As you can see on the pix showing the last section that is attached to the square box at the ceiling. It is a rap around with a pinch bolt then 4 sheetmetal screws and rivets which hold the piece to the box.A sticker on this section says Simpson type L low temp venting system. Each section from the stove to the ceiling is double wall, 9 1/4" outer with 8" inner.
Help me ID this stovepipe
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![[Hearth.com] Help me ID this stovepipe](/talk/data/attachments/4/4481-78c2b4767c65cab739e8d22649817ad2.jpg?hash=OgFpgIHbFh)
I'm guessing, but it looks like some sort of cinch collar which is around a telescoping length of double wall stovepipe. Just a guess though!
Hi Corie, By pulling apart the wrap as much as I can I can see the next lower outer pipe runs about half way up into the wrap and the inner pipe goes all the way up to the box. From there on up I have an outer pipe that is about 11" in diameter galvanized steel. I'm guessing it is triple wall.
Dura vent (simpson) was one of the first manufacturers of triple wall class A - or at least the most popular for wood burning appliances. The internal pipe is something that was not "generic" double wall, but usually sold as part of a particular stove or system to allow closer clearances.
Type L today (i think) is for pellet vent and certain lower temp oil appliances. It was pretty much unheard of at the time (the time your chimney dates back to!).
So this is a connector pipe which can be removed and replaced. It is the stuff from the box upward that is regular class A and is supported by the box.
Type L today (i think) is for pellet vent and certain lower temp oil appliances. It was pretty much unheard of at the time (the time your chimney dates back to!).
So this is a connector pipe which can be removed and replaced. It is the stuff from the box upward that is regular class A and is supported by the box.
Hi Craig, I imagine this is late 70s. I haven't had any Problems with this since I bought this house 3 1/2 years ago. I cleaned the pipe last week for the first time and only got about a coffee can full after running the bore brush down it 7 times. I burn mostly fir and have always noticed how little smoke I have coming out the top compared to my neighbor's stovepipes. In talking to stove dealers about getting a modern stove I'm getting a wide range of opinions from I need a whole new stove pipe systems to all I need is a 6" and a 8x6 reducer. roben.
If the chimney is in excellent shape (inner and outer liners from the box above), then yes - an 8 to 6 reducer will do the job. The caveats are:
1. That chimney was tested to a slightly lower temp standard than today.....but millions are in use safely.]
2. The chimney is ending the period of it's "design life" (20 to 30 years), so replacing it will probably have to be done within 5-10 years at the longest.
If you do use this chimney, a critical part is where you hook the stove pipe or adapter to the ceiling box. As I remember, the flange which is the actual inner wall of the Dura chimney is recessed an inch or so up in the box - and you needed a piece of Dura pipe - which had a flanged upper end, to go around it. You might still be able to get this pipe. My point is that this connection must be tight and mechanically fastened (screw or rivet) if possible.
1. That chimney was tested to a slightly lower temp standard than today.....but millions are in use safely.]
2. The chimney is ending the period of it's "design life" (20 to 30 years), so replacing it will probably have to be done within 5-10 years at the longest.
If you do use this chimney, a critical part is where you hook the stove pipe or adapter to the ceiling box. As I remember, the flange which is the actual inner wall of the Dura chimney is recessed an inch or so up in the box - and you needed a piece of Dura pipe - which had a flanged upper end, to go around it. You might still be able to get this pipe. My point is that this connection must be tight and mechanically fastened (screw or rivet) if possible.
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