Heatmaster G200 Install thread

Aranyic Posted By Aranyic, Aug 3, 2019 at 2:49 PM

  1. Aranyic

    Aranyic
    Burning Hunk 2.
    NULL
    

    Sep 3, 2015
    127
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    Loc:
    Ohio
    Well I pulled the trigger on a Heatmaster G200 and 80' of logstor today after about 2 years of debating another indoor stove vs indoor boiler and storage vs outdoor furnace. Finally settled on the outdoor unit after much discussion with my wife and knowing myself. I would grow tired of building a fire 1-2x per day with an indoor boiler and with my basement layout it would be a pretty complex system. That's the reason I ended up with a blazeking princess at my prior house because it was easy. I opened the bypass, loaded wood, let it char and it was good for 12 hrs + with no fuss. This looks as close as I can get to that while tying it into my central hvac.

    It's on my trailer in the drive where it will probably sit until Friday or Saturday next week when I rent an excavator for the trenching and moving it. I was hopeful I could use my JD 2025r to move it around and save myself a couple hundred bucks to just rent a trencher instead. However once it's on the trailer the lift hook is about 9'6" in the air. The machine just isn't big enough. Would have been a little easier on the wallet and yard but it'll be fine. In the end I'll be happier with a wider trench and some sand around the logstor before I back fill it.

    Trench will be about 65' long, 30-36" deep. Friday afternoon/next weekend will be fairly busy. As long as I pickup after 1pm I'll have the excavator and a dump trailer for the weekend for a single day rental. Just gotta stay under 8 engine hours.

    I am not going to putting in a concrete slab for it. I looked at it but it's about 240' from where my drive is around some fence lines to where the OWB will be placed. No way to get the truck to it and they money adds up having the truck out there while moving the concrete around to the final location. I've dug out 4-6" in a 10x14 area that I'll put down some 411 limestone then layout a pad of 4x8x16 solid blocks for the boiler to sit on.

    I'll try and take plenty of pictures but we'll start with an overhead of where the boiler will be in relation to the house and my proud owner picture of it on the trailer.

    Overhead.PNG

    20190803_140946.jpg
     
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  2. E Yoder

    E Yoder
    Feeling the Heat 2.
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    Jan 27, 2017
    288
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    Loc:
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    Nice!
     
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  3. hondaracer2oo4

    hondaracer2oo4
    Feeling the Heat 2.
    NULL
    

    Jan 18, 2012
    412
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    Loc:
    Canterbury NH
    You’ll love it. Going into my 4th season with my g200. Very well built boiler, easy to run, very efficient and great company.
     
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  4. Aranyic

    Aranyic
    Burning Hunk 2.
    NULL
    

    Sep 3, 2015
    127
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    Loc:
    Ohio
    I'm taking a night off from working because honestly I'm sick of sweating for a day or two. I'll get back at it this weekend.

    Picked up the excavator late Thursday afternoon. I was supposed to have a 10' excavator and a 12' dump trailer. The weight was OK overall but excavator wouldn't fit into the trailer right into the trailer. It was either pitching way too much weight on the tongue or to the back. Ended up having to take a tilt equipment trailer which was fine but it means the gravel and sand I had to have delivered. Not a huge deal; cost me $70 for the two deliveries but honestly I would have spent 2 hours on the round trips to get it. So honestly it worked out.

    Thursday night I got a hang of the controls and pulled out some honeysuckle around the clearing where my boiler will be. Got a downpour at 7pm so it was a short evening.

    Friday started digging in the morning and cleared out the rest of my pad then dug the trench. I was digging the trench across a water/electric run to my pole barn. I have no idea where it was buried so I went for 32" deep on my trench and hoped they were deeper. Never found it so it worked out. I did enter the basement wall only 18" or so under ground I pitched it up at the end so that any water that got into the trench didn't flow towards my foundation.

    OpenTrench.jpg

    The dogs out inspecting.

