Help... I need a temporary solution!

[sportbikerider78]

Btw...

What strategy do you guys use to keep the gasket in place until it is tacky enough to be able to close the door to keep it in place?

I was thinking of using grip clamps that I have.

Pop the pins on the door. Door comes off. Silicone seal. Grab a scrap piece of plywood and clamp that down onto the gasket face. Not tightly,,,just snug.

 

[Squisher]

Get the copper silicone at the auto parts store, pull the gasket out a bit at that location and put silicone under it to hold the gasket out further and seal better. Close the door lightly, with a piece of paper between the gasket and the front of the stove to prevent sticking should some silicone squeeze out.

Just do this. Close the door to hold it in place.

 

[kennyp2339]

Just do this. Close the door to hold it in place.

wait a few hours and then fire up the stove

 

[jackatc1]

I hope I am not to late, but make sure you clean old silicone out before applying the new.
Old material will be uneven and could torque the door and break the glass.

 

[Mr. Kelly]

I hope I am not to late, but make sure you clean old silicone out before applying the new.
Old material will be uneven and could torque the door and break the glass.

All great thoughts and ideas. Thank you everybody!

Of course, I could certainly search all of this stuff, but it is fun to hear from you guys.

Lastly… Small bead of caulking, or wide and possibly even doubled? My rope is reportedly 7/8 of an inch. Maybe about a 3/8 inch bead?

 

[Chas0218]

Thanks.

What kind of sealant do you use that is rated to 800 F? The Rutland that I see commonly is only rated to 600 F.

I presume that means I will need to shut the stove down for 24 hours to cure the stuff. Great. What do the poor blokes do that have no back up system?

You can get this stuff from any auto supply store and is reated to 650* just not black.
https://www.permatex.com/products/g...s/permatex-high-temp-red-rtv-silicone-gasket/

 

[Woody Stover]

Of course, I could certainly search all of this stuff, but it is fun to hear from you guys.

And a lot less work. Poring through the staggering number of posts here is a daunting task, even for a slacker like me who doesn't have a real job.

You can get this stuff from any auto supply store and is reated to 650* just not black.

The copper is rated to 700 intermittent.. https://www.permatex.com/products/g...aximum-temperature-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker/

 

[Mr. Kelly]

Suck...

Gluing the rope back in was pretty much a breeze.

It now doesn't pass the dollar bill test. The bill is pretty tight all along the top and the top half of each side, but at the bottom where I did the gluing, the bill slides right through with a bit of drag. Not sure it is any better now with the thing glued back in than it was before.

It's going to be a huge pain in the arse to find another PE rope, and I have to undo what I just did. How annoying.

Where will be the easiest place for me to get an OEM 7/8 of an inch PE rope? My local dealer has already failed me once, and they are an hour and a half away. Is there a national retail portal that we can go through? Getting stuff for PE stoves seems to be quite painful. They need to seriously shore up their distribution chain.

 

[begreen]

Suck...

Gluing the rope back in was pretty much a breeze.

It now doesn't pass the dollar bill test. The bill is pretty tight all along the top and the top half of each side, but at the bottom where I did the gluing, the bill slides right through with a bit of drag. Not sure it is any better now with the thing glued back in than it was before.

It's going to be a huge pain in the arse to find another PE rope, and I have to undo what I just did. How annoying.

Where will be the easiest place for me to get an OEM 7/8 of an inch PE rope? My local dealer has already failed me once, and they are an hour and a half away. Is there a national retail portal that we can go through? Getting stuff for PE stoves seems to be quite painful. They need to seriously shore up their distribution chain.

Yes, you can order through www.chimneysweeponline.com

 

[Woody Stover]

It's going to be a huge pain in the arse to find another PE rope, and I have to undo what I just did. How annoying.

Welcome to the world of wood heat. Yes, there are times you will get annoyed, but you'll learn to view these as valuable opportunities to build character.

 

[Mr. Kelly]

Thanks everyone… I really appreciate the thoughts and ideas.

Here's where I am at...

I had my first fire after the repair last night. The stove seems to be operating within the same parameters that it did before the rope started to come on down at the bottom, meaning… It seems to be operating normally.

