Anyone added storage to the Heatmaster G series? I see they can be installed in a shop or other out building. I have a nice 550 gallon Stainless square tank, any reason this should not be tied in as open storage?
I don't see any reason not to. I have a g200. I am on my third season. It is a workhorse. I went from burning 12-13 cords per year down to 6 3/4-7 cords per year. Since you wouldn't be doing batch burning, just drawing out the cycles to about 2.25 times longer than a normal cycle with the g200 with 200 gallons I would say that you may gain a slight efficiency because of the less start ups and shut downs but you will probably need to increase your purge cycles to more often to keep the coal bed alive during the long idle times.
It is an open system. If you did a full batch burn system with an all out charge until wood load depleted system then you would be running like any indoor gasser system as far as return temps, no? System would slowly cool off until you needed to fire again. The firebox is 15 cuft. You could really get a large water store charged up with one loading. I would think if you were going to go the direction of batch burning then I would go all out and do a 1000 gallon plus size. I am not that familiar with batch burning though so maybe I am wrong.
The owb gassers have to pass an epa test. they make 4 runs with 4 different btu draws. I think the rates that they ran the g200 was 32k , 55k, 120k, 210k. On the 210k btu load they depleted a full firebox with 160 pounds of wood in 4 hours. You would probably need a 100 plate hx on the storage.
And then just wait for the idiots at work to vacuum collapse another stainless liquid tote = 550 gallons more storage
Don't you mean helpers? [emoji6][emoji1]
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Hmm. I thought I posted this last night.
I think you'd be OK with the g-200 burning like that. but know that if you have to start it at 120F (minimum useable temp?) you will be a while till you get it up to proper temp to clean up the burn really well. it's meant to stay hot, and runs well that way. 550 gallons plus the G-200 will only take about 2 hours to charge once the burner is rolling at full output. you will need more expansion I think than is built in to the water jacket of the G-200. the tank you have will work well though because it's well below the height of the top of the G-200.
depending on your heat load, I'd seriously think about a G-100, as that's better suited to that size storage, and a couple loads a day could handle most residential heating loads, with the bonus ability to Idle well if you need to, as well as taking much less footprint than the G-200.
I'm heating a 1400 SF stone barn with my G-200. it's pretty leaky but at sub zero temps I can heat it for 24 hours with a ~250? Lb load of 20% MC wood. 3-6" rounds. oak and ash. I'm going to have to weigh a wood load one of these days and analyze the boiler output.
Hi Karl,
Appreciate the feedback, I've been looking at the Garn or Switzer boilers in the 1000 gallon sizes, but the Heatmaster sparked my attention as it can be installed inside a shop or garage - though I've not heard of many installed this way. I would not consider installing something outside in the elements - I have a 24'x24' garage available for boiler/wood storage use that is located in between the heated structures.
The Heatmaster would probably be able to be sold if I ever move or get too old to do the wood thing. The other two not as likely at least to the farmers around here. Yes I could just leave it behind, but finding a new owner that the wood set up actually has value to is not too likely these days.
I plan to heat a 3400 sq ft house that requires about 200 gallons/month of propane in the coldest months, and a 2400 sq ft Quonset style shop. The shop is spray foamed but the slab is not insulated - currently it takes about 75lbs of wood a day to keep it above freezing, and 3 times that + a little propane when I want to warm it up to work on projects.
I would like to size the system for 1 load a day. More than that would be acceptable on days I want to keep the shop warmer than 40F.
As far as storage sizing, not limited to the 550 gallon tank- I just happen to have one that was basically "free".
The house requires about 30,000 BTU per hour in the coldest months then, must be pretty new and or pretty tight for 3400 SF. I would figure about 50,000 for a shop like that. so you are in the 80,000 btu at the coldest time. you could do 24 hours reasonably well with a G-200 most of the heating season, if you kept the shop at 40F, and only bumped it up to work in there, you'd add a load a day. YMMV, I'm doing this sight unseen, of course.
The garn and switzer are good units, but the ability to provide 170-180F water all the time makes working with a G-series nice to work with from a design and installation standpoint.
I'm a huge fan of panel radiators. you can do room by room zoning, still have your coil above the A coil in the furnace for whatever you need. you can run them with 1/2 or even 3/8" pex, and snake it thru all sorts of places. I don't remember garn's reasoning against the condensing furnace.Higher available water temp is certainly a plus, I've spent some effort in determining what kind of emitters will work in a retrofit situation with out gutting the house (not happening). So there are some places where radiant wall could be installed, but the bulk of the work will have to be from a water to air HX above the A/C coil in the existing FA furnace. I assume the water/air HX is pretty common with G200 installs? For some reason GARN warns against it on a condensing gas furnace.... aren't they all condensing gas furnaces now? Can't even install a 80% furnace around here.
The house is a 1982 build with very good insulation considering the era. 2x6 walls spray foamed, generous cellulose in ceiling, foam on foundation walls. Door and window seals needed help but I've replaced the window seals and replaced the doors.
For some reason GARN warns against it on a condensing gas furnace.... aren't they all condensing gas furnaces now? Can't even install a 80% furnace around here.
I've heard that you can't have a heating WAHX with an A/C coil in the same plenum. Is this true?
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