I have a 1 1/4" weighted Taco check valve, that clatters. It is installed between the supply and return manifolds. There is an elbow about 4 inches before it. I have my system plumbed to Tarms specs with a Termovar valve on the return line to keep the return temps lower and allowing the storage tank to charge. Is is just a bad check valve, or is the elbow creating turbulence? Any ideas?
Help, Clattering check valve
- Thread starter kevindauch
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
I have had brand new check valves clatters on water system, does not effect their performance other than being annoying. My swing check on my system clatters, I call it the wife, some reason the "ole" lady does not find that funny
603doug said:
My wife calls my boiler my girlfriend because I enjoy standing there watching the temp gauges move up and down. Maybe I should install swing check valve so then in theory, my wife would be in the room with us and wouldn't get so irritated when I'm out there "tending the fire".
I have a check valve on my solar loop the clatters after filling/refilling. It's definitely air bubbles passing by. The air scoop eventually gets it all, but it takes 3-4 hours, even after bleeding etc.
I believe that air may be stuck in the manifold. I'm unable to purge it out though. I believe that the Termovar valve is hindering me from doing so. Right now I have the check valve open, actually it's been open since I installed the system last fall. I didn't close it after purging the system, forgot. I just noticed it and closed the valve, then the clattering. I haven't had any other check valves in the system complaining though. This spring I'll have another go at it. Maybe put a vent elbow before it.
I just looked in my Modern Hydronic Heating book. It suggests that you should have 12 pipe diameters of straight pipe ahead of a check valve. That elbow could very well be the problem.
Thanks, I can move the location of the check valve, before the elbow. It will be at the end of the manifold, I should have 14 + inches before the check valve. If not, I'll add some pipe.
- Status
Similar threads
