Heatilator auger won't shut off

[PitRow]

Hi all, first post. I seem to have an issue that is exactly opposite of what comes up whenever I search for answers. My auger won't turn off.

I have a PS50 and it's been fine for a handful of years now. At the end of last season my wife called me in from outside to tell me that the stove had a huge fire going. Sure enough it did, way bigger than normal, the entire firebox was full of flame. So we shut it down and let it die and I was going to check it out over the summer, but never did. Just today I went to get it ready for the upcoming season and cleaned it out (just a cursory clean, I know I need to do a deep clean) and turned it on to see if I could figure out why it had a problem at the end of the season.

Well, long story short, the auger does not turn off. It comes on from the moment the thermostat calls for heat and stays on. It will continue until the firepot is overflowing and just keep on going. Obviously if the pellets ignite it makes a huge fire, but with this much pellets being dumped into the firepot it has a hard time igniting and just smolders for a long while.

I've downloaded the service manual and done a fair amount of internet searching but everything is about the auger not coming on, nothing about it staying on. I'm guessing this is a control board issue, but I'm not even sure where to start checking.

Thanks for any advice you all may have.

 

[PitRow]

Not sure if it matters too much, but it's actually at PS50, not CAB50 as I previously indicated. I've edited the original post

 

[Stovensen]

Hello PitRow,

A week or two ago we had a Whitfield pellet stove with exactly the same issue as your PS50.
You can study my suggestions on how to fix it here:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/whitfield-control-board-problem.163145/

Your PS50 has different wiring and control board, but the overall procedure should be the same: You'll need to trace out the stuck ( shorted ) triac on the circuit board.
The hot phase to the auger motor is the red wire connected to pin 10 on the control board. From pin 10 you should be able work your way to the faulty triac by following the copper trace on the board.
Once you have found the right triac you must write down the exact text written on it, so you can order a correct replacement in your local electronics shop. A triac is only a couple of $

Good luck and take care

 

[jzm2cc]

Assuming wiring hasn't been tampered with, it sounds like control board triac is shorted so auger is always powered. $200 for new board or try to replace triacs which is pretty cheap <$10 plus labor by technician.