Help. Harman p43 fuse

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Fireside

Member
Jan 22, 2016
37
Durham
Hello,

I have done some searches but cannot find any information. My pellet stove has no power - already checked the outlet, and it works. I need to check the fuse on the stove. Can someone help me to find where the fuse can be accessed. Do I access it from the control panel on the side, or in the back of the stove. I hope this is only a fuse issue.

Thanks in advance.
 
Fuse will be on your control board. I would see if you could access it from the back
 
Ok ... so I managed to find the fuse and pulled it out. the top of it is black, so it is definitely blown. My worry is .... what made it blow? I am wondering if he had to do with my husband working on the hot water heater. The hot water heater sprung a leak. initially he turned off all the electricity, but later when he was not working on the water heater he turned back on the breaker to the pellet stove, the wires to the water heater were not reconnected. I am wondering if the disconnected water heater caused some sort of short? He says the breaker was off, but it could cause a short ...couldn't it? My husband says he noticed a noise from the breaker box when he turned on pellet stove. (Why he did not just turn it off is beyond me, he left it running for the night (rolls eyes). I wonder if these are related or if it is pure coincidence. Anyway, the water heater is connected and no noise from the breaker box, I need to get a new fuse and try it. I am just worried it will blow again. I hope the control panel is not blown out as well.

Any input appreciated.
 
Use a magnifying glass and get the exact type fuse, id get 4 or 5 never hurts to many lol. Unless hot water heater is on the same circuit (should be on its own) there shouldn’t be a connection between the two.
 
Ok ... so I managed to find the fuse and pulled it out. the top of it is black, so it is definitely blown. My worry is .... what made it blow? I am wondering if he had to do with my husband working on the hot water heater. The hot water heater sprung a leak. initially he turned off all the electricity, but later when he was not working on the water heater he turned back on the breaker to the pellet stove, the wires to the water heater were not reconnected. I am wondering if the disconnected water heater caused some sort of short? He says the breaker was off, but it could cause a short ...couldn't it? My husband says he noticed a noise from the breaker box when he turned on pellet stove. (Why he did not just turn it off is beyond me, he left it running for the night (rolls eyes). I wonder if these are related or if it is pure coincidence. Anyway, the water heater is connected and no noise from the breaker box, I need to get a new fuse and try it. I am just worried it will blow again. I hope the control panel is not blown out as well.

Any input appreciated.
fuse should be a 6amp which usually is not available at box or hardware stores..
electrical supply stores have them..that said,
lot of stove owners get a 5amp instead so that if any jolt to the stove happens,
it will blow the fuse sooner so it does not affect the circuit board..
i had ordered 6 amp fuses when mine blew but ran the stove with 5amp fuses until they came in..
will be fine with lower fuse amp..
 
Do you have a surge protector on your stove? If not, spend a few bucks and get one. An electric water heater (240v) and your pellet stove (120v) should not be on the same breaker. If they are....find an electrician and get it straightened out. One should not have any effect on the other.
 
Do you have a surge protector on your stove? If not, spend a few bucks and get one. An electric water heater (240v) and your pellet stove (120v) should not be on the same breaker. If they are....find an electrician and get it straightened out. One should not have any effect on the other.
yep.. good advise....
 
You blew the stove fuse,when power was returned,and your water heater has a problem.Can they be related?Yes.He heard a noise from breaker box,you probably have a poor connection,inside,especially if your incoming wires are aluminum.Need to check all wires coming into the fuse/supply panel.Is best if all power is shut off,before the fuse panel.
 
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fuse should be a 6amp which usually is not available at box or hardware stores..
electrical supply stores have them..that said,
lot of stove owners get a 5amp instead so that if any jolt to the stove happens,
it will blow the fuse sooner so it does not affect the circuit board..
i had ordered 6 amp fuses when mine blew but ran the stove with 5amp fuses until they came in..
will be fine with lower fuse amp..

Thank you all for your help. I find everyone is so helpful here. Ok .......... so we had an electrician come in and it ended up being a loose wire to the breaker box causing the noise ....... So the electrical issue is fixed. Thanks for your input.

NOW on to our next problem ........ the pellet stove.

My husband could not find 6amp fuses as you said. So he bought the 5 amp. Put it in the stove plugged it in and it immediately blows. Change the fuse, turn power off on control panel, plug in - fuse BLOWS. Makes no sense to me, the dial is switched to off and it blows?

I have done some reading and searches and need to rule out the ignitor next. I have read that you can disconnect the ignitor and put the fuse in, if the fuse does not blow then the problem is with the ignitor. I have looked up ways of changing the ignitor. I am just wondering if I disconnect the ignitor like I am changing it .... is that the same way to disconnect it to test if the fuse blows? Am I ok to leave those wires loose, put a fuse in and turn it in to see what happens?

