Any suggestions out there? We picked up a beautiful Woodstock Soapstone wood stove. The problem is that the flue height is one inch taller than the lowest opening in the fireplace firebox. We also have to alot for the hearthpad. We have considered cutting out the hard wood floor and dropping it down (Ouch) or cutting into the fireplace itself (ouch, Ouch)! Our house was built by my husbands Grandfather in the 40's and any less invasive suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time!
Height restrictions
- Thread starter pebbleack
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You will need to either find a shorter stove, or lower the floor. If you cut the floor down then you still might have to build it back up with non combustables. What is the hight of firebox from the floor with the alloted thickness for the hearthpad? the most simple solution would be to find a stove that fits.
Some other things to consider, you need a 1/4" of rise per foot going horizontal. I didt read close enough, it sounds like you already have the stove. There is no less invasive measure beyond the two options you listed. You either have to cut the floor or cut the firebox out. I will take a guess and say cutting the floor is the easier option.
You cant cut legs per the listing, unless there listed with a short leg kit. there are hearth r value considerations here. That would be a illeagle install.
MSG you now see what I have to contend with every day. People doing stupid things with out any regard to what has been engineered and tested thus certified Is there any wonder I blow off a few times. And to make matters worse, our members advocate doing this.,
Elk, i hear your fustration, and the last time i freaked out (and i dont freak out often) is when i thought you were calling me a moron. But, that said, i do understand what you have to go through, and our members here, not all are in the hearth industry. I would venture to guess that JA had no idea that it was illeagle to cut legs, but most dealer members know thats a no no. Its almost logical to think that all of the members give advice based on there capacity to do so, the more informed memebers need to correct the less informed ones. I dont think anyone here would give blatent bad advice. I cant say the same thing for the other popular forum. that place scares me.
Ok. I'll ask the question. If the stove does not have an ashpan, what would be wrong with calling Woodstock and asking if you can take the legs off the the thing and sit it in the fireplace?
Inquiring minds want to know.
Inquiring minds want to know.
because woodstock will have to resubmit a stove for testing to get a new rating for the hearthpad.
This subject comes up from time to time. I understand that there is a 1/4 per foot of horizontal RISE, but why? Is it due to possible creosote collection at the low point if it went down?
MountainStoveGuy said:
Just keeping you boys on your toes....not!!
I didn't think an inch or so off the legs would make that much difference (heatwise) and could be compensated with increased hearthpad insulation. Obviously I now know different.
Thanks for the mild correction Elk & MSG.
Warren just like your drainage in plumbing 1/4" per ft is the min more pitch is better. Since heat rises pipes have to be pictched upward to continue it assention, the strongest dafts are found in the top of the connector pipe. pitch is required to facilitate the flow
Level water pipes do not drain well or up hill or level apply the reverse to that in terms of draft. IT is best to keep connector pipes as short as possible and as fer bends as possible Here a fact not mentioned here before It is better if using a 90 or other bend to allow a straight run first fo gain momentum first before entering the elbow If given a choice the 90 should not be at the start of the draft system connected to the flue collar ever foot od ellevation of straight pipe will enhanse draft entering the turn above Code infact addresses that connector length can only have up to 2 90 bends. 2 45 sloped up is better than one sharp 90 elbow especially if the first elbow starts at the flue collar
Level water pipes do not drain well or up hill or level apply the reverse to that in terms of draft. IT is best to keep connector pipes as short as possible and as fer bends as possible Here a fact not mentioned here before It is better if using a 90 or other bend to allow a straight run first fo gain momentum first before entering the elbow If given a choice the 90 should not be at the start of the draft system connected to the flue collar ever foot od ellevation of straight pipe will enhanse draft entering the turn above Code infact addresses that connector length can only have up to 2 90 bends. 2 45 sloped up is better than one sharp 90 elbow especially if the first elbow starts at the flue collar
- Nov 21, 2005
- 827
Hmm... can you have a mason install a thimble into your current chimney? Take a look this way down figure 11 where I'd have a qualified mason do the work of cutting a hole into the flue of the fireplace and that should solve your problems. When not in use or later on, you can cover it with a picture. Masons are pretty cheap, particularly in winter they're usually begging for work indoors. I can't think that type of install will allow a full liner.
