My first Outdoor Hydronic Furnace build....OHF
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I got the tank home. It does measure 24'' dia but, the height he gave me was from the floor of his shop to the top of the mounting bracket for the pump and motor. I measured from the end caps, weld to weld, at 42''L.....if I'm recalling correctly. It was raining and I didn't write it down. I'll most likely leave one end cap on, and use a plate for the door end. I think that was around 46-48''.
I'll check with my friend in the spring for a piece of pipe and what he's gotta get for it. If I don't use the tank, I'll flip it and make a couple bucks on it, In the meantime I'll keep an eye for a suitable pump and motor in the spring as well. Make a decent profit for a working unit.
I do have a couple ideas incorporating the tank with the end cap if I choose that route.
I'll check with my friend in the spring for a piece of pipe and what he's gotta get for it. If I don't use the tank, I'll flip it and make a couple bucks on it, In the meantime I'll keep an eye for a suitable pump and motor in the spring as well. Make a decent profit for a working unit.
I do have a couple ideas incorporating the tank with the end cap if I choose that route.
If you use the dome for the door you can fill it with heat resistant refractory. Weld a few studs to it and bolt a heat shield to the studs to protect it all. The dome will resist warping better than a plate
I thought about this as I've read about what you explain. I agree it would be a good avenue. My issue is I'm wanting a flat face plate for mounting secondary air feed to the interior of the face plate, on the sides of the door.
I'm contemplating a second option to use the compressor tank. Since I need to remove one dome, for the secondary air supply, it will be too short. I need an interior length of 32'' for wood. Standard 16 plus 16'' splits of firewood. With interior air feed in the front, and firebrick in the rear, I'm left with no wiggle room. I have a 15 HP small engine and a friend has a twin cylinder pump. Since my garage is challenged for power, with this running near the door, I can have air and run my MIG. Without choosing between the two. I'll sell the other compressor I have sitting.
Although, I could leave the air tank sticking out of the oil tank a couple inches. Enter the secondary air in through the sides, and use the dome door, allowing more interior length. Leaning towards the pipe for sure. Flat is a little easier to work with.
How hard is it to work with refractory cement? I've read it can be difficult?
I haven't worked with it much yet
i was planning to build my own nozzles for my boiler and got a bag of it plus stainless steel needles for added strength
There was a user on here that had built molds to redo all the cast parts of his boiler. I will bet he would know.
i was planning to build my own nozzles for my boiler and got a bag of it plus stainless steel needles for added strength
There was a user on here that had built molds to redo all the cast parts of his boiler. I will bet he would know.
RIngs a bell. I've done a metric ton of reading here over the last 5 yrs.....especially during burning season. Lots of research to get me to the confidence of building a unit.
Was out plowing snow today. Just a 2.5hr nuisance storm. Always gives me time to think though. I'm still leaning pretty heavily on getting a 24 x 48'' pipe. I'll make a stout door from 3/8 or 1 1/4'' steel with some reinforcement ribs inside to help resist warping. May still extend it out a couple inches. Keep the secondary supply tubes outside of the envelope.
No it wasn't Hobbyheater
It was a different boiler that he has run of is running.
He had made some very professional molds as that was part of his profession i think. He was selling the boiler with the molds.
It was a different boiler that he has run of is running.
He had made some very professional molds as that was part of his profession i think. He was selling the boiler with the molds.
Ah...yes...that rings a bell, but I'm not sure I can recall the name.
I think it was for an indoor boiler. The kind requiring external storage and batch burning.
Dang can almost recall.....
Anyway, I'm coming to an understanding that the secodaries will light off better with a closed damper. So possibly an auto damper via solenoid when the call for heat is met and water is up to temp.
If I get all of this to function, it'll be most interesting.
Even if I have to relocate, I'm bringing my parts with me.
If I get all of this to function, it'll be most interesting.
Even if I have to relocate, I'm bringing my parts with me.
This is going to be great, I’ll be following along. Document it with some pics if possible!
Planning on pics. Will have to have someone smarter than I link my phone...LOL
On another note, the auto damper would cancel the use of an Ink Bird temp controller. It measures flue temp to keep it so natural draft will take over when the forced induction is not needed. It keeps the differential more consistent so the fan is used less and the water temp will stay at its higher setting longer....and burn less wood. The "Boiler Commander" does the same thing. It's just a complete packaged system.
This kinda squashes the secondary tubes. I may eliminate them altogether or go for it and hope for the best. Either way, I'll still do the baffled flue and bypass I described earlier.
This kinda squashes the secondary tubes. I may eliminate them altogether or go for it and hope for the best. Either way, I'll still do the baffled flue and bypass I described earlier.
Hi all, I am sorry to jump in to this thread and hope I am not imposing but I am looking into building a new boiler and there are not a ton of people that have any interest in a project like that. I have a 20ish year old TimberWolf that is on its last leg and with this bitter cold I can hear it from my house yelling FEED ME
plus I am getting to old to cut that much wood every year.
I am looking at building a gasser style stove as well with a dual fuel system, O2 exhaust with PWM style fans. I am also using a diesel fired heater for a backup.
Is there anyone that might have a layout/prints to a boiler that would help with orifice sizes and piping etc? I think I can build a much more efficient boiler cheaper than just purchasing something and probably do it out of SS.
I saw a post here that suggested not having the water and firebox connected and I was wondering how big of a problem that is?
plus I am getting to old to cut that much wood every year. I am looking at building a gasser style stove as well with a dual fuel system, O2 exhaust with PWM style fans. I am also using a diesel fired heater for a backup.
Is there anyone that might have a layout/prints to a boiler that would help with orifice sizes and piping etc? I think I can build a much more efficient boiler cheaper than just purchasing something and probably do it out of SS.
I saw a post here that suggested not having the water and firebox connected and I was wondering how big of a problem that is?
You ought to start your own thread in this forum.Hi all, I am sorry to jump in to this thread and hope I am not imposing but I am looking into building a new boiler and there are not a ton of people that have any interest in a project like that. I have a 20ish year old TimberWolf that is on its last leg and with this bitter cold I can hear it from my house yelling FEED ME
I am looking at building a gasser style stove as well with a dual fuel system, O2 exhaust with PWM style fans. I am also using a diesel fired heater for a backup.
Is there anyone that might have a layout/prints to a boiler that would help with orifice sizes and piping etc? I think I can build a much more efficient boiler cheaper than just purchasing something and probably do it out of SS.
I saw a post here that suggested not having the water and firebox connected and I was wondering how big of a problem that is?
I just spoke with Joe (Boiler Commander builder) and he's gonna swing over and stick one on my Crown Royal 7400MP next week. He's 20min away from me and I was quite excited it was him building it. I've worked with him in the past on LARGE ventilation projects on dairy farms and he's the real deal. I can certainly share how it works out once it's installed. It will replace the digital aquastat in my stove now and should greatly reduce the amount of heat leaving though the exhaust pipe. I have the charge fan set rather high to get it to ignite the coal/wood mix I burn so it doesn't get to thick inside and "blow up" when the smoke all ignites. That makes it burn way hotter than it needs to be during the rest of the cycle and it often overshoots the target temp by 3-5F which again is a waste.
Anyway ... I like threads like these where things are built instead of purchased. I'm not sure where you are physically but I have a 500gal propane tank you could have for Free99 if you're local and it'd fit your needs. I used it as an air storage tank for a while and have moved to a much larger air compressor so I do not need it any longer. Nothing wrong with it other than it didn't pass for propane anymore.
Good luck with the build and I'll definitely be following along !!
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