I would suspect you rounds, that are rolling forward are not seasoned, especially if they are oak (oak rounds take forever to season). I fully pack mine (28000) with medium and large splits. There is no rolling. You need to split your rounds.WranglerBowman said:Ok full load I can maybe fit 60# of wood in. The 4.4cf firebox in the 28000 is stupid because, only about 3cf of firebox can be used because of the flue lever and the fact that if I jam pack it full of logs the front logs burn and the logs behind that just keep rolling into the glass on the doors. I wish I could get the stove to burn back to front so I don't have that risk. Many times I have opend the stove door only to have a burning log roll out on my feet, that's why I would really like a stove that load front to back so the logs can only roll to the sides and not into the glass door. When I say load every 4 hours I'm talking about adding 20# of wood (softer hardwoods) so I can maintain a higher temperatures, I'm not talking about reloading 60# of wood every 4 hours.
I have an 8in stainless flex liner in a chimney that's 24ft deep, from fireplace bottom to chimney cap. My fireplace is 36x28in but I'm not worried about fitting an insert in the fireplace because Im going to rebuild my fireplace to accomodate a free standing stove out in the room.
Yes I do have the dogs. I assume you don't have the dogs? I have never had the rolling into the doors your referring to.WranglerBowman said:Doesn't matter to me whether it's top or rear vent. I would think that top vents work the best with a cat.
This is split Oak logs. Because the stove burns from front to back and bottom to top with the air intake located on the bottom front doors the logs closest to the air intake burn fastest and the logs behind it drop and can roll/drop against the glass. If you get a nice even burn from your 28000 where the logs don't burn from front to back and bottom to top I'm all ears. Do you have log dogs in your 28000 gzecc?
WranglerBowman said:Ok full load I can maybe fit 60# of wood in. The 4.4cf firebox in the 28000 is stupid because, only about 3cf of firebox can be used because of the flue lever and the fact that if I jam pack it full of logs the front logs burn and the logs behind that just keep rolling into the glass on the doors. I wish I could get the stove to burn back to front so I don't have that risk. Many times I have opend the stove door only to have a burning log roll out on my feet, that's why I would really like a stove that load front to back so the logs can only roll to the sides and not into the glass door. When I say load every 4 hours I'm talking about adding 20# of wood (softer hardwoods) so I can maintain a higher temperatures, I'm not talking about reloading 60# of wood every 4 hours.
I have an 8in stainless flex liner in a chimney that's 24ft deep, from fireplace bottom to chimney cap. My fireplace is 36x28in but I'm not worried about fitting an insert in the fireplace because Im going to rebuild my fireplace to accomodate a free standing stove out in the room.
Above is my technique. I get about a quart of power like soot at the end of the year. My wood is super seasoned top shelf hardwoods.gzecc said:I am able to close my flue at 300 deg. That is about 3/4 hour from a cold start. I think your leaving your flue open too much. Most of your heat is going up the chimney. If you have good dry fuel, you don't need to wait for a good bed of coals. You need to wait for good operating temps to ensure efficient burn. In the evening around 11pm I load my stove about 75% full (if its an avg cold night), leave the air and door open a crack, wait until its fully engulfed (20mins), then I shut it down. I then wait to see what the door temperature maintains. If it stays in the 300 range (for 15min), I'm off to bed. The wife gets up before me a little before 6am. The stove is usually cycling on an off by then. I am always amazed that all the wood is gone. Depending on how much wood I put in and the size of the splits, the stove is always warm to the touch still at 8am. Hope this helps.WranglerBowman said:The Buck 91 Catalytic is what I was orginally looking at before I thought I wanted better efficiency, then I went with the Quad 4300 because it seems more efficient then the 91. I have a moisture meter and the Oak has around 20 to 25% moisture content, not totally dry. I generally keep the flue closed as soon as I see a good bed of coals. During weekends I normally get secondary cumbustion with the flue closed the and intakes half open on the 28000. i realize the upgrade is expensive but I've been looking for used stoves, a couple years old that people decided they just don't want to fool with wood anymore. I've seen 4300's and 91's for sale in the last month but want to make sure I make the right decision and this site seems pretty "wood burner" educated for the most part. I'm liking the Blaze King but don't see any for sale within 400 miles of me and there's no way I'm dropping 3g's on something that doesn't move (car, tractor, etc...). I think I operate the 28000 just about as efficiently as I can given that it's an old dragon and I'm not home all the time.
The power generally goes out in our area 2 or 3 times during the winter, sometimes for a day. Have been without power for 3 to 5 days though during big Noreater events.
Welp I bought a Buck Stove Model 91 about a month ago and have been very impressed so far. It's well engineered stove that kicks out a lot of heat with little wood. It's a 5 year old stove with a new cat and picked it up in WV, about a 5 hour drive one way, but worth the trip to me. I can't believe how long I can go between reloading when I use large logs. The only thing I dont' like about the stove is the fact that the firebox is only about 12" tall due to a heat shield that helps restrict flames from reaching the cat. I would like the stove more if I could pile on the wood and not have to worry about it for 16+ hours, but still easily getting burn times of 10-12 hours by just throwing 3 big logs on a good coal bed.
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