FYI that is a vogelzang install manual and if you don't know they're not known for being particularly good or as I recall safe so, not sure it's allowed. Hope others tune in.
FYI that is a vogelzang install manual and if you don't know they're not known for being particularly good or as I recall safe so, not sure it's allowed. Hope others tune in.
Thanks, It looks like we will toss the coin between the floor and the flu. We appreciate all the help. It's a soapstone Franklin Fireview a piece of art, I would never cut the legs. Thanks again.
This might or might not be an option, but MANY years back my father was putting a VC in our summer cottage. I dont know the exact model, but it was one of the larger VC's of it's day, and an early cat stove. The place was built with a cobblestone fireplace surrounding an old steel "Heatilator" fireplace that had rusted out after many years of service. It was necessary to get the stove low enough to partly set it back into the fireplace both to get clearance on the hearth and to make it possible to connect to the SS flex liner that we were running up the chimney.
That model stove had short and long leg kits, but even the short leg kit was still an inch or so too tall. What we ended up doing, AFTER CHECKING WITH THE VC TECH SUPPORT FOLKS! was not using the legs at all, but instead resting the stove on a 1" thick fire brick placed under each corner. The VC folks said this was mechanically OK, and while not acceptable in all installs, would be OK for us given that the original fireplace and hearth was all masonry.
I don't know if that would work with the stove in question, or if it would be acceptable under todays codes, but it might be worth checking out.
Gooserider
That model stove had short and long leg kits, but even the short leg kit was still an inch or so too tall. What we ended up doing, AFTER CHECKING WITH THE VC TECH SUPPORT FOLKS! was not using the legs at all, but instead resting the stove on a 1" thick fire brick placed under each corner. The VC folks said this was mechanically OK, and while not acceptable in all installs, would be OK for us given that the original fireplace and hearth was all masonry.
I don't know if that would work with the stove in question, or if it would be acceptable under todays codes, but it might be worth checking out.
Gooserider
Thank you for your time, and knowledge!! Not quite sure if I want to cut the legs off this beautiful stove!!
I say drop the floor - if there is a basement, that will not be too hard. Now, tell Elk to turn his head for a second.....
If you only had to deal with an inch or two, here's what I would do - you can swivel an adjustable elbo so it becomes a small offset, about 1 1/2 inches on most.
Is that bad because the flue goes "down". The answer is no. Here is why. MANY stoves have a downward air path inside the stove and they work fine. It's all a matter of have a relatively decent chimney sucking at the other end. If your chimney is normal or better, an offset that is headed a few inches down will not hurt anything.
There were even some companies that made little "take off" boxes, which had flue outlets on both sides, one lower then the other - specifically for situations like this.
So that is what I would do in my home if I was given a nice stove like that and my fireplace was too low. In my experience, it always worked fine.
IF your chimney is marginal, this would not work well , but then again, it wouldn't work well even with a regular straight pipe.
If you only had to deal with an inch or two, here's what I would do - you can swivel an adjustable elbo so it becomes a small offset, about 1 1/2 inches on most.
Is that bad because the flue goes "down". The answer is no. Here is why. MANY stoves have a downward air path inside the stove and they work fine. It's all a matter of have a relatively decent chimney sucking at the other end. If your chimney is normal or better, an offset that is headed a few inches down will not hurt anything.
There were even some companies that made little "take off" boxes, which had flue outlets on both sides, one lower then the other - specifically for situations like this.
So that is what I would do in my home if I was given a nice stove like that and my fireplace was too low. In my experience, it always worked fine.
IF your chimney is marginal, this would not work well , but then again, it wouldn't work well even with a regular straight pipe.
Thats a good idea, I think it will work because we are going to put a liner in the chimney!! Thanks for the great tip!!
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