPAO to insure faster re- lighting."
 
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