Heatilator NDV3933I Won't Light

[lewisb13]

We bought our brand new (never lived in) house in December of 2014. We didnt move in until February of 15 because we were doing major renovation upstairs in order to add a mother in law suite. So our fireplace didnt get used until the winter of 15/16'. We live in Houston so we maybe turned it on about 10 times? Anyways, I just went to fire it up a few minutes ago and the ignitor clicks a few times, the pilot light lites for a couple seconds, and then the pilot goes out. Kind of disappointing since its pretty new. I hooked my multimeter up to the main gas valve and for a split second, I get a little DC voltage as expected. So the main valve is getting power. Is there a way to verify its actually opening? If I follow the main gas line it goes into an area of the fireplace that is not easily accessible. I was wanting to see if it was an orifice issue. I'm hoping this is a warranty issue, but if not, I need to fix this.

Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk

 

[lewisb13]

Its MAJOR surgery to get to the main burner and I'm hoping it doesnt come to that.

Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk

 

[Heatsource]

try cleaning the flame sensor with some steel wool

 

[lewisb13]

Where is the flame sensor?

Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk

 

[Heatsource]

its one of the thin wire rods next to the pilot flame. one is the igniter, one is the flame sensor

 

[scamman]

We bought our brand new (never lived in) house in December of 2014. We didnt move in until February of 15 because we were doing major renovation upstairs in order to add a mother in law suite. So our fireplace didnt get used until the winter of 15/16'. We live in Houston so we maybe turned it on about 10 times? Anyways, I just went to fire it up a few minutes ago and the ignitor clicks a few times, the pilot light lites for a couple seconds, and then the pilot goes out. Kind of disappointing since its pretty new. I hooked my multimeter up to the main gas valve and for a split second, I get a little DC voltage as expected. So the main valve is getting power. Is there a way to verify its actually opening? If I follow the main gas line it goes into an area of the fireplace that is not easily accessible. I was wanting to see if it was an orifice issue. I'm hoping this is a warranty issue, but if not, I need to fix this.

I have the same problem on a NDV3933i installed in 2014. Turn on wall switch ---sparks and lights pilot --no main burner--spark stops then pilot goes out. Replaced the spark igniter assembly ----- much better pilot but same result (cost $40.00) Main will not come on. They tell me flame rectification is what cuts the spark so I guess the igniter and module are good. The valve is left at $120.00 & should have lasted more than 2 years. I also get DC voltage at the main terminal but not the .98 dc volt they say is necessary ?? That's a lot for a flame rod to generate but it is the power that opens the main valve --SO ? Did you fix yours and what did you replace if so ?