Hi, My name is Eric and im new. I have been researching all over the net and here. I can't make up my mind lol. I plan on building a polar house that consists of a pole barn style shop/ house and have something thats not real expensive but nice to live in. Ive been cutting and splitting wood for about 10 years ( im 25 now) I have a dolmar 7900 chain saw that has PLENTY of ass. I have a ram splitter log splitter which is this exact same model that i went in halfs with my dad as he has a wood insert in the house and a daka stove in the barn http://www.ramsplitter.com/30 Ton Extreme.htm I want something effiecent as I don't want to split my ass off every year. I was looking at a Central boiler but 3 guys i know have them and they eat wood like crazy. I really like the yukon eagle wood/coal/lp furnace but don't know if it will have good burn rates cause i can't find any info from here about them. I like the central boiler gassification sytem and would like a OWB so the mess is outside. I would like to have the option to burn coal as we have a dump trailer we get coal with every other year. I really don't know much about any other source, kind of wood boiler/stove. I would like long fill up times as i am a mechanic and work long hours so i couldn't tend to it every 6 hours like a big inside insert. Any and all advice will be app. Thanks, Eric
Help me choose my OWB or wood/ coal furnace for my house
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webbie
Seasoned Moderator
Eric,
How big is the area you need to heat?
Will you be using hot air or hot water heat as the delivery system? Hot water can be turned into hot air, but not the other way around.
You are correct about a standard OWB without enhanced combustion eating a lot of wood. But many OWB companies have started releasing their updated EPA models, which are more efficient.
There are other factors you should consider - such as whether you want the unit to be outside and have to load in the cold weather. Or, you want it inside...in which case you need a chimney of some sort.
The answer as to the proper units to consider will become more evident after you answer those questions.
How big is the area you need to heat?
Will you be using hot air or hot water heat as the delivery system? Hot water can be turned into hot air, but not the other way around.
You are correct about a standard OWB without enhanced combustion eating a lot of wood. But many OWB companies have started releasing their updated EPA models, which are more efficient.
There are other factors you should consider - such as whether you want the unit to be outside and have to load in the cold weather. Or, you want it inside...in which case you need a chimney of some sort.
The answer as to the proper units to consider will become more evident after you answer those questions.
webbie
Seasoned Moderator
For outdoor hot water heat you might try one of many of the new EPA OWB's.
These range from the central boiler to the econoburn to the portage and main and many more.
Just make sure the unit uses that downdraft and fan forced method and has an EPA sticker. This means approx. 2X or more the efficiency of the old fashioned OWB.
Examples
http://www.alternativefuelboilers.com/products.htm
http://www.centralboiler.com/e-classic.html
http://www.portageandmainboilers.com/gasification_pages/g-optimizer250.html
In terms of size, this somewhat depends on the insulation factor, ceiling height and other such matters. If it were me, I'd have a pro do a "heat loss calc" on the design so that you know how much heat it is likely to use in most weather. Then you can decide the size which would suit you best.....and calc burn time, etc.
These range from the central boiler to the econoburn to the portage and main and many more.
Just make sure the unit uses that downdraft and fan forced method and has an EPA sticker. This means approx. 2X or more the efficiency of the old fashioned OWB.
Examples
http://www.alternativefuelboilers.com/products.htm
http://www.centralboiler.com/e-classic.html
http://www.portageandmainboilers.com/gasification_pages/g-optimizer250.html
In terms of size, this somewhat depends on the insulation factor, ceiling height and other such matters. If it were me, I'd have a pro do a "heat loss calc" on the design so that you know how much heat it is likely to use in most weather. Then you can decide the size which would suit you best.....and calc burn time, etc.
Im heating 3500 sqft with a portage & main optimizer 250 it works great ! I agree, keep the mess and fire outside.
I used 9 cord last year with my portage & main gasser . That was keeping house and garage at 75 degrees.
flyingcow
Minister of Fire
Approx 3 yrs ago, maybe 4 the E-classic bolier rep told me to figure for every 100 gals of oil= 1 cord of well seasoned wood.
A true gasser figure 1 cord of wood= 150 gals of oil, sometimes closer to 175 gals. This has been my experience with my Tarm. My unit is in an unattached garage. I like it located there. Also i pile my wood up on pallets and move around with my FEL.
A true gasser figure 1 cord of wood= 150 gals of oil, sometimes closer to 175 gals. This has been my experience with my Tarm. My unit is in an unattached garage. I like it located there. Also i pile my wood up on pallets and move around with my FEL.
keep it simple every post i read is like let me have the most electric motors turning turbines fans belts ,1000 gal storage tanks .the price of all this equipment not counting installation then labor is un real.when i was looking for boilers i narrowed it down to d.s.machine boiler ,i use 8 cords wood to heat 3500 sf no problem you can intertwine hot water storage tanh no problem,sealed unit pressurized so no internal rust price is great .can get every part from local plumbing supply house,thickness of plate steel is around half inch they weigh like close to 1500 pounds.i have videos on you tube under bodyshop18336 this winter i will make many more a picture tells a thousand words
I have a 2 yr old central OWB. 400 gallon capacity...it is not their latest most efficient unit/gasification. That said it does burn wood in qty., however my source is free, I went thru 10 cord last winter, but most in large logs so I dont split much anymore. Maybe 1 cord split to use for starting up the fires after a long burn, I go 12 hr burns in the dead of winter at -30 with winds on the edge of a lake....lots of glass....I have radiant infloor in pex...very efficient. Longer burn times when not so cold, and in the shoulder season I stoke only 1 every day or 2. I never fill it either, just have learned the best way to burn and the right qty. If I fill mine right up it will burn for 3 days in the middle of winter.
