Help me out of this pickle

[Diy]

Hi all,

The wall my fireplace is/was on was all brick so the fireplace opening was flush with the wall. We decided to do some updating and built a Sheetrock wall over the brick wall using a 2x4 frame ( this part of the job is complete). We purchased a mantle and cultured stone to complete the job today. When I started looking at the fireplace today I thought of an issue. I somehow need to build the fireplace out so the face of the fireplace is flush with the Sheetrock. Basically I need about 3 inches plus the one inch or stone. Any ideas?

 

[wooduser]

<<1. The National Fire Code requires all combustible material to be at least 6 inchesfrom the opening of the firebox. For every 1/8 inch of protruding combustible material, you must account for an additional inch of clearance.May 22, 2017


You have to be cautious about any combustibloe materials extending in front of the fireplace opening.

Radiant heat or warm air can hit those combustibles and create a fire hazard.

I used to find gas fireplaces with inadequate clearances from time to time. Most fireplaces are dreadfully inefficient, but gas fireplaces often have quite warm air coming directly off the top of the fireplace and exposing mantles and such to hot air.

So you should consider needed clearances carefully.

 

[Rickb]

Im sure some of the guys that have better info then me will post but it looks like you just put a bunch of combustible things right around the mouth a fire.........

 

[Rickb]

Seems like the correct way to do this would have been with metal 2x4's and micor/durarock, but you would have need to build out the face of the fireplace that is going to be showing first.

 

[Diy]

I can put aluminum flashing on all the 2x4s around the fireplace. But my question is how do I build out the current fireplace?

 

[begreen]

I can put aluminum flashing on all the 2x4s around the fireplace. But my question is how do I build out the current fireplace?

Aluminum is a good conductor of heat. It will do little to nothing to protect the wood from pyrolysis. If there is a 3.5" thick 2x4 behind the drywall then it needs to be 6" + 28" or 34" away from the opening.

 

[Diy]

You’re right. That’s why I’m asking this blog for solutions. Can anyone please provide a solution?

 

[Diy]

Could I build out the firebox?

 

[begreen]

This may take some undoing of part of the new wall. Do you have a before picture? A picture of the framing before the drywall went up?

 

[Diy]

This may take some undoing of part of the new wall. Do you have a before picture? A picture of the framing before the drywall went up?

I don’t. Here is a photo before the wall was built. The 2x4 is that runs across the top of the fireplace is 15 inches above the lip of the fireplace opening.

 

[Diy]

Here is the before photo.

 

[VirginiaIron]

You’re right. That’s why I’m asking this blog for solutions. Can anyone please provide a solution?

Solutions?
Have you determined if the fireplace and chimney were safe to use PRIOR to your modification?
#1. Consult a licensed AND bonded contractor/engineer/designer to come up with a safe design that incorporates the required minimal clearances for fireplaces and/or any additional clearances for your desired intentions..
#2. If the fireplace and chimney are currently safe to use, remove your modifications to bring the fireplace back to its original condition before you started the mod.
#3. If either the fireplace or chimney are not safe to use as originally intended, but remain structurally sound, block off the chimney permenantly so the fireplace and/or chimney cannot be used for anything but decoration and proceed with your mods. Keeping in mind that some jurisdictions may require signage that indicates the fireplace/chimney have been modified or closed off.
#4. Remove everything and have a competent mason build you what you want.

 

[Diy]

Solutions?
Have you determined if the fireplace and chimney were safe to use PRIOR to your modification?
#1. Consult a licensed AND bonded contractor/engineer/designer to come up with a safe design that incorporates the required minimal clearances for fireplaces and/or any additional clearances for your desired intentions..
#2. If the fireplace and chimney are currently safe to use, remove your modifications to bring the fireplace back to its original condition before you started the mod.
#3. If either the fireplace or chimney are not safe to use as originally intended, but remain structurally sound, block off the chimney permenantly so the fireplace and/or chimney cannot be used for anything but decoration and proceed with your mods. Keeping in mind that some jurisdictions may require signage that indicates the fireplace/chimney have been modified or closed off.
#4. Remove everything and have a competent mason build you what you want.

I understand I can get a engineer or contractor that’s not my question. I’m more asking, has anyone ever increase the depth of their fireplace by building it out. For example adding a layer of brick to bring it flush with the wall. As a result that would bring it to code.

