My first Outdoor Hydronic Furnace build....OHF
- Thread starter all night moe
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
I got the tank home. It does measure 24'' dia but, the height he gave me was from the floor of his shop to the top of the mounting bracket for the pump and motor. I measured from the end caps, weld to weld, at 42''L.....if I'm recalling correctly. It was raining and I didn't write it down. I'll most likely leave one end cap on, and use a plate for the door end. I think that was around 46-48''.
I'll check with my friend in the spring for a piece of pipe and what he's gotta get for it. If I don't use the tank, I'll flip it and make a couple bucks on it, In the meantime I'll keep an eye for a suitable pump and motor in the spring as well. Make a decent profit for a working unit.
I do have a couple ideas incorporating the tank with the end cap if I choose that route.
I'll check with my friend in the spring for a piece of pipe and what he's gotta get for it. If I don't use the tank, I'll flip it and make a couple bucks on it, In the meantime I'll keep an eye for a suitable pump and motor in the spring as well. Make a decent profit for a working unit.
I do have a couple ideas incorporating the tank with the end cap if I choose that route.
If you use the dome for the door you can fill it with heat resistant refractory. Weld a few studs to it and bolt a heat shield to the studs to protect it all. The dome will resist warping better than a plate
I thought about this as I've read about what you explain. I agree it would be a good avenue. My issue is I'm wanting a flat face plate for mounting secondary air feed to the interior of the face plate, on the sides of the door.
I'm contemplating a second option to use the compressor tank. Since I need to remove one dome, for the secondary air supply, it will be too short. I need an interior length of 32'' for wood. Standard 16 plus 16'' splits of firewood. With interior air feed in the front, and firebrick in the rear, I'm left with no wiggle room. I have a 15 HP small engine and a friend has a twin cylinder pump. Since my garage is challenged for power, with this running near the door, I can have air and run my MIG. Without choosing between the two. I'll sell the other compressor I have sitting.
Although, I could leave the air tank sticking out of the oil tank a couple inches. Enter the secondary air in through the sides, and use the dome door, allowing more interior length. Leaning towards the pipe for sure. Flat is a little easier to work with.
How hard is it to work with refractory cement? I've read it can be difficult?
I haven't worked with it much yet
i was planning to build my own nozzles for my boiler and got a bag of it plus stainless steel needles for added strength
There was a user on here that had built molds to redo all the cast parts of his boiler. I will bet he would know.
i was planning to build my own nozzles for my boiler and got a bag of it plus stainless steel needles for added strength
There was a user on here that had built molds to redo all the cast parts of his boiler. I will bet he would know.
RIngs a bell. I've done a metric ton of reading here over the last 5 yrs.....especially during burning season. Lots of research to get me to the confidence of building a unit.
Was out plowing snow today. Just a 2.5hr nuisance storm. Always gives me time to think though. I'm still leaning pretty heavily on getting a 24 x 48'' pipe. I'll make a stout door from 3/8 or 1 1/4'' steel with some reinforcement ribs inside to help resist warping. May still extend it out a couple inches. Keep the secondary supply tubes outside of the envelope.
No it wasn't Hobbyheater
It was a different boiler that he has run of is running.
He had made some very professional molds as that was part of his profession i think. He was selling the boiler with the molds.
It was a different boiler that he has run of is running.
He had made some very professional molds as that was part of his profession i think. He was selling the boiler with the molds.
Ah...yes...that rings a bell, but I'm not sure I can recall the name.
I think it was for an indoor boiler. The kind requiring external storage and batch burning.
Dang can almost recall.....
Anyway, I'm coming to an understanding that the secodaries will light off better with a closed damper. So possibly an auto damper via solenoid when the call for heat is met and water is up to temp.
If I get all of this to function, it'll be most interesting.
Even if I have to relocate, I'm bringing my parts with me.
If I get all of this to function, it'll be most interesting.
Even if I have to relocate, I'm bringing my parts with me.
This is going to be great, I’ll be following along. Document it with some pics if possible!
