Help... I need a temporary solution!

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Mr. Kelly

Feeling the Heat
Hey there!

I need a temporary and quick solution with my PE Summit door gasket problem. It's loose on the bottom and doesn't pass the dollar bill test. I can't get any silicon sealer here quickly, and nobody has any of it locally.

Is there anything I can use to stabilize this for the next week or so until I can mail order some high temperature Rutland?

Long involved story… (skip to bottom if not interested:)

I feared for my life last night… and my property. My 10-year-old daughter came upstairs about a half an hour after I retired to tell me that the fire in the stove was going nuts, and even with her good training, turning the stove all the way down did not reduce the intensity. I thought she might be exaggerating a bit, but I thought it be prudent to go downstairs and check.

She was absolutely right… good for her... For the first time ever, even with the air control all the way off, my stove was out of control. Mind you, I have forgotten to turn the thing down before in the distant past, and with a full load in there, I have pinned my Condor pipe thermometer, but all I needed to do was turn off the air, and it quickly got under control.

Not this time around, I had to wait there for about 45 minutes for a large quantity of wood to burn itself down within a fireball of flames and heat. It was absolutely beautiful, but very anxiety provoking. I felt fairly confident that it was a matter of the stove getting air in there underneath the door where the rope was loose and not making a proper seal, but I had to cross my fingers a bit on that one.

Thankfully, it did not go past about the 1200 mark on my thermometer, which is about 2/3 of the way to max. Even so, I could not even put my hand on the door handle because of the intense heat. The heat coming off that stove was strongly radiating for about 5 feet away, with the most intense heat I had ever felt coming off of that thing. Needless to say, my glass is now nice and clean! :)

But back to the point… I am hoping there is no other reason for this phenomenon to have occurred. This is the first time it has reached out of control like that upon having the loose gasket. It has been loose for about a week now, with no ill effects. Could there be anything else going on?

I did take out the baffle a few weeks ago and noticed that there was not a rear baffle gasket in there. I contacted the local PE dealer, who said they would look into getting me another one, and they never got back to me. They are an hour and a half away, which makes going in there almost impossible. Any other ways you guys can think of to get PE products?

So… That's my story. Anyone else have anything like that ever happen?

Most importantly, what can I do with this stove other than not have any major fires until I get the gasket cement?

Thoughts? Stories? :)
 
How is the 'feel' on your door latch. Is it snug/tight or loose/easy?

If it is loose feeling at all or not even that snug. You can tighten the latch by striking it with a rubber mallet gently or putting a screwdriver/punch against it and tapping it in ever so slightly. If it's already a good positive feel to the latch, skip this and focus on the gasket. Make sure your door is straight and true and that there is no debris on the gasket or the knife edge on the stove side.
 
How is the 'feel' on your door latch. Is it snug/tight or loose/easy?

If it is loose feeling at all or not even that snug. You can tighten the latch by striking it with a rubber mallet gently or putting a screwdriver/punch against it and tapping it in ever so slightly. If it's already a good positive feel to the latch, skip this and focus on the gasket. Make sure your door is straight and true and that there is no debris on the gasket or the knife edge on the stove side.


Thanks for the thoughts. Everything is tight. The dollar bill test is firm all around, except for at the bottom, where the gasket hangs loose, likely more than an inch of sag. It needs to be reglued… Quickly.
 
Ahh. If the gasket is hanging off certainly re-glue it. I use commercial gasket glue for stove gaskets myself. But I believe others on here use high temp silicone too.

Glue that sucker in place and re-test.
 
Ahh. If the gasket is hanging off certainly re-glue it. I use commercial gasket glue for stove gaskets myself. But I believe others on here use high temp silicone too.

Glue that sucker in place and re-test.


yep… That's exactly what I need to do, but hence the problem. I don't have any glue, and even now, I have a small fire going and it is burning as if my air control is wide open. That leaves me unable to fill the stove at night and keep the place at a reasonable temperature. I need a quick solution other than waiting for stuff to come in the mail. Any other kinds of cement that can be used as a temporary stopgap?
 
You don't have a hardware store near you? most carry the rutland high temp stuff
 
Permatex copper RTV - the automotive stuff?
 
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Thanks for the extra push. None of my local stores had any kind of high temperature sealant that I could find online. Maybe I missed something.

So, I forgot about checking the Lowe's that is a little further away, and sure enough, they have a product that may work out, at least in the short run. It's called Imperial high temperature sealant. Anyone ever seen it? It's rated at 600° F.
 
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I just checked the gasket glue i use is rated to 800f. If that's all you can get I'd give it a try, I bet it works out fine.

I wouldn't run with the gasket hanging loose and a massive air leak. Could lead to bigger problems obviously.
 
I just checked the gasket glue i use is rated to 800f. If that's all you can get I'd give it a try, I bet it works out fine.

I wouldn't run with the gasket hanging loose and a massive air leak. Could lead to bigger problems obviously.

Thanks.

What kind of sealant do you use that is rated to 800 F? The Rutland that I see commonly is only rated to 600 F.

I presume that means I will need to shut the stove down for 24 hours to cure the stuff. Great. What do the poor blokes do that have no back up system? :)
 
Ace prob has Rutland gasket kits to, rope gasket with sealant all in the same pack
 
Permatex copper RTV - the automotive stuff?
Yeah, I think it's rated for 700 or more, for use on exhaust systems. That's what I've used on door gaskets. The door frame is somewhat isolated from the heat by the front of the stove. There is 1000+ degree silicone but I don't think you need it for the door gasket.
 
Ace prob has Rutland gasket kits to, rope gasket with sealant all in the same pack
OEM gasket all the way..has the correct density to meet manufacturer specs.
 
View attachment 217759 Thanks for the extra push. None of my local stores had any kind of high temperature sealant that I could find online. Maybe I missed something.

So, I forgot about checking the Lowe's that is a little further away, and sure enough, they have a product that may work out, at least in the short run. It's called Imperial high temperature sealant. Anyone ever seen it? It's rated at 600° F.
You about burned up your house and family, and your searching "online" ??
Scratching my head here !!

You knew the stove was unsafe with the loose gasket....... You got damn lucky this time...sir..
 
You about burned up your house and family, and your searching "online" ??
Scratching my head here !!

You knew the stove was unsafe with the loose gasket....... You got damn lucky this time...sir..

Thanks for your thought…

Although I would have not known that the stove was unsafe prior to this recent fireball. I had seen that the gasket was coming loose, and was monitoring the situation, but had not encountered any problems up until that point. My fires did not seem to be negatively affected. I would not have known what a leak like that would mean, plus, it seemed like everything was operating fairly normally until last night.

Other than online, and on here, where else would you suggest for me to look?

Not sure I understand your snarkiness.
 
I had seen that the gasket was coming loose
Get the copper silicone at the auto parts store, pull the gasket out a bit at that location and put silicone under it to hold the gasket out further and seal better. Close the door lightly, with a piece of paper between the gasket and the front of the stove to prevent sticking should some silicone squeeze out.
 
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Get the copper silicone at the auto parts store, pull the gasket out a bit at that location and put silicone under it to hold the gasket out further and seal better. Close the door lightly, with a piece of paper between the gasket and the front of the stove to prevent sticking should some silicone squeeze out.

That sounds like a good strategy…

Thank you, Woody!
 
That is a good plan.

I use imperial brand like you linked. But the stuff specifically for gaskets. When eventually you get a new PE gasket it will have adhesive on it. You peel a backing off like a sticker and just stick it on your cleaned up door groove. Clean it well and thoroughly for it to stick well.
 
Red RTV will also work. Some new stoves are coming with black RTV too.
 
Anything behind the gasket will be shielded from burning, anything oozing out from behind the gasket will burn off. You don't need 800 or 1000 degree silicone to get the job done. You're merely paying more to do the same job.
 
Hi all,

I ended up going to Lowe's and getting the Imperial stuff, that is rated at temporary highs of 600°F

Now, I just have to wait for the stove to cool down to be able to do it… And then have to endure having no woodstove for the next 24 hours, as it cures, and I heat 24/7 with wood. UGG!

I will report back after I get the job done and let you know how it goes.
 
I usually get a good seal after letting adhesive set up for an hour. Maybe the silicone you have is different
 
Btw...

What strategy do you guys use to keep the gasket in place until it is tacky enough to be able to close the door to keep it in place?

I was thinking of using grip clamps that I have.