I've been reading through all the sticky's about draft issues etc etc. I am new at wood stoves. We purchased our house with a wood stove in the basement. Its a single story rambler with a basement. We have double wall SS pipe outside, and double wall black pipe inside. The stove is a Jotul F600. We can fire it and control it through the lever in the front. We noticed drafting issues. Starting was worst mostly because its a cold stove and no heat is going up the chimney. However, once it is heated and running pretty well I still notice a little roll out when I open the doors to put in more logs. I do open the air and crack the door to let the air go into the firebox before I completely open the door. So I started reading and doing things to help the issue. First was installing a fresh air kit. This did help a little, but I still have issues. I also noticed that my horizontal run seems kind of long probably a little better than 3' before the 90 elbow down to the the stove. I put a level on it and it does have a slight rake downward towards the stove. The outside pipe is probably around 20+ feet tall. I ll have to measure it all out for you guys. Please let me know what you think.
Hello all New wood stove owner here and had a few questions.
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When was the last time the venting system cleaned, right from the stove to the chimney cap...especially the horizontal, tee area and cap? also what species of wood are you burning and how long has it been cut and split?
The pipes were very clean. The inside pipes were all new. The first batch of wood was seasoned very well grey ends. Mostly red oak white oak.
Does the chimney cap have a screen? Did this get inspected closely?
Could be the combo of the 2 - 90deg turns in the smoke path + basement install are working against draft. The 2 90s are effectively reducing the chimney height by about 5 ft. This could be made worse by mild weather. What are your outside temps?
Have you tried to open a nearby window a little bit to see if that improves operation a bit?
Could be the combo of the 2 - 90deg turns in the smoke path + basement install are working against draft. The 2 90s are effectively reducing the chimney height by about 5 ft. This could be made worse by mild weather. What are your outside temps?
Have you tried to open a nearby window a little bit to see if that improves operation a bit?
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Nick Mystic
Minister of Fire
If there is an outside air kit installed, as indicated in the OP, would opening a nearby window have any effect?
Doh, yer right.
And I checked temps in Baltimore, 37F so this is not from 50F outdoor temps either. If the chimney cap screen is either not present or clean then it may take increasing chimney height to improve draft. I would test this on a calm day with a 4ft length of 6" duct pipe pushed crimp end down into the existing chimney. If there is a notable improvement, then consider adding more chimney pipe. Replacing the connector pipe 90 with a pair of 45 elbows with an offset to soften the turn will also help.
And I checked temps in Baltimore, 37F so this is not from 50F outdoor temps either. If the chimney cap screen is either not present or clean then it may take increasing chimney height to improve draft. I would test this on a calm day with a 4ft length of 6" duct pipe pushed crimp end down into the existing chimney. If there is a notable improvement, then consider adding more chimney pipe. Replacing the connector pipe 90 with a pair of 45 elbows with an offset to soften the turn will also help.
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I have another section of pipe I could add to the top that the PO left. I don't have a screen at all. I have a metal band around the middle of the opening.
Would the 3 ft plus horizontal have any adverse affects also?
1. Extend chimney
2. 2 45s
3 I could shorten the horizontal by a foot. Looks like PO remade the base plate out a little further to clear a narrow roof overhang. Could notch the overhang and tighten it up to the house like it should be.
Would the 3 ft plus horizontal have any adverse affects also?
1. Extend chimney
2. 2 45s
3 I could shorten the horizontal by a foot. Looks like PO remade the base plate out a little further to clear a narrow roof overhang. Could notch the overhang and tighten it up to the house like it should be.
Are you having any trouble actually burning with the present flue set up, or simply having trouble with smoke coming out the door when you add logs?
If the latter, when are you reloading? There really should not be very much smoke at all present to come out the door by the time you reload, if you burn in full cycles, logs to coals.
Lots of people have an issue with smoke exiting the door on a cold chimney. Just use a hair dryer to heat the flue from inside the stove for a moment, before loading. If you hold a flame to the region of the exit to flue, you will see if you have established draft. Can also roll up and light a piece of newspaper, use a heat gun, or any other method of just getting a bit of heat into the chimney to establish draft.
You may not need to add to your chimney. It looks to be a pretty good height. what is it, 20 feet on the outside? Take off 5 feet for the bends, still 15 feet plus any rise inside off the stove. That should be plenty.
If the latter, when are you reloading? There really should not be very much smoke at all present to come out the door by the time you reload, if you burn in full cycles, logs to coals.
Lots of people have an issue with smoke exiting the door on a cold chimney. Just use a hair dryer to heat the flue from inside the stove for a moment, before loading. If you hold a flame to the region of the exit to flue, you will see if you have established draft. Can also roll up and light a piece of newspaper, use a heat gun, or any other method of just getting a bit of heat into the chimney to establish draft.
You may not need to add to your chimney. It looks to be a pretty good height. what is it, 20 feet on the outside? Take off 5 feet for the bends, still 15 feet plus any rise inside off the stove. That should be plenty.
This may just be a stupid question, but since I don't know for sure what I am seeing, or what the answer is: Is that insulation stuffed around the chimney pipe where it exits the home, and if it is shouldn't it be protected from the elements?
Yes that is insulation. The house was a foreclosure and this stove was mostly in. I think they were going to take it. It's a block wall and the insulation is just to help keep the draft out of the home at the moment. We want to properly seal it. However. The horizontal run was a concern of mine and I didn't want to fix it twice.
If I put in news paper and start a fire and close the doors it will smoke like a freight train. It shows you every single little air gap in the stove and indoor pipe.
Once we get it rolling. It's pretty good. It takes some time but we get our corners up to about 400. The stove says it should operate between 4-6. We rarely see 400. I guess I also need to read up on proper burn cycles as well and burn from log to coal. Then load.
If I put in news paper and start a fire and close the doors it will smoke like a freight train. It shows you every single little air gap in the stove and indoor pipe.
Once we get it rolling. It's pretty good. It takes some time but we get our corners up to about 400. The stove says it should operate between 4-6. We rarely see 400. I guess I also need to read up on proper burn cycles as well and burn from log to coal. Then load.
We also have a snap in screen for the front it looks nice and you can hear the snaps and pops. But it trickles out smoke
With weak draft the stove is going to have a hard time getting to max temp. With strong draft and dry wood it will go up to 600F quickly.
Hmm. I need to work on those 45's then. Dont think I will have time to pull the chimney in 10" this winter.
Wilbursan
Member
I wondered about that statement, Wilbursan. Don't think you should be seeing any air gaps in the stove or pipe. He may have big issues to deal with.
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