Planning on pics. Will have to have someone smarter than I link my phone...LOL
On another note, the auto damper would cancel the use of an Ink Bird temp controller. It measures flue temp to keep it so natural draft will take over when the forced induction is not needed. It keeps the differential more consistent so the fan is used less and the water temp will stay at its higher setting longer....and burn less wood. The "Boiler Commander" does the same thing. It's just a complete packaged system.
This kinda squashes the secondary tubes. I may eliminate them altogether or go for it and hope for the best. Either way, I'll still do the baffled flue and bypass I described earlier.
This kinda squashes the secondary tubes. I may eliminate them altogether or go for it and hope for the best. Either way, I'll still do the baffled flue and bypass I described earlier.
Hi all, I am sorry to jump in to this thread and hope I am not imposing but I am looking into building a new boiler and there are not a ton of people that have any interest in a project like that. I have a 20ish year old TimberWolf that is on its last leg and with this bitter cold I can hear it from my house yelling FEED ME
plus I am getting to old to cut that much wood every year.
I am looking at building a gasser style stove as well with a dual fuel system, O2 exhaust with PWM style fans. I am also using a diesel fired heater for a backup.
Is there anyone that might have a layout/prints to a boiler that would help with orifice sizes and piping etc? I think I can build a much more efficient boiler cheaper than just purchasing something and probably do it out of SS.
I saw a post here that suggested not having the water and firebox connected and I was wondering how big of a problem that is?
plus I am getting to old to cut that much wood every year. I am looking at building a gasser style stove as well with a dual fuel system, O2 exhaust with PWM style fans. I am also using a diesel fired heater for a backup.
Is there anyone that might have a layout/prints to a boiler that would help with orifice sizes and piping etc? I think I can build a much more efficient boiler cheaper than just purchasing something and probably do it out of SS.
I saw a post here that suggested not having the water and firebox connected and I was wondering how big of a problem that is?
You ought to start your own thread in this forum.Hi all, I am sorry to jump in to this thread and hope I am not imposing but I am looking into building a new boiler and there are not a ton of people that have any interest in a project like that. I have a 20ish year old TimberWolf that is on its last leg and with this bitter cold I can hear it from my house yelling FEED ME
I am looking at building a gasser style stove as well with a dual fuel system, O2 exhaust with PWM style fans. I am also using a diesel fired heater for a backup.
Is there anyone that might have a layout/prints to a boiler that would help with orifice sizes and piping etc? I think I can build a much more efficient boiler cheaper than just purchasing something and probably do it out of SS.
I saw a post here that suggested not having the water and firebox connected and I was wondering how big of a problem that is?
jblnut
Burning Hunk
I just spoke with Joe (Boiler Commander builder) and he's gonna swing over and stick one on my Crown Royal 7400MP next week. He's 20min away from me and I was quite excited it was him building it. I've worked with him in the past on LARGE ventilation projects on dairy farms and he's the real deal. I can certainly share how it works out once it's installed. It will replace the digital aquastat in my stove now and should greatly reduce the amount of heat leaving though the exhaust pipe. I have the charge fan set rather high to get it to ignite the coal/wood mix I burn so it doesn't get to thick inside and "blow up" when the smoke all ignites. That makes it burn way hotter than it needs to be during the rest of the cycle and it often overshoots the target temp by 3-5F which again is a waste.
Anyway ... I like threads like these where things are built instead of purchased. I'm not sure where you are physically but I have a 500gal propane tank you could have for Free99 if you're local and it'd fit your needs. I used it as an air storage tank for a while and have moved to a much larger air compressor so I do not need it any longer. Nothing wrong with it other than it didn't pass for propane anymore.
Good luck with the build and I'll definitely be following along !!
Please feel free to share your findings here. I'm intrigued for the results in how this performs for you. If you end up starting your own thread, at least pop in and sticky a link.
Thanks for the offer on the 500gal LP tank. I'm in the NE. That would be quite the haul LOL. Besides, if I did use it, I'd be using it as a water vessel and look for an even bigger burn chamber. Little to big for my plans. The smaller scale unit I'm working on now will wind up heating the rental house and the slab of my shop. That's when I replace it with a gasser for the main house. The rental house fixed up a little more, and with heat included, will be a good monthly income. I really appreciate the offer on the tank. May make a good project for someone or water storage for batch burning.