 

[Diy]

This is the design I am going for so I need to create a flush fireplace.

 

[VirginiaIron]

R

Here is the before photo.

That wall is huge, and imo is rather imposing to the size of your mantle. It might be more impressive if you enlarge the scale of the mantle to balance the wall, keeping the mantle at safe clearances from the fireplace, then parge and paint that masonry wall to match the mantle.

 

[VirginiaIron]

I understand I can get a engineer or contractor that’s not my question. I’m more asking, has anyone ever increase the depth of their fireplace by building it out. For example adding a layer of brick to bring it flush with the wall. As a result that would bring it to code.

I understand, and the plain solution is to incorporate your mod OR abandoned it to maintain clearances and code. Even if you extend the bricks to the front, no one knows how close the combustibles are behind the present masonry facade. We can presume the current facade did meet the required minimal clearance when built but if you extend the masonry, the finished product IMPLIES to the user the fireplace opening meets the required clearance- which is unknown and requires a degree of invasive or destructive exploration.

 

[begreen]

Here is the before photo.

Thanks, that's helpful. Can you return the mantel? I agree that a larger mantel would look better given the scale of the wall. And it looks like it will be needed to honor clearances.

One option is to cut back the sheetrock and reframe the opening at the proper clearance dimension.Then install the new larger mantel with a facia board covering the built out framing.

It's a shame that the wall was built out with 2x4s, that was not necessary just to cover the brick with sheetrock. The sheetrock could have been put right over the brick. But now that is what you have. With a new mantel one option would be to have the mantel properly sized for clearances from the fireplace opening, then cut out existing drywall around the fireplace and reframe so that the new mantel sits against the brick with the sheetrock coming right up against it.

 

[Ludlow]

3" block in front with your tile on that. Cant have any gap at lintel. Assuming you have bearing for it on hearth. Assuming the rest is compliant of course.

 

[Diy]

3" block in front with your tile on that. Cant have any gap at lintel. Assuming you have bearing for it on hearth. Assuming the rest is compliant of course.

Ludlow can you please explain further?

 

[KennyK]

I can imagine how frustrating it must be to do a bunch of work and then come here to find out it might not be safe. We all make mistakes, and some end up costing us time, money and frustration to fix. One thing to keep in mind is that being able to sleep soundly at night knowing you have done things in a safe manner is worth all the time, money and frustration it takes to fix it right. You’ll feel better in the long run, and people here will help you figure it out. Just offering some moral support! Good luck!

 

[Diy]

I can imagine how frustrating it must be to do a bunch of work and then come here to find out it might not be safe. We all make mistakes, and some end up costing us time, money and frustration to fix. One thing to keep in mind is that being able to sleep soundly at night knowing you have done things in a safe manner is worth all the time, money and frustration it takes to fix it right. You’ll feel better in the long run, and people here will help you figure it out. Just offering some moral support! Good luck!

So far, besides 1 or 2 responses it seems like people are more interested in failure than solutions. IMO a solution would be to have an insert installed to be flush with the new wall or build brick out to be flush with the new wall. All the responses have just reafirmd the problem with no solution.

 

[Bad LP]

I'm unaware of being able to pad out an opening with anything other than stone. Now if a gas or wood insert is being installed then proper clearance to combustibles per the manufacturer instruction is the only way out. Then of course you have the local building inspector that needs to sign off.

We installed a nice gas insert in a spec house a few years ago. I'll admit to being rather surprised on just how hot the Durarock got.

 

[Diy]

I'm unaware of being able to pad out an opening with anything other than stone. Now if a gas or wood insert is being installed then proper clearance to combustibles per the manufacturer instruction is the only way out. Then of course you have the local building inspector that needs to sign off.

We installed a nice gas insert in a spec house a few years ago. I'll admit to being rather surprised on just how hot the Durarock got.

Do you think the best solution is to pad out the fireplace with stone? That’s what I was thinking of doing.

 

[bholler]

Do you think the best solution is to pad out the fireplace with stone? That’s what I was thinking of doing.

By looking at it it seems you would have enough space to build out the face and have proper clearances.

 

[jetsam]

You are going to need to extend that mantel, though, or its decorative leg mouldings will be nowhere near it. Maybe just screw a longer 1x10 to the top of the 1x8. You could extend the legs with plinth blocks bottom and top (and in the middle if needed). (Or return it and get a bigger one.)