Help choosing proper stove pipe for new Drolet HT3000, previous install may have been done incorrectly?

Steve056

New Member
May 21, 2020
3
Hubbard Lake, MI.
I am currently in the process of installing a new wood burning stove in place of a Franklin fireplace at my fathers hunting cabin.
We have been using that Franklin since 1994 and the thing sucked big time, all it did was stink up our clothes and burned wood too fast.
He pulled the trigger on a wood burning stove and we picked out the Drolet based on the reviews for the HT2000/HT3000 models.
Anyway, I am not sure if the previous install was done "to code" or anything, this is at a cabin in the middle of the woods with no electricity, etc.
The original venting went out the wall on a 90* but was changed to vent straight up through the second floor and out the roof.
My father installed some sort of 11" aluminum heat shield? maybe style pipe a few feet under where the pipe goes through the second floor, all the way to the top of the roof, approx 20ft.
Inside the 11" pipe was all single wall 8" stove pipe in 4 foot sections running inside.
I am attaching photos of what I have showing the odd 11" outer pipe, the chimney on the roof & the old stove.

Can i get away with just installing new 8" double wall pipe all the way to the top? Is the outer section Class A/done properly back in '94?

Thanks for any help/advice.
 

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begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
82,964
South Puget Sound, WA
Looks like a jerry-rigged air cooled system, definitely not class A. The best thing to do would be to tear it all out and do the chimney system new with 6" class A chimney down to a ceiling support and then stove pipe connecting the stove.
 
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Steve056

New Member
May 21, 2020
3
Hubbard Lake, MI.
Looks like a jerry-rigged air cooled system, definitely not class A. The best thing to do would be to tear it all out and do the chimney system new with 6" class A chimney down to a ceiling support and then stove pipe connecting the stove.
What if I ran class A inside of the existing pipe instead of tearing all that outer pipe out, could that work?
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
82,964
South Puget Sound, WA
The old flashing is going to rust out sooner. To use it would be a hack job that would lose the centering support of proper flashing. It could also be harder for the storm collar to protect from rain intrusion and would leak air. Tearing out the old is a short job. This would be a good time to ponder if this is the best location for the new stove too.
 
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Steve056

New Member
May 21, 2020
3
Hubbard Lake, MI.
The old flashing is going to rust out sooner. To use it would be a hack job that would lose the centering support of proper flashing. It could also be harder for the storm collar to protect from rain intrusion and would leak air. Tearing out the old is a short job. This would be a good time to ponder if this is the best location for the new stove too.
I am not sure about the flashing rusting out, as its already been installed 25 years and its not rusting at all.
Anyway, I took your advice and ripped all the old outer piping out. It was labeled as class B and installed upside down.... The new stove is in on a dolly so we can figure out what we are going to do as far as a new floor pad, as far as where it can go it has to go in the same spot.

So far I have ordered a DuraVent 6" single wall telescoping pipe that will mount directly to the new DuraVent ceiling support.
From there onward I will be running DuraVent galvanized 36" chimney sections of pipe until it approaches the roof (with a brace in the attic) and I will then switch to stainless sections as it comes out. This thing was a real PITA to get inside with just me and my old man moving it!

Thanks for the tips.
 

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