In the meantime, I am ordering the correct fuses. Need to rule out one issue at a time.
 
yes you can unplug the igniter from the board and test. I would unplug all components and plug each back in one at a time. Take note this in line voltage and it will bite!
 
I work on Harmans a lot.
I have seen a shorted Harman Igniter blow the board fuse or a shorted Distribution Blower blow the board fuse. Try disconnecting them and see what happens.
 
yes you can unplug the igniter from the board and test. I would unplug all components and plug each back in one at a time. Take note this in line voltage and it will bite!

You mean only disconnect and reconnect when stove is unplugged?

When you say unplug it from the board, you mean just disconnect as if I was disassembling, from the burn pot area .... not disconnecting any wires directly from the control board? I can find where the light blue wire could be disconnected from the back of the stove but not the yellow wire. I think I need to do this from the front.
 
DISCONNECT THE IGNitor from the front..
make sure the 2 lead wires are HANGING DOWN outside the ignitor compartment and NOT touching any metal or part of the burn pot. if they don't reach all the way out, just electrical tape each end real good.
i say it's the ignitor and the fuse won't blow this time.

[ i had an ignitor that one of the leads insulation was shredded and bare wire was touching inside burnpot wall..caused the fuse to blow...had to replace with new ignitor..
it was a cheaper priced asian knockoff.. never again. should have known for 30.00 price.
reputable dealers sell for around 70.00.... same as Amazons price..
 
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yes do all your disconnect and connect while unplugged.
 
DISCONNECT THE IGNitor from the front..
make sure the 2 lead wires are HANGING DOWN outside the ignitor compartment and NOT touching any metal or part of the burn pot. if they don't reach all the way out, just electrical tape each end real good.
i say it's the ignitor and the fuse won't blow this time.

[ i had an ignitor that one of the leads insulation was shredded and bare wire was touching inside burnpot wall..caused the fuse to blow...had to replace with new ignitor..
it was a cheaper priced asian knockoff.. never again. should have known for 30.00 price.
reputable dealers sell for around 70.00.... same as Amazons price..

Ok - finally -found the tools to get this done. Hung the wires outside the box, did not tape them, but they were not touching metal or anything, new fuse in and fuse blew immediately ... I was so hoping this would be the ignitor. Again these are 5 amp fuses. That was my last one.

I could disconnect the distribution blower and test that when I get more fuses, but I will have to figure out which wire. After that ..... I don't know if I should have a local repair shop look at it or just try replacing the control panel myself?

I have no idea what the local shop charges for diagnostics.
 
Ok - finally -found the tools to get this done. Hung the wires outside the box, did not tape them, but they were not touching metal or anything, new fuse in and fuse blew immediately ... I was so hoping this would be the ignitor. Again these are 5 amp fuses. That was my last one.

I could disconnect the distribution blower and test that when I get more fuses, but I will have to figure out which wire. After that ..... I don't know if I should have a local repair shop look at it or just try replacing the control panel myself?

I have no idea what the local shop charges for diagnostics.
sorry to hear that.. thought for sure it was your ignitor..
control panel is easy to replace..
got to youtube and a few videos on procedure..
 
sorry to hear that.. thought for sure it was your ignitor..
control panel is easy to replace..
got to youtube and a few videos on procedure..

Thanks, I was hoping it was the ignitor. I did find the video about replacing the control panel, is it possible I could blow the new control panel if it is another issue. That is my only worry about doing it myself.
 
Thanks, I was hoping it was the ignitor. I did find the video about replacing the control panel, is it possible I could blow the new control panel if it is another issue. That is my only worry about doing it myself.
that is true..
if your leary about that which i understand, might be time to call out the cavalry...
 
Process of elimination. Igniter. Distribution blower. Auger motor. Check wiring for insulation rubbed off. Control panel. Good luck keep us updated.
 
Fuses are alot cheaper than a panel. Id get some more fuses, and try snd isolate the other possible offenders. Replace panel as a last resort. Jmho
 
just another thought but, did u check the outlet your stove is plugged into?
could be shorting there also..
 
I have seen the combustion blower do this also. If you think about it, The comb. motor starts for a couple seconds when unit is plugged in with knob in off position. I would start there
 
I have seen the combustion blower do this also. If you think about it, The comb. motor starts for a couple seconds when unit is plugged in with knob in off position. I would start there

Ok so I finally got more fuses disconnected all components using wiring diagram as guide. Auger, distribution , combustion - fuses still blow. I even disconnected the remote sensor and probe in the exhaust (forgot the name) fuses blow.

Now I discovered over the past few days that our Nintendo Wii and a small tv are both not working as well suggesting that the loose wire in the box which was causing the noise in the box damaged electrical devices in the house.

The local pellet stove repair person cannot make it here until next Thursday. 125 just for the visit.

It seems likely that it is the control panel. What are the chances I could fry a new one?
 
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