    Dogs.jpg

    So here was where I hit my first real hangup; putting the pipe through the wall. I was too precise on my hole size and made it just as big at the cap that would slide over the pipe to finish the end. That's all well and good if you have straight pipe. However the logstor really doesn't want to be straight; and it's been bound in a coil for long enough that it was slightly ovalized and not an exact circle.

    I drilled all my holes around the circle I drew and then had to use the hammer drill to chisel out the center. Then I spent 3 hours working the pipe through and ovalizing the hole some. At that point I didn't want to make it a lot bigger by drilling a new circle so I just did lots and lots of work with the hammer drill and a chisel bit. It was really difficult to get the correct angle though. I was frustrated with this part. Got about 8" through finally which will be enough to cut the insulation back and put two ends on.

    HoleMarks.jpg

    PipeThrough.jpg

    The electric is through it and it's been sealed on both sides with hydraulic cement as of last night.

    Laid about 3" of mason sand in the bottom of the trench; put the pipe in and back filled it The gravel base for the boiler is about 8" of 57 gravel with 4x8x16 solid blocks in the square. I've got some more gravel to around it still at some point but I don't think it turned out too badly so far for amateur hour on the excavator. I've run skid steers and tractors with front end loaders before but this was new to me. (played on a full sized track hoe for about 30 minutes once when they were doing some work at our office). The tree right behind the pad is gone now also. I did a little more brush clearing the day after that picture.

    LaidPipe.jpg

    FinishedBoilerArea.png

    The boiler is not set yet. The E35 I rented (8000#) didn't have enough rear end on it to lift the boiler which I really didn't expect. It tipped the tracks up off the ground any time I got it close. I even added about 400# of counterweight onto the blade and it just wouldn't do it.

    I guess I'm going to have to try and find either a bigger excavator or maybe a skid steer with forks? my tractor is a Deere 2025r and I don't think it's got the capacity to lift up the G200 if I put a pair of forks on it? I'm open to suggestions moving it. I've got to go about 375' and can't get my pickup and trailer back there some of the turns are too narrow. For those of you that moved it with a skid steer how heavy of a unit did you need?

    Electric is hooked up at the breaker; I'm going to start doing some work with the water heater and inside connections while I sort out how to move the boiler.
     
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  5. SpaceBus

    SpaceBus
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    Nov 18, 2018
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    I didn't realize those OWB units were so heavy even when empty.
     
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  6. hondaracer2oo4

    hondaracer2oo4
    Feeling the Heat 2.
    NULL
    

    Jan 18, 2012
    412
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    Loc:
    Canterbury NH
    Yes the g series is a heavy boiler. I think it is 2600 empty?

    I had my neighbor move it with a off-road forklift. I know people move them with skidsteers. I would say as long as the skidsteer is rated around that you'll be good. You'll want to go with forks to move it though I think.
     
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  7. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    Aug 21, 2013
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    If you were putting "counterweight" on the blade, you were picking on the wrong side...max lifting capacity is with the blade down and make your lift on the blade side.
    And pick it up with the boiler as close to you as you can get...the further away you get the less you can pick...and lifting capacity goes away fast as you move away from the machine. (and with additional height too)
    If you need to move the boiler a distance and cant carry it, leapfrog it...not fast or elegant, but it'll git 'er dun.
    Edit: I looked the E35 up...it should have picked it.
    bobcat.PNG
     
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  8. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    Aug 21, 2013
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    Brochure says 1900# for the G200...
    g200.PNG
     
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  9. Aranyic

    Aranyic
    Burning Hunk 2.
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    Sep 3, 2015
    127
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    I thought it should have too; the only way it could get it into the air at all was with the blade down. To get it off the trailer I had to go blade down and get it as close as I could. I got it a couple inches up and had to pull the trailer out from under. I couldn't move the unit at all and have the boiler in the air at the same time. Even with the boiler about 12" from the unit I'd get 3 lets off the ground and the unit started rolling up off the tracks as the 4th leg lifts off. It didn't lift evenly either which surprised me. The side with the doors would lift up first then the left corner where the rear doors open would lift and the corner where the rear door hinges would stay put on the ground.