I've been intrigued with gasification for the past 12yrs. I've been paying attention to all the info I've happened across. The past 5yrs, I've been studying it in depth. You wont find blueprints or much detailed information on them. They're a trade secret for the manufacturer's who have invested into them. The EPA certification alone is a big expense. This has put many smaller companies building conventional boilers out of business.Hi all, I am sorry to jump in to this thread and hope I am not imposing but I am looking into building a new boiler and there are not a ton of people that have any interest in a project like that. I have a 20ish year old TimberWolf that is on its last leg and with this bitter cold I can hear it from my house yelling FEED ME
I am looking at building a gasser style stove as well with a dual fuel system, O2 exhaust with PWM style fans. I am also using a diesel fired heater for a backup.
Is there anyone that might have a layout/prints to a boiler that would help with orifice sizes and piping etc? I think I can build a much more efficient boiler cheaper than just purchasing something and probably do it out of SS.
I saw a post here that suggested not having the water and firebox connected and I was wondering how big of a problem that is?
Those with home built units have made theirs by trial and error. Many have tweaked their units to satisfaction. I've collected all my knowledge studying manufactured units, watching as many vids I could find, reading on this site, and drawing my ideas on graph paper. I picked my burn chamber and worked around that. It's a 420lb, 120gal LP tank. It's sitting in my yard. I found one on my friend's farm who gave it to me. I looked for 4-5yrs. I've drawn my design on graph at least 4 times. Noting changes on each draft from all my research. They're a much more involved build than conventional boilers. Tis why I'm building the smaller unit first. Allows me to get up and running and fund more into converting the house to hydronics one step at a time.
I'll be watching for a thread, if you start one.
After spending a bit of time on my cardboard CAD, I'm now leaning for eliminating the secondary tubes. A 18'' tall door with a 16'' width cramps up space for secondary air feed tubes. I really don't want to go any smaller with the door. If I did the tubes I'd also need a view port for tuning the air intakes. I think the KISS principle will prevail here. I do like the though of the secondaries, if the light off was more of a guarantee than a gamble.
Perhaps @jblnut will share his findings with the boiler commander. I believe it too, is supposed to help eliminate idle smoke.
My main goal here is for a low cost build while striving for efficiency.
Perhaps @jblnut will share his findings with the boiler commander. I believe it too, is supposed to help eliminate idle smoke.
My main goal here is for a low cost build while striving for efficiency.
I doubt that...my understanding is that it just improves efficiency by not blowing so many BTUs out the stack
This I agree with. More BTUs kept in the boiler is heat energy transferred into the water. I was hoping to lessen the idling time smoke as well.
Reading through @begreen thread, "Secondary light show. Sometimes it all comes together." has me understanding tubes in this boiler may be a wasted effort, for my intents. If they would light semi regularly, I would pursue. If burning mostly hardwoods, like @stoveliker mentioned would help with ignition often, an auto flue damper would be more in the plans. I don't need to worry about smoke annoying any neighbors. I'm very rural. I just like to use that energy, aka wood gas, also.
The boiler commander would most likely better suit me and keep complications out of the build.
BTW, it is said it can benefit any outdoor unit. Conventional or gasser.
@all night moe I talked with Joe some about putting one on my polar, The conclusion was come to that with his current setup it really wouldn't be much benefit versus the cost, he is last we talked working on a setup to try on a polar, I'm not sure where he is at on it though, we haven't talked in a few months.
I dunno what this Boiler Commander does exactly, but if it just monitors and controls the stack temp, that can be done easily with an Auber PID temp controller and a thermocouple...maybe $60-80 worth of parts
Universal 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller [SYL-2362] - $41.25 : Auber Instruments, Inc., Temperature control solutions for home and industry
Auber Instruments, Inc. Universal 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller [SYL-2362] - This temperature controller offers great value for its price as it is accurate, smart, reliable and equipped with more features than most controllers on the market (not just the similarly priced units). It is the...
www.auberins.com