Anyways for me, in a very rural setting with free wood, I like my Central so far....if it was more efficient and used less wood like the new gasification unit is supposed to, that would just be a bonus.
Having the boiler outside beside my wood source so I can haul logs with my tractor right to the boiler saves a ton of handling...not to mention the mess etc...I clean it all up with the tractor. My OWB has changed my wife and I 's lifestyle radically freeing up lots more time for other things and more freedom less worry....was cheaper for insurance as ours is situated 150 away, (sits on a cliff 95' above the elevation of our house).
Good luck
Mike
Anyways for me, in a very rural setting with free wood, I like my Central so far....if it was more efficient and used less wood like the new gasification unit is supposed to, that would just be a bonus.
Having the boiler outside beside my wood source so I can haul logs with my tractor right to the boiler saves a ton of handling...not to mention the mess etc...I clean it all up with the tractor. My OWB has changed my wife and I 's lifestyle radically freeing up lots more time for other things and more freedom less worry....was cheaper for insurance as ours is situated 150 away, (sits on a cliff 95' above the elevation of our house).
Good luck
Mike
711mhw
Feeling the Heat
Hey Eric,
I built a bldg. that sounds similar to your wants. It's really a garage with an attached house rather than the reverse. 40X80 bldg (looks like a pole bldg) with the "barn" metal exterior, but with a full exterior poured concrete frost wall and 16"oc stud walls that are 16' tall. This is both expensive and important for insulating. I have radiant in slab heat and TONS of ridgid & FG insulation in the walls (R-30+ ish), under the slab (R-12) or so (2" Dow) and a bunch in the ceiling. I have a "gasser" boiler that I am very happy with and it does a real nice job for me. It is an "indoor" unit and after heating only 1 season with it, I'd have it no other way (vs. owb) Rather than sacrifice precious shop space and there is no extra living space, I attached a purpose built room for the boiler, insulated the same as the rest of the bldg. I am a happy camper. If you are interested in coal, check out the Coalgun by AHS in PA. I'm trying to NOT be an advertisement here but you asked. I think that it is a gasser/coal gun but Im' not sure if coal "gasses" off like wood, I'm no scientist here. One big thing that I'm trying to say here is like others said, get a good heat load calcs from someone and I'd say go as far as having a "pro" do the design work for you. In my build I didn't know squat about radiant heating or wood boilers and had the sys. designed for me. All I did was tell him what I wanted and how it was going to be built and insulated (heat loads) For instance my designer saved me from buying the DHW coil and I still have "free" hot water for dom. use (that's another story for later) But another byproduct of using this radiant design "pro" was that he provided full drawings of the complete system and that enabled me to do the complete installation my self. I'm sure that saved me more than his fees and gave me a well thought out and comfortable and smart heating sys. I'm getting off point here but... insulate air seal and plan your project! Another informative forum you might check out at least for hydronic/radiant heating and general energy saving stuff is greenbuildingtalk.com. Good luck man, and do it right the first time.
I built a bldg. that sounds similar to your wants. It's really a garage with an attached house rather than the reverse. 40X80 bldg (looks like a pole bldg) with the "barn" metal exterior, but with a full exterior poured concrete frost wall and 16"oc stud walls that are 16' tall. This is both expensive and important for insulating. I have radiant in slab heat and TONS of ridgid & FG insulation in the walls (R-30+ ish), under the slab (R-12) or so (2" Dow) and a bunch in the ceiling. I have a "gasser" boiler that I am very happy with and it does a real nice job for me. It is an "indoor" unit and after heating only 1 season with it, I'd have it no other way (vs. owb) Rather than sacrifice precious shop space and there is no extra living space, I attached a purpose built room for the boiler, insulated the same as the rest of the bldg. I am a happy camper. If you are interested in coal, check out the Coalgun by AHS in PA. I'm trying to NOT be an advertisement here but you asked. I think that it is a gasser/coal gun but Im' not sure if coal "gasses" off like wood, I'm no scientist here. One big thing that I'm trying to say here is like others said, get a good heat load calcs from someone and I'd say go as far as having a "pro" do the design work for you. In my build I didn't know squat about radiant heating or wood boilers and had the sys. designed for me. All I did was tell him what I wanted and how it was going to be built and insulated (heat loads) For instance my designer saved me from buying the DHW coil and I still have "free" hot water for dom. use (that's another story for later) But another byproduct of using this radiant design "pro" was that he provided full drawings of the complete system and that enabled me to do the complete installation my self. I'm sure that saved me more than his fees and gave me a well thought out and comfortable and smart heating sys. I'm getting off point here but... insulate air seal and plan your project! Another informative forum you might check out at least for hydronic/radiant heating and general energy saving stuff is greenbuildingtalk.com. Good luck man, and do it right the first time.
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