    May have just been user error but I couldn't get it. This picture was with it about 30" from the hoe I did get it closer on the last attempt. I've got to go about 350' with then get up onto the pad so leapfrogging it would have been just miserable I would have been afraid of breaking something lifting it that many times. I've got somewhere around 300#+ in the counterweight you see. some concrete blocks broken up and then filled to the top with 57 stone. I may try a skid steer with forks later on if I can track one down.

    //edit there's a weight discrepancy somewhere. The manual says 2400# and the brochure said 1900#.

    http://www.heatmasterss.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/1327-G-Series-Owners-Manual-web.pdf page 8 for where it says 2400.

    E35.jpg
     
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  10. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    Aug 21, 2013
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    It must be 2400, because that mini should pick 1900 no problem...I'm kinda surprised it wouldn't do it with the boiler 12" from the machine...but that pick height was not helping anything at all, so...
    https://blog.bobcat.com/2014/11/compact-excavator-safety-101-calculating-lift-capacity/
    https://www.bobcat.com/compare-brands/excavators?alias=lifting

    You said you can't get the truck/trailer to the boilers pad...can you get the trailer back there with a tractor or something like that?
    But if you can find a decent sized skid steer, you should be able to pick/carry the G200 back there no problem...
     
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  11. hondaracer2oo4

    hondaracer2oo4
    Feeling the Heat 2.
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    Jan 18, 2012
    412
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    Loc:
    Canterbury NH
    Interesting. The 2400 number rings a bell now from the manual. I thought it said 2600 so I had forgot. My father in law tried to move it with his forks on his 35 hp tractor and that was a no go.
     
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  12. hondaracer2oo4

    hondaracer2oo4
    Feeling the Heat 2.
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    Jan 18, 2012
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    Canterbury NH
    One suggestion I can make is that you should seriously reconsider pouring a pad. That pad doesn't need to be thicker than 3.5 inches and I did mine with 80 pound quickrete bags. I did it with a mixer but you could hand spin it. I think I may have used about 20 bags for my 10x4.5 foot pad. I would go with even more room next time infront of the loading door if I did another pour. You will regret not having a pad that you can shovel off come snow and then come spring it will be a sloppy mess without a pad.
     
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  13. E Yoder

    E Yoder
    Feeling the Heat 2.
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    Jan 27, 2017
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    Loc:
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    If you lift with forks use a 2x6 laying flat on the forks to keep it from sliding back and damaging the sides of the boiler. Strap it to the forks if the ground is rough.
    I use a 180 New Holland track skid steer on our yard to unload. Getting underneath with forks really helps.
     
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  14. Aranyic

    Aranyic
    Burning Hunk 2.
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    Sep 3, 2015
    127
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    Loc:
    Ohio
    I'll probably end up pouring a pad around it at some point but it won't be in the initial round of work. Maybe in a phase 2 next summer. At this point I'm a little gun shy to get a skid steer too small (2100#) which is about the max I can trailer with my truck and not go over max tow. Got a 01 Chevy 2500 with the 6.0 gas and the excavator and tilt trailer totaled at about 11000#. To get to a 2600# skid steer and a trailer I'm a little hesitant.

    I went down the local farm store and grabbed a 3500# trailer axle and I'm going to frame out around the base; drop it onto the axle and just pull it that way. I'll use a couple tire off my trailer. Should put me out around $160 and I can always craigslist out the axle if I want to later on. lifted it with a 4 ton bottle jack working a couple inches at a time on each side.

    Lifting.jpg

    The frame shown above is from another project for storing my garbage cans on. Didn't end up using it. I've got some old 4x6's in the barn that I'll run on either side. Tie them together with 2x lumber. Another 4x6 coming out the front on the hitch to connect to (I've got a 2" tongue coupler that I use on some other trailers I'll bolt onto it).

    Framing.jpg

    I'll take my time making sure it all goes together correctly it's not done yet. Started to rain on me some; it should work to go the distance I need though. Back it into place and then lower it back down.
     
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  15. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    Aug 21, 2013
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    Could probably just cut a taper on the front bottom on those 4x6's and use it as a dray (sled)...no axle needed...or even just grab a couple pieces of 1" or 2" steel pipe a foot or two wider than the lumber, roll it along on that using the leapfrog method...works best with a helper to move the pipes.
    Good for you for thinking outside the box here! :cool:
     
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  16. Highbeam

    Highbeam
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    Drag it close and then use the pipe leapfrog trick to land it on the pad. 2500# is like dragging a big cow right? Maybe a moose?
     
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  17. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    Aug 21, 2013
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    That would be a big cow indeed, but yes, a big cow on a sled...should slide on the grass pretty easy I would think.
    I was thinking about this a bit more...I bet if you had some 3/4 - 1" steel pipe to throw down on the ground, it may not want to roll real well in the grass, but the sled would probably scoot very easily across those pipe(s).
    That's how basically how I slide my VF100 into place by myself...put some thin sheet metal (26 GA) under each foot and just slide it around as needed...pretty easy on concrete...considering that it was just me against 600# anyways. (but I didn't have to go too far though either)
     
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  18. SpaceBus

    SpaceBus
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    Damn, I didn't even think to use rollers. Logs would be better and handle bumps better
     
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  19. hondaracer2oo4

    hondaracer2oo4
    Feeling the Heat 2.
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    Jan 18, 2012
    412
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    Loc:
    Canterbury NH
    When I moved mine before I had my neighbor come over with a fork lift I tried to use rollers but all I had was 2x6 to attach to the feet and obviously those aren't any where near strong enough even doubling them up. The pipes would roll to the middle and bend the skids right up in an arch. The boiler is pretty narrow in comparison to it's height, be careful with getting it tipped at all. I like the axle idea but by the end of designing and building this sled how much would it have been to have the rental company just drop off the skidsteer?

    Any particular reason for not pouring the pad now instead of trying to move the boiler again and pour a pad?
     
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  20. Aranyic

    Aranyic
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    Sep 3, 2015
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    I didn't get out to work with it at all today. It was about 1:30 before I got home from church and heat index of 95. Next three days are forecast for 88, 88 and 87 with 75%+ humidity. I figure it's not going anywhere it can wait a few days until the heat subsides a little.
     
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  21. Karl_northwind

    Karl_northwind
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    Feb 13, 2012
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    I use forks on my kubota MX5200 (52 hp 4wd) to move up to G-200's. I couldn't, and then I bought some lighter forks rather than the monsters I had on there, and now I can. it's that close. I have to have the backhoe on to make it heavy enough in the back end, and still won't try it over soft ground.
     
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  22. SpaceBus

    SpaceBus
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    My stump grinder is super long and 1,000 lbs and it helps when I move boulders. What's your hoe weigh?
     
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  23. Karl_northwind

    Karl_northwind
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    Feb 13, 2012
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    according to the book, it weighs about 1700#. the thumb and subframe probably add 200# to that. it's real light in the front with the hoe on.
     
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  24. Aranyic

    Aranyic
    Burning Hunk 2.
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    Sep 3, 2015
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    Well I got it placed. Took a couple hours to get the things hooked up and the axle under it then move it into place. Took it easy everything went pretty well though. It's on the ground; have not taken the entire trailer frame apart yet but the axle is out from under it and it's on blocks.

    Hitched.jpg

    Backing.jpg

    OnGround.jpg
     
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  25. hondaracer2oo4

    hondaracer2oo4
    Feeling the Heat 2.
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    Jan 18, 2012
    412
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    Loc:
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    Nice job with the moving.
     
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