I just received a wood stove yesterday I believe to be a papa bear stove, I hooked it up today as it was like new w/ very little use, Org. paint with no rust. I added a heat exchanger 24 inches up. My question is where should I place the damper? I assume below the heat exchanger but seen pictures of them on both sides witch is puzzling to me. Any Info would be helpful.
Heat Exchanger Installation Question
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Welcome to the Forum, moved your post to a new thread of it's own since it's not Fisher specific.
More stove users will see this to comment in the Classic Forum.
I can tell you the Papa Bear did not originally use a pipe damper at all. They were designed to connect to existing chimney flues or fireplaces with larger flues at the time, and required much more heat to be left up the chimney to draft properly. With the advent of insulated prefab metal chimneys and insulated flue liners, a pipe damper became beneficial. (as well as baffle plate in stove preventing so much heat from escaping) You should have a 6 inch flue all the way to the top, and keep it at least 250* f. all the way up to avoid creosote. So keep in mind you're extracting more heat from the flue. Lower flue temperature reduces draft. This is like putting a smaller engine on the stove. Depending on chimney size, you may not need a damper, or be able to use an extractor at all. (without making your chimney a creosote factory)
More stove users will see this to comment in the Classic Forum.
I can tell you the Papa Bear did not originally use a pipe damper at all. They were designed to connect to existing chimney flues or fireplaces with larger flues at the time, and required much more heat to be left up the chimney to draft properly. With the advent of insulated prefab metal chimneys and insulated flue liners, a pipe damper became beneficial. (as well as baffle plate in stove preventing so much heat from escaping) You should have a 6 inch flue all the way to the top, and keep it at least 250* f. all the way up to avoid creosote. So keep in mind you're extracting more heat from the flue. Lower flue temperature reduces draft. This is like putting a smaller engine on the stove. Depending on chimney size, you may not need a damper, or be able to use an extractor at all. (without making your chimney a creosote factory)
I would suggest running the flue temp a bit hotter if this is a Magic Heat stack robber. You want the temp exiting the MH to be high enough to not be a creosote machine.
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