My stove has less than ideal draft, likely because of sharp turns in the pipe on the inside, and the long run outside. It doesn't draft particularly well by design, I believe… So if I turn the air entirely off, under almost any circumstances, it almost completely kills the fire, which I find I almost never need to do.

So… I think I am going to attempt to sit on this for awhile and not change the rope. In other words, if it ain't broke, why fix it? I will keep an eye it for the next while, which I typically do anyway… and see how it goes.

Now… If you think I'm being a bumbling idiot (which you may already… , please feel free to convey that… I will consider your opinions on it.

 

[edyit]

if it works as is run it till the end of the season, then when warm weather hits pull off the door, clean out the channel really well and replace it with a new gasket and you'll know you're good to go for next season.

 

[Mr. Kelly]

if it works as is run it till the end of the season, then when warm weather hits pull off the door, clean out the channel really well and replace it with a new gasket and you'll know you're good to go for next season.

That's a very good idea. Thank you…

Knowing me to be the lazy underachiever that I am… however, I may end up running this thing until the top section of the rope starts to fall off… and then be forced to change it! That section seems pretty solid right now, though.

 

[Hogwildz]

You only want a slight drag with this door seal system. If you can't wiggle the bill back and forth with ease, you're good to go.
Don't forget, the latch is adjustable by simply tapping the top of catch mounted on the stove face in. Go easy, it doesn't take much to adjust and get tight. You don't want these doors too tight, or you will prematurely wear the cast seat area on the door down, and the latch will get sloppy loose.

 

[Mr. Kelly]

You only want a slight drag with this door seal system. If you can't wiggle the bill back and forth with ease, you're good to go.
Don't forget, the latch is adjustable by simply tapping the top of catch mounted on the stove face in. Go easy, it doesn't take much to adjust and get tight. You don't want these doors too tight, or you will prematurely wear the cast seat area on the door down, and the latch will get sloppy loose.

Thanks, Hogs...

There is not a ton of drag with the dollar bill test… just a bit of friction. It would probably be better if I replaced the rope, but as previously mentioned, it seems to work adequately as it is. Maybe next summer…

BTW I have been reading your posts from years ago about this very topic. Thanks for all the posts you do and the help that you offer! It is appreciated!

Did you eventually find out whether this was indeed a 7/8 inch rope, and flat? That would be my guess. My stove is probably about 6-7 years old.

 

[begreen]

Thanks everyone… I really appreciate the thoughts and ideas.

Here's where I am at...

I had my first fire after the repair last night. The stove seems to be operating within the same parameters that it did before the rope started to come on down at the bottom, meaning… It seems to be operating normally.

My stove has less than ideal draft, likely because of sharp turns in the pipe on the inside, and the long run outside. It doesn't draft particularly well by design, I believe… So if I turn the air entirely off, under almost any circumstances, it almost completely kills the fire, which I find I almost never need to do.

So… I think I am going to attempt to sit on this for awhile and not change the rope. In other words, if it ain't broke, why fix it? I will keep an eye it for the next while, which I typically do anyway… and see how it goes.

Now… If you think I'm being a bumbling idiot (which you may already… , please feel free to convey that… I will consider your opinions on it.

A little bit of drag on the dollar bill is all right. If it is burning normally and under control then you should be ok in waiting for the gasket replacement. I'd go ahead and order an OEM gasket just to have it on hand in case it's needed.

 

[Hogwildz]

The Summit is indeed a 7/8" semi flat graphite impregnated semi dense gasket. I have fairly extensive experience with these stoves, and the gasket in particular. Best bet is the OEM gasket from a dealer. Tom at chimneysweepsonline can hook you up.

All I can say is, if it works, don't fix it. These are made to be adjusted, so go that route prior to replacing the gasket. How old is the stove? Gasket ever been replaced?

I can't stress enough, you def do not want an overtight door, as the first thing it does is wear the pivot area where the latch rotates on the cast door. I know this first hand. This system does not need much pressure to make a good seal with this knife edge system and gasket combo.

One sure way to tell if the door has been sealing is look at the gasket and there should be at minimal, at least a minor indentation from the knife edge surface in the gasket. This tells you the seal is achieved.
Again, as long as the bill doesn't easily wiggle or slide side to side with the door closed, your good to go.

I was new at this back in 2006, and had some really fine Summit owners help me out, and share much knowledge with me. I am merely